Another blown head gasket.

My experience with our interference, 3mz Sienna is that cam/crank correlation codes (P0016 in this case) set very easily, a good thing of course. An idler bearing had gone wobbly and the belt was walking it's way into the timing cover and had literally shaved a solid third the width of the belt. The timing compartment was packed full disintegrated timing belt. Tension was disturbingly low but the belt hadn't actually jumped any teeth. My point with all of this is that I'm betting you're ok, although I'm also betting you're pulling the timing cover again...

Also, there have been some cases of P0011/P0016 in the Gen 2 forums over the years but no reports of damage that I recall, mostly just "runs fine with the code."

Awesome work!!

 

Looks like we may have inspired the catch can install after the meet up on Saturday with @RMB ’s OCC .

Good location. Being below the PCV valve will help ensure no pooling of oil will sit on the downstream side of the valve.

Good to talk to you on Saturday and thank you for sharing your experience through the head gasket process .

 

So is the conclusion the original misfire problem was indeed the head gasket, even though I don't believe there was any obvious damage to it visible when you pulled the head? I don't think there was anything else you did that could have corrected it? Are coolant fluid levels confirmed stable now?

I assume you put in new spark plugs, but I doubt that could have been it...

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If you want to keep the lines you have, there is a member here who works in San Ramon that could help out and avoid changing the lines out .

 

Thats why I chose the blue can and blue hoses

 

Is still can't figure out where is this oil catch can mounted on the engine. Is it at the intake manifold at the rear just close to the exhaust manifold, or where?

Nice pictures though

 

Yeah heavier, black rubber fuel lines seem more solid, either SAE-30R6 or R7. I see the latter available at a local automotive store for $1.69 per foot, not hard to get.

Picture taking looking up from underneath, looks like original U-shaped hose left connected a manifold end.

 

Thanks for the explanations sir!

 

Depending on what threads those hose barbs have you may be able to do something like:


OR

 

Maybe overkill? Just going to better spec fuel line, no risk of tube collapse, and more adjustable.

 

@Mendel Leisk wanted to ask you bout the inner diameter of those gas pipes you used with your OCC compare to tube diameter that connects pcv valve to IM.

 

I've got this:

inside diameters of the hose between PCV valve and intake manifold:
valve end: 3/8"
manifold end: 3/4"?
hose part number: 12261-37060

You can readilly easily check that question marked ID, if you take the air box off and pull the hose off. I believe it's 3/4", and of course I didn't measure it when I had the manifold off the car. If you get a more definitive number please post.

All of the measurements should be behind the nub at end of spigot I think. The nub is a little bigger, helps lock the hose, but it's the OD further along the spigots that count, should correspond with the ID of hose.

 

I found the easiest way to check was to have a collection of hoses, various diameters (if you can swing it): try pushing a possible hose on, see if it goes. I had a hose that was 5/8" dia, and it looked like it would go, but way too tight. Which is why I guestimated 3/4".

 

Everything still good?


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Any straight hose will collapse if bent too much unless it is molded that way. I have seen hoses use springs inside or out to apply pressure on the walls to prevent collapse. Jegs <-------- click