2010 Prius - Rear Hub Bearing replacement

Maybe if it were bone dry...But i lubed that bearing to death so she slid right off.
The thread method is a life saver.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

 

I wonder: are the four holes I've circled what the bearing hold-down bolts pass through, to the weld-nuts on back? Then what are the two extra holes, flagged with arrows? Are they by chance threaded, for removal aid? I'm not sure you could get a bolt on those from the far side, especially the right side one.

I'm really curious if they're threaded. Did you happen to notice, or maybe can tell in the original picture?

 

damn I didn't even notice those holes you drew arrows on.
The dust shield would cover those holes now that i'm looking at the other pics.

 

I'm sceptical if you could even get a bolt to them from the far side, it is so tight quarters. Even the left side. If it was possible, and they're threaded, I can only think of one reason for them, similar to threaded holes on rotors, brake drums: to help force them off.

They're hidden by the dust plate, viewing from the front. I'm really not sure, seems like they're barely behind the bearing flange.

 

Hey everyone! I thought I would jump in on this thread with some questions, as I am also in need of replacing my rear drivers side hub.

I was recently was rear ended, and although other than the cosmetic damage, my car was running fine when I brought it to the body shop, though when I picked it up, there was that loud rubbing sound coming from the back end. It wasn't there when I brought it in, and was LOUD upon receiving my car. I brought it back to the body shop, and the guy said it sounds like the wheel bearing was going bad, and that there's nothing they could do about it. Everything I read said that the sound of a wheel bearing going bad increases over time, which is why it was so unnerving to me that it was so loud just suddenly. I took it to a mechanic friend of a friend, and he said that indeed it is the hub going bad, and that the only way it could have been switched out by the body shop (my concern) is that they would have either had to taken of the hub, or replaced the entire axle, which is unlikely because it's such a labor intensive job that it wouldn't be worth it to try a scam like that.

So here I am with a hub that needs to be replaced. I cant afford an OEM right now, and the Timkin isn't all that much cheaper. the cheapest replacement that I have found online so far is a brand that's just called "Replacement," which is $70 with shipping. I will take it to a local mechanic who will do the labor for $100 straight up, so I need to find out if anyone has experience with this particular "brand" and if it would be worth buying.Sure there's the saying "you get what you pay for," though I'm hoping I might get lucky with this one.

 

Just my uneducated, inexperienced 2 cents: go for the Timken. Further uneducated/inexperienced: RockAuto has good prices, reasonable shipping.

This one I believe:

More Information for TIMKEN HA590373

 

The Moog brand from Rock Auto should be a good choice also.

More Information for MOOG 512505

 

Thanks guys. So I'm guessing all of the parts listed on Rock Auto under "economy" are just shit?

 

When I had my 2008 I replaced the right front wheel bearing and I bought the MOOG brand and if I remember right it was made in Japan and not China. It's your money, it's just that some name brands mean quality still today. I hope in the future there will be some Chinese manufacturers that build a name for themselves on quality. It is possible some of those bearings are made in other countries than China.

 

Thanks for the advice, y'all. One more question: If I attempt to change it myself, what tools would I need exactly?

 

I haven't done a rear but here is a YouTube video that may help.

 

Follow @padroo ‘s video.

Having done the job you are looking to do on another members Prius last year, some findings:

• Replacement was a Timken
• Job is straight forward
• Disconnect the 12v battery negative lead and leave it in a spare rag
• Place a towel over the hatch locking mechanism to avoid “the crawl”
• As long as there is little rust or salt intrusion, you’ll be ok
• Removing the speed sensor is a bit fiddly as it comes apart like a clam shell, ensure you remove the speed sensor before getting the hub off

I have replaced my front hubs with various brands:

Dura Go from Rock Auto for the drivers side replaced about 8 k miles ago and still going strong.

Moog for the passenger side replaced about 2 k miles ago and going strong.

I mixed and matched the front as I was going to do the Dura Go’s but the second one wasn’t machined well and did not seat on the splines correctly on the front shaft.

But that’s not a problem for the back.

Hope that helps and good luck .

 

Does anyone know if disconnecting the battery will screw up the computer? I'm working on a 2013 Prius V and I'm hesitant to leave her CPU without battery backup. (Pretty sure there's a mainframe in this baby).

Thanks in advance. Great forum and lots of excellent information!

 

No problem disconnecting battery. I do find it does an odd high rev at startup afterwards, for maybe the first couple of start ups. And of course presets, trip meters are toast. But no big deal.

If your auto up window stops working there's a relearn trick for that.

 

Thanks, Mendel. I was wondering why everybody talked about disconnecting the battery because it seems like pulling a fuse would be an easier solution.

 

I just did this on my 2010 and this thread was really handy, so I thought I would contribute a little...

I installed the Timken from Rock Auto - $175 shipped

I used the threaded rod trick and it worked great - I used two on one side and one on the other. I tightened them up pretty tight and then gave the hub a little tap-tap-tap with hammer. Not too hard...just light to medium tap on one side then the other. Then tighten up the rods and tap again. Repeat. took no real effort at all and came off on 4th tighten.

I couldn't get sensor connector off after getting clamshell off, so I put two of the hub bolts back in to keep it from falling out and damaging wire. It was easy to take connector off after hub was free and I could gently pull it out.

Was not a tough job - made way easier with this thread and a few youtube videos...Thanks PriusChat!

 

Good feedback, thanks!

With 85K kms, I'll probably never need to do the deed, but I'm ready.

 

Sets right up the old "itemized bill" joke.

"Two hundred dollars to pull a fuse!? What do you take me for? I demand an itemized bill!"

"Oh, ok."

• Pull fuse: $0.50
• Know which fuse to pull: $199.50