Equipment to buy for jumpstarting a PiP

As to your question about why the car wouldn't take charge from the EVSE cable, it's because the 12V was too dead for the car's computers to know it had been plugged in. The HV charger is in the car and does a sort of hand shaking protocol with the EVSE cable and then charging begins, controlled and monitored by the charger inside the car.

So it's "just" a matter of determining why your 12V went dead.

 

Congrats on find a way to get to the next level of your fix.
As you are referring above, what do you mean by "Terminals under the hood" Vs "Exposing the battery inside the trunk" ?

On the other hand, there are few non-visible possibilities of power suckers in the vehicle, one such is attached OBD2 device, Dashcam etc, they may not show some light but they keep draining. These MUST NOT be your case as you got it off from a DEALER. These COULD BE your case since you bought a used vehicle.

Also if you want to proceed with the so called Phantom test, I got a multi meter if you want to borrow

If you PERSONALLY are going to replace the 12v battery, try your luck with Costco first for a reliable battery. But since you have just got it off the dealer, pretty much the dealer needs to get this replaced.

 

I don't know the system Jerry but I was thinking the same thing.

Does your car show it is charging the 12 Volt battery now that you have it in the garage and running when it is plugged in?

 

You cannot run it when it is plugged in. Only way to test that I can think of now, is to measure the 12V battery terminals with a multimeter while charging the HV battery. If it's up around 14V, then it's charging.

I haven't checked it and I don't see a direct reference in the OM, but there is this from the manual. It's the last item in the bullet list.
■ Charging time may increase

In the following situations, charging time may become longer than normal:

●In very hot or very cold temperatures.

●The vehicle is consuming a lot of electricity, for example, when the head- lights or emergency flashers switch is on.

●There is a power outage during charging.

●There is an interruption in the electrical supply.

●There is a drop in the voltage of your panel’s AC supply.

●The charge in the 12-volt battery is low, for example due to the vehicle being left unused for a long period of time.

 

I believe you have 3 days to make a scene...I mean...give the Dealership the chance to make things right after the purchase in CA. A Prius is notorious for needing a jump at the Dealership quite often after sitting around and people just doing the look-e-lu. Especially a used Prius. They see it all the time and should be willing to fix you up with a replacement 12VDC to keep the sale...I mean...keep you happy.

 

A battery retailer (Pep Boys for example) should have a pro quality electronic battery tester, be willing to test it for you gratis, give you a printout. It's cold cranking amps should be more than spec, and voltage 12.6 or better.

 

Not sure whether this helps, but FWIW, when our Gen-2’s 12V gradually discharged over time to dead, I found that I was unable to jumpstart it, but I was able to charge it back up with an external battery charger. i didn’t have time to diagnose why, but charging with a battery charger was fine for me.

Typed by Mr88cet’s dancing thumbs

 

This video will explain everything about your 12V battery in your Prius. It is a must watch for new and some old owners.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M53Hbh5wpRQ

 

@Mayank Jain that JNC660 Jump Pack you mentioned, that's what I have, permanently ensconced in the hatch sub-floor tray. I've never needed it for ours yet, knock-on-wood. The newer ones have the built-in automatic charger which is handy. You can set up with Clore to email you a charge reminder every 90 days. Monthly or every 45 days might be better.

Still, I regard the jump pack purely as a method to get the car started, on your way to get a replacement, or help.

 

Is there a way to select (or limit) the maximum current delivered? I'm asking because on a Prime the 12-volt battery is only supposed to be slow charged (~5 A).

 

The JNC660 is a jump starter, not a charger, so I don't think the 5 amp limit is relevant. Totally candid: I'm not sure though.

I charge with a CTEK 4.3 (4.3 max amps) fwiw.

 

Got it. Thanks for the clarification.

 

I always understood jumping and charging the 12V battery to be different but I see what you mean.

 

Again, on our gen-2, charging with a trickle charger worked for me, FWIW. Not clear why jumpstarting didn’t.

So, it sounds like it’s pretty much a miniature version of a traditional car battery. Curious that a Toyota service advisor once described it to me as more like a dry-cell battery.

Typed by Mr88cet’s dancing thumbs

 

@Mendel Leisk have you used anything as a memory retainer when replacing the 12 v battery? I thought about a jump pack but some documentation seems to indicate they only provide 12 volts for 30 seconds.
My son, with his 2015 Prius v is trying to plan ahead. I remember on his 2005 Prius he replaced the battery as a preventative measure. He thinks the Prius v needs to keep its engine settings. Forget about convincing him otherwise, BTW.

 

Maintaining car memory is no big deal, with one of these you do it with a 9 Volt battery. Through an active power port.


I looked at my wiring diagram and I think I am wrong about using a power port to supply power while changing the battery. It looks like both are only active in the acc or run mode. At least for my wiring diagrams I have for a 2016 Prius

I think I would use the jump start tab in the main fuse box under the hood.