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Replace Front 12v Outlet Problem

Discussion in 'Gen 4 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Deep Tread, Jan 25, 2018.

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  1. Deep Tread

    Deep Tread New Member

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    I've narrowed down a failure with the front 12v outlet to either the outlet itself, or a much more insidious wiring problem. It is NOT the fuse or the devices plugged in (I've eliminated these as potential causes).

    So I need to test and potentially replace the 12v outlet socket.

    I've searched and have been unable to find an understandable how-to instruction on getting under the outlet.

    Is there an easy way to lift up the console top to access under the cigarette lighter socket, or do I have to disassemble the center console. I have no idea how to do either one of these.

    A link to an existing video or detailed instructions would be great, but I'd be very appreciative of ANY help. I rely on this to plug in necessary devices.


    2016 Prius Four
     
    #1 Deep Tread, Jan 25, 2018
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome! i would hope the service manual covers it, but other than that, no idea. hopefully a gen 4 owner will be able to assist you.
     
    #2 bisco, Jan 25, 2018
  3. Deep Tread

    Deep Tread New Member

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    Thanks, bisco. I'm hoping to save the $30 (or whatever), too many bills to pay. Maybe it's too much to hope that someone could PM me the page (PM shouldn't have any copyright issues).
     
    #3 Deep Tread, Jan 26, 2018
  4. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    The Repair Manual, available by subscription to techinfo.toyota.com, does indeed have complete instructions, as @bisco suggests. You’ll also find there the Electrical Wiring Diagram, which shows the power outlet circuits.

    Someone else uploaded the accessory installation instructions for the console appliqués; see steps 1 and 4 for installation and removal of the center console. You might also find the Accessory Installation Manual for the black centre console sold in Europe useful.

    Parts catalog references: Figure 58-06, Console Box & Bracket; Figure 84-01, Switch & Relay & Computer (6/7)
     
    #4 Elektroingenieur, Jan 26, 2018
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  5. Deep Tread

    Deep Tread New Member

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    #5 Deep Tread, Jan 26, 2018
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  6. Deep Tread

    Deep Tread New Member

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    UPDATE: Well, I opened console cover and tested wires at connector that feeds the front 12v outlet with car power on. Nothing at the connector.

    Any guesses at what the next most likely point of failure might be (15A fuse at driver left knee is good)? Is there any other specific fuse or relay that might be involved?
     
    #6 Deep Tread, Jan 26, 2018
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you are checking with the car in ready?
     
    #7 bisco, Jan 26, 2018
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  8. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace 2025 Camry XLE FWD

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    I thought the rating for that socket was 10 Amp. They would not put a 15 Amp fuse on that circuit.

    upload_2018-1-26_19-27-42.png
     
    #8 Prodigyplace, Jan 26, 2018
  9. Lucifer

    Lucifer Senior Member

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    Any sign of mice or rodents in the car?
    There must be a fuse in the front boot for the non function socket.
     
    #9 Lucifer, Jan 26, 2018
  10. Deep Tread

    Deep Tread New Member

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    @bisco Yes.
    @Progidyplace That's weird, my manual shows the same, but the diagram on the fuse box cover and the original fuse both are 15A
    @Lucifer I don't suspect rodents.
    I'm not sure what you mean by fuse in non-functional socket in front boot? There are some empty spaces in fuse panel where this 12v outlet fuse is marked that are x'd off the diagram.

    The thing is I have some clues that I can't reconconcile. This outlet was working with a dashcam plugged in with Additional USB. Blew the fuse, replaced it worked but almost immediately had an intermittent problem with power that I could toggle power by wiggling/pushing down the dash cam adapter in socket. Then the outlet went out again (current status).

    The same dash cam adapter was then plugged into the rear passenger facing 12v outlet. It worked until a phone was plugged into the USB on that dash cam adapter. That was a fuse. Fixed, and rear outlet still working. Needless to say, that was the end of my use of the dash cam (which is still operative).

    My electrical background is limited, but the clues seem to point in different directions.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #10 Deep Tread, Jan 26, 2018
  11. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    Each power outlet circuit is protected by a 15 A fuse; 10 A is the rating for the user.

    To avoid nuisance blowing of fuses, it’s usual automotive design practice to select a fuse with a rating higher than the expected load, sizing the wiring according to this higher rating, of course. In their Body Builder’s Guide for the Hilux, for example, Toyota writes, “The fuse capacity should be about 1.4 times the load current.” GM and Ford publish similar guidance.

    I’ve written about this before; my previous posting also has a brief review of the power outlet circuit and relays, which may be useful to @Deep Tread.
    If the rear (No. 2) power outlet has voltage when the car is on (READY, IG ON, or ACC), but not when the car is off, then the ACC relay, which supplies the P/OUTLET NO.1 fuse for the front (No. 1) power outlet, is likely to be working, since current from the contacts of this relay, via the ECU-ACC fuse, also energizes the coil of the P/OUTLET NO.2 relay.

    If there is indeed no voltage at terminal 1 (red wire) of the No. 1 Power Outlet Socket Assembly connector, measured relative both to terminal 2 (white wire with black stripes) and to the chassis, then the next checks I’d make would be with the P/OUTLET NO.1 fuse removed. (Probe carefully to avoid damaging the fuse contacts.) Check for voltage at the supply side of the fuse socket, and check for continuity between the load side of the fuse socket and terminal 1 (red wire) at the No. 1 Power Outlet Socket Assembly connector. These tests should sectionalize the trouble to the supply, the wiring, or the fuse or its socket.
     
    #11 Elektroingenieur, Jan 26, 2018
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  12. Deep Tread

    Deep Tread New Member

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    UPDATE #2:
    @Elektroingenieur , Thanks for the great info, but even if I can isolate the problem, it then sounds probably like a bigger wiring problem than I am prepared for.

    If, instead, I hardwire my dash cam into the fuse box and pretend my front 12v outlet doesn't exist, all I lose is the USB that would be on top of the dash cam adapter that plugs in to the cig lighter. Not ideal, but a workable compromise.

    I have a Rexing V1 (new dash cam, upgrade from the one that had problem) with a hardwire kit and an Add-a-fuse kit to plug into the fuse box. I know to replace the existing fuse value and an additional 5A for the dash cam on the Add-a fuse.

    So, my question now is which is the best choice fuse slot to plug into, if I want the camera powered on only when car is powered on, and want to put the least tax on the other components in the system, and that is in the fuse box by drivers knee?
     
    #12 Deep Tread, Jan 27, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2018
  13. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    You’re welcome. I highly recommend repairing the original wiring, or having it repaired, before making any modifications. If there is some insidious problem, it might affect whatever you do next.

    For your second question, see my posting from last April. Note that the question there was about unswitched power; for switched power, you’d need a different connector and terminal.
     
    #13 Elektroingenieur, Jan 27, 2018
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  14. Okevin

    Okevin Junior Member

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    Thanks for the accessory installation instructions very helpful.
     
    #14 Okevin, Feb 24, 2020
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