2006: RTD, stopped driving. Now won't start, 17 codes

Codes: P0A0D, P1E03, P0171, C3200, P0038, P0001 P0102, P0120, P0301, P0220, P2501, P2202, P2202, P0325, P3503, P0341, P0001

12v battery seems draining, measured 11.38. Recharged to 12.7 out of circuit. Load tested to 290 CCAs (320 CCA battery).

How do I reset these codes?
Do I need a miniVCI + software? What's the latest version, best price and vendor?

Then what next if the same codes persist ???

 

Arrgh! Replacing the old Innova scanner.
Charged the 12v and let it sit overnight; read 12.5v just now disconnected.
Connected, draining slowly. Tried the "what-i...f" I disconnect something like the...hmm lets see, the Brake module next to the battery.
Stopped draining the battery. Opened that box, hmm... full of capacitors. Ok, expect a drain for those - being offline a few days, now.

Ordered the mini VCI with Techstream v12.20.. for $48, finding itsa refurb by the offer to insure it for 6 mos @ $2. Well isnt that special!
In the mean time till it arrrrives on 10/27...

Gonna yank the HV Battery (purchased the car June 2016, seller claimed refurbished the batteries. Gets all but top line in charge screen).
Purpose - check for corrosion, what else? Can the HV relay contactors be manually engaged or cleaned?

What else should I check?

 

@SFO - I like your profile photo...How does that airbag work with your steering wheel modifications ?

The 12v Battery is holding above 12.4v; unable to clear the codes...Still waiting for the VCI scanner to arrive (by Saturday).

 

Arrgghh! This ordeal has been depressing and consuming.
The MiniVCI Scanner I ordered would not connect to the car.
The vendor thinks I never used a computer, so eBay will be refunding my dough.
Gonna try another - after I get past this stage.

So there were many codes, different ones every time I reset them on my (Kmart-special) ODB2 reader.
I put PriusChat servers on overdrive looking for more things to try, while charging the 12v and resetting codes.
The 12v would never charge past 12.8VDC.

Put the Brake Control Power Supply back in-line and jolts dropped to < 8.4. Recharged without the BCPS, holds at 12.8v.
Found a junker one (had to climb over cars, 3 acres deep to get to the '05; this place had over 100 acres on an old Dallas wastewater plant's cess ponds, with 4 more cars in the 'outback' that I wasn't going to look for).
The owner quoted "$40-$60 - will price when you get here" (when he sees how I am dressed and what I drive?).
BUT-The illegal alien part puller on the job understood $25 pretty well, and I snagged the Owners Manual too, from the '05 - which incidentally had 3, yes 3x 18-wheeler rims, plus the pulled inverter and most of the interior: inside the car.

So I drove though the bevy barn to ward off any radioactive volcanic ash and diseases, went home and installed it - no more 12v drain!
Still, not starting ... back to the RTOD and the Kmart ODB2 reader...

So I bought a Walmart 'special' Group 51 12v, like the Optimus D51 one that AutoZone 'loaned me'. (Kid at college, one in USAF, and a failure to launch at home, lost my job, trying to train and get another one while readying the house to sell fast when that time comes).
The WMT wet battery was $121, and reads ~ 13.6V.
Cleared codes, got a new set. Cleared again, got another long set.

Cleared the next day, got another set.

Disgusted, waited a few days, then my friend with the mobile lawnmower repair business came over to sight in his deer rifle, so we opened the Prius hatch and connected the 12v first. Read 13.6v (with the 'special' Brake Controller), connected the ODB2 reader.

He suggested over a beer, that we give it one last chance, so I cleared the codes a few times to see if the spinning bottle on the Ouija board says anything different thru the crystal ball, before we commence to target practice.
So cleared 'em, and got a C1259, C1310, & P3018.
Cleared again, got the same. Cleared again, got the same again.

So I am looking for new cells - who has 'em, and who has best pricing?
What is the cost difference between the Gen 2s and Gen 3s?
Can I mix (pairing the same per bank), or is it an all convert or none?
Where can I find the best instructions?

 

Still down.
Recharged the 12v, heald steady at 12.7v connected in circuit, with the BCPS from the junk dealer.

Replaced the HV at PepBoys for $1060. 30% off code on the site, priced and scheduled for free installation, but won't take any ccard. Selected pay in store. Manager called a couple days later said had to move the appointment from Monday to Tuesday, to meet the FedEx delivery schedule.

Went in yesterday on scheduled appointment, the store manager said it there is a safety issue, as they didn't have any HV gloves or trained tech. Also said it was a pricing issue, but agreed to honor the price. Battery built 10/26/2017, warranty card says must install and send in card before 1/27/2018 or void warranty.

We agreed I would replace it myself there.
7 hours stuck there waiting on loaner tools.
Gotter dunn, then back home on the trailer.

Drove it a while today: the Consumption and Energy displays are intermittently inaccurate - ICE running, displays feed only from HV battery. And vice-versa.
Then correctly displays then back to incorrect. Im thinking needs a long drive to fully charge.
After 20 miles short trips (+/-5 miles), 47mpg. Battery rises to all but top blue bar, ICE starts running.
Now RTD again, C1310 & C1378. 12.7v on the old AGM battery, with the replacement BCPS in or out of circuit.

Bummed...where to start now ($1k out except for 3yr warranty?) ?

 

Thanks for responding, ericbecky; 12v still reads 12.78v, and earier tested at AutoZone to 250 CCA.
I will try the rev-charge. I appreciate these kind of suggestions.


@ChapmanF - apology, I will post code text descriptors going forward. I agree, it is hard to recall the descriptions, as it also useless to new people trying to diagnose and find help for their issues, as it was for me.

@SFO - I will refer to PatrickWong's post for clearing codes too.
The ODBII reader I purchased was the mVCI, and it would not connect to the car. I have ordered another, waiting on arrival. I am using an Innova reader, and my neighbor has a new bluetooth android reader, but I am at his mercy since I don't have an android. Going to see if I can find an inexpensive android tablet and order a BT ODBII reader if so.

With the Brake Control Power Supply (BCPS) replaced and not draining the 12v like before, seems time to also work on the SCM ECU wire and connector testing till another mVCI comes.

 

@ericbecky - I tried the no charge wait overnight and test, 12.43v before and 11.8 after.

Replaced the AGM with the Bosch AGM - thanks @exstudent - from PepBoys, $135.

RTD gone, drove 66 miles to charge the rebuilt Dorman HV battery. HV reached green once.
Put my son in the car for Lubbock (350 miles), and in 2 minutes the RTD was back.

C1310 - Malfunction in the HV System.

Rented a sled and drove him to Lubbock and back Sunday and Monday.
$130: including a nice Enterprise rental discount, gas, and hotel with breakfast.
After the return, there were numerous additional codes.

Received 2 more mVCI cables, one with software, the other with a Dropbox link witche provided only 3 files for installation.
Used the one wiffa disk; and after lots of trial and error, finally got to the point where the software would complete the install correctly without "failing prematurely" on Win10.
Step 2 - the software started searching for the mVCI cable and found it, then found the car.
All other utilities are also working (I presume...didn't venture into everthang, but there is lots that werx.)

Connected to the car, read all history. Naturally, all was erased and NO CODES.
Verifying with the Innova 3100 ABS, it gives 16 codes. Cleared, rechecked twice - 16 codes all three times - some the same & some different.
Why the different codes every time?
Rechecked with the mVCI (and newUsed windows10 desktop on wheels): No CODES.

Gonna drive it and drive it some more before risking another $130 rescue trip to Lubbock.