Gen 2 Epic Failure--Dealer Perplexed--Need Real Help

Aaron K,
If you give me a call we can talk through a few things. You've really been through the wringer on this one.
My phone number is in my signature.

 

As it is your thread, this is exactly the right way to retrieve it from the hijackers and bring it back on topic. lol.

 

I'm running out the door here.
P3004 can be the relay(s) in the hv battery.

 

Biggest help would to be able to see the car data live and visually inspect the pack and other hv parts of the car.

Talking on he phone might tease out a few other details that may help narrow things down.

The car is back home, not at dealer, right?

 

Me, being a little behind everyone else in here when it comes to electronics, feels that if the car is 11 years old and the battery is good for 7 to 10 years, I would just replace the battery (as it is most likely the issue due to your cars age) using the guy in here who has a fantastic set up for $1,600. His cost includes shipping, its new, its the new round cylinders and you get to keep the original battery to sell. Win-Win situation.

 

It may not be the cells of the battery, but an electronic, replaceable component within the battery.

 

If it is a component, replacing the battery modules would not resolve the current problem.

 

Did anyone check to see if the fuse in the safety disconnect is actually open?

Punched the gas to pull into traffic = potentially 170+ amps. Fuse is a 125 amp slow blow. maybe it wasn't so slow this time? It only takes 3 minutes and a multimeter to check it................

 

Multi meter

Pixel ?

 

It's unfortunate that the OBD2 DTC and INF code cannot pinpoint the faulty component causing the problem with your car.

I bet that the system main resistor or one of the three system main relays has failed. I would troubleshooting these first.

Being able to drive it after the gasoline engine cut out makes no sense. You shouldn't have been able to drive it at all with the P3004-131. Something is not adding up.

 

How would you square that with the OP continuing to drive and maneuver at up to 30 mph under battery power until safely off the road?

-Chap

 

Yeah, the being able to continue driving is interesting. Talking with the OP may flesh out some other parts of this mystery.

 

Here is a great video that explains how your HV battery works and at the 5 minute mark he talks about the fuse that protects the HV system.

That fuse would be easy to check, did the dealer check it, my guess is not because they want paid for doing it.

 

As proven millions of times, during the split seconds of when an incident happens, and the resultant adrenaline rush and panic, the OP's memory may not be exactly accurate as to what happened.

The fuse is located inside the safety disconnect. The flat plastic plate on front will slide off to expose the fuse, but you can also just take a resistance reading across the disconnect contacts. It should be about zero ohms.