Gen 2 Epic Failure--Dealer Perplexed--Need Real Help

I was thinking he could check the fuse himself. And if it is blown what then? He mentioned a water problem in the past.

 

This link should help : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Prius%20Service%20Manuals%202004/%E4%BF%AE%E7%90%86%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C/04pruisr/21/20zvj/w140001.pdf

 

Ok, back to my problem. I had just driven to work via interstate with NO issues. After about an hour being parked I hopped in my trusty Prius and pull out in traffic (so I punched it--as much as a Prius can go) and I felt a buck and then immediate deceleration. I did not feel or hear the combustion engine any more. The dash lit up like the Vegas Strip but I was not excited like I was on the strip, more like feeling I just lost my pot of money at the craps table! Ouch. So, as I manoeuvred from center lane to side of the road the car maxed at 30mph and I literally watched the battery go down a bar every 20-30 seconds. There were 2 bars left when I turned if off and then I waited about 30 seconds and tried to restart to see what would happen and if engine would crank or attempt to...no luck. Car would not move and all lights were on. Called a AAA tow truck and had an entertaining ride to the Toyota dealer. That was over 1 week ago...


Ok, when I read this, I imagine being at a stop and then pulling into traffic with the accelerator floored. (That's 170+ amps initial peak, with possible a few seconds of 100+ amps). Very quickly, the buck and decel occur and he immediately starts moving to the shoulder of the road. Something certainly happened in the HV system.

He noticed the battery indicator drop a bar every 20-30 seconds. This had to have been while on the side of the road, NOT while getting there. I've had a handful of times I've needed to get to the side of the road, and although it may seem like it takes forever, it usually only takes about 10 seconds. We can assume it must have dropped at least two bars while he was watching. When it got to 2 purple bars, he turned off the car.

Although it may be another portion of the control components in the HV battery that failed, a disconnect / fuse is pretty easy to check.

Looking back through the posts and looked at his dealer code sheet. Would stink if it was the inverter that failed. That's a bit more involved than any of the small parts in the HV battery.

Has anyone ever seen what happens if you pull the disconnect while the car is on or in 'Ready' ?
Clarification: I have not done this or seen it done, just curious if anyone has ever done it accidentally. Curious about what codes/alarm lights would pop up.

 

I own a pixel phone.

Ive no idea why it says that.

You can likely do most of it with a 12v tester, luke 12$.

Pixel ?

 

This is a basic volt, ohm, amp multimeter.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077M3CRYB/ref=s9_acsd_newrz_hd_bw_b13uEJ_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=H8PEYBHJ10EH8Y7N0YDP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=84c2e83e-b346-577e-8d79-cc28c0c31dc4&pf_rd_i=15707471

 

Harbor Freight Tools has a decent VOM for less than $25 and you don't have to wait for it.

 

HF also has a free VOM (no need to argue on the quality) if you walk into the store : Harbor Freight Tools Coupon Database - Free coupons, 25 percent off coupons, 20 percent off coupons, No Purchase Required coupons, toolbox coupons

 

Not much reason not to own one at these prices.

 

I'm going to sound like a real battery anode here.

Checking a fuse and a multi meter are a very basic electrical concept and tool.

The Prius traction battery contains high voltage capable of killing.

Aaron, you do not seem to have the background needed to safely work on high voltage systems.

 

Too bad there wasn't a local club near you.
Usually with some guidance, especially in person it is a bit easier to learn some of the Prius repairs.

 

Actually, you sound like a voice of reason given the questions asked by the OP. It is time for him to realize that he needs professional help for his car, or else he can risk getting zapped.

The problem appears to be in the control electronics within the high voltage battery case based upon the fault code, and the OP saying that a water leak in the vicinity of the battery was a prior issue. Hence a careful examination of those components would probably result in locating a failed relay, corrosion in the wiring, or a similar finding. But this assumes you know what to look for and how to do that, using a multimeter as a tool.

 

You missed one word.

 

My phone number is still the same.
Feel free to call.

 

Any update on this? Curious minds want to know.