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dash lights on while no fob in or near car!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Ruudh, Oct 20, 2017.

  1. Ruudh

    Ruudh Member

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    I'm no stranger with troubleshooting/fixing Gen II Priuses but this one baffles me.
    My grandson's 2005 prius had a dead 12 volt battery. I tried to charge it but finally determined it would not take a charge so the 12v battery must be open or internally shorted.
    For the time being, I hooked a high capacity deep discharge 12V AGM battery. Connected + to the cluster w/the fuses and the brake controller wiring, the other to chassis ground. Wiring heavier than the normal 12 Volt battery wiring.

    As soon as the battery is fully connected all dash lights come on. The combination meter comes on, although with blinking fuel pip(s) and no status indication on the shift display, obviously no Ready light. Nothing else works.

    insert the fob and the "no key" light goes out, the check engine light extinguishes, an an orange indication in the start button. No start action, and the other warning lights remain on. Windows work. Hybrid battery voltage is 218 volts. Green flashing light in the "Park" button.

    Push the start button again (maybe several times) but the lights remain and the fob remains locked in the slot., so I cannot shut the thing down unless I disconnect the 12V battery.

    I am totally stumped. No idea whatsoever......Ruud
     
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The way I read this is that you're not using jumper cables to connect the spare battery to the car, you're using heavy gauge wire. Spare battery (-) is connected to chassis ground and the (+) is connected to the "jump" terminal located in the engine compartment fuse box. Are you certain that the (+) is touching ONLY the jump terminal? Is the original 'dead' battery still connected or no?

    The fuel pip blinking is normal until the car does a recal on the fuel level. Sometimes 1 minute, sometimes an hour before it indicates normally. You've also lost the auto raise/lower function on the windows and radio presets. Totally normal for loss/restoration of 12v power.

    I bet if you were to connect your spare battery to the actual battery connections in the trunk, everything would work normally. I may be wrong on this though. Wouldn't be my first time.......
     
    #2 TMR-JWAP, Oct 20, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017
  3. Ruudh

    Ruudh Member

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    Thanks for responding so soon. But your assumption that the + terminal of the battery is connected to the "jump" terminal is incorrect, that way I would miss all the other required connections (fuses, brake controller).. from my original post:
    "........I Connected + to the cluster with the fuses and the brake controller wiring, the other to chassis ground. Wiring heavier than the normal 12 Volt battery wiring......"
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    what voltage does the new battery measure?
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Now I'm really confused. Maybe I'm just not comprehending what you're trying to explain. The normal 12v is dead. You're trying to hook up a temporary 12v battery to power up the car until you can get a replacement battery.

    If you disconnect the "normal" 12 v battery ground wire from the battery terminal, and connect another 12 v battery (+) to the jump terminal in the engine compartment and the (-) to chassis ground, everything for the car will be able to power up when you press the start button twice. I don't understand what you mean by missing all the other required connections???

    If you don't want to use those connections, then just connect the spare 12v battery to the normal (+) and (-) connectors in the trunk, just make sure they are connected well and the (+) is insulated from touching anything else..(light bulb just turned on)...... Is this what you meant when you said the (+) is connected to the cluster with the fuses and brake controller wiring? If so, it only took me reading your post a dozen times before I understood what you meant. If you already have the spare 12 v connected to the normal terminals, and the car is not powering up, then I have nothing for you. You could always try to connect it using the jump terminal to see if it works that way or not.
     
    #5 TMR-JWAP, Oct 20, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017
  6. Ruudh

    Ruudh Member

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    Your "lightbulb" interpretation is correct. The problem is that the car is powering up when it shouldn't. No fob anywhere near the car, and the dash warning lights come on. I'm beginning to suspect that I have a "fried" relay somewhere that is stuck in the "on" position, acting as if the fob is in the ignition slot. will examine the wiring diagram......RH
     
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    need to read the trouble codes.
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  8. Ruudh

    Ruudh Member

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    This one is for the Gen II Prius experts: It is a follow-up on my previous post (see above)

    My grandson’s 2005 Prius with 214K miles on it, has sat in his family’s parking lot for about 7 months. When I tried to get it running, all sorts of weird stuff happened, none consistently. I finally charged the HV battery with a Prolong charger, and replaced the 12V battery, and finally got it running albeit occasionally with no combination meter . When the CM is out, I have to hold the Power button for 3 seconds to start it or shut it down !!

    It has been throwing error codes left and right, Mostly U and D category, none clearly indicating a specific problem area. When I get it going (warning lights on), it runs OK, but then after about 2 to 5 miles, the battery suddenly cuts out and it is just the ICE running the car. Then the ICE is running at high RPM( 3600 – 3800 RPM), slow acceleration, low constant speed etc. The MFD shows no power coming into, or going out of the traction battery, verified by a Scangauge tool which shows 0 (Hybrid) battery amps, but good Hybrid battery voltage (between 229 and 235V). When this happens, it is normally only accompanied by a code P0000. But then when you shut the system down and power it back up, all will be well again. Maybe for the entire trip, or just maybe for the next mile or so.

    The combination meter sometimes works, sometimes not.

    Anybody have any ideas ??
     
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    1) you need to repair/replace the cm.

    then use tech stream and service manual for codes and troubleshooting.
     
  10. Ruudh

    Ruudh Member

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    For the time being, I'm ignoring the combination meter. Can always fix that later, although I hate tearing the dash apart.
    Techstream says I have codes P014 and P023. Those are two weak battery blocks, and I know how to fix that. Actually the car seems to run fine with those two DTCs set. It is the dropping out of the battery relay (audible) at some point during the drive. Techstream also comes up with DTC P3000 which comes from the battery ECU. Subcode is 123. I need to find out what is causing this.......Ruud
     
  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    good luck!(y)