Rattling noise from rear suspension

I has this exact same thing. Passenger side rear. They had to replace the rear shock. Lose something or other on it. Now, no sound at all.

 

Noticed mine stopped making noise. Either they fixed it or something fell off.

 

Took one of them in for my 10K and they did the recall and torqued the nuts. They said my nuts were not loose. So I must have a repair gremlin onboard or they did it at 5K and did not tell me.

Very strange. My silver one is next so we will see if I have loose nuts or no nuts at all.

Side note is my white one seems to be quieter than my silver one for rear noise.
What my wife says and I think she may be right.

 

Maybe they are self tightening.

 

OK, how is everyone's loose nuts?

Took my other 2016 in and no loose nuts. It also mysteriously quit making noise arround the first oil change.

 

Has another question if I can remember it.

Oh! Will the lumbar support be covered after 12K?

 

My rattling noise turned out to be the seals around the rear hatch. They replaced and noise went away

 

Hi i have same rear rattling issue but my car has 37k miles now i have been telling the dealer since the car had 10k but they said they cant hear the noise.. now the noise is louder and comes from both sides on rear.. after reading this post i m pretty sure its the shock nut issue.. does anyone know if it would be covered under warranty ?.. if not than how much would it cost me ( if anyone got it fixed out of warranty)

 

It would be warranty, but if your car fits the range, there is a recall. See this posting for details.

Strange clunk noise from rear | PriusChat

 

When you say range what donu mean? My car is early 2016 manufacture

 

The TSB mentioned in my link has a range of VIN numbers to which it applies.

 

So as per my understanding a tsb is to help the technician fix a common problem and will be done free if car under warranty and would cost money if not under warranty my car has 37k miles and i know shocks are not part of power train so my warranty is over if they have to fix an issue related to shocks.. tsb is not a recall? Or correct me if i m wrong my vin is jtdkarfu8g35007**

 

[QUOTE = "altdel, post: 2438597, member: 8896"] Vaya, está más extendido de lo que pensaba. Ojalá hubiera hecho el doble wishbone sea más confiable [/ QUOTE] Hola tengo un pruis 2016 y tiene un ruido de atrás baúl que pregunto si es el mismo que tú crees gracias puerto rico

 

I have a 2016 Prius 2, they did the suspension thing 3 times and it still rattled when I picked it up last week! The dealer resorted to wrapping black electrical tape around the hatch anchor..that only made the hatch hard to open! I came to this forum and saw a post where someone was taping rubber pieces on the hatch edges-where the body meets the hatch to seal. I decided to look around for something to put in there to try, and looked in the closet and found some shoe sole inserts; I placed one on each side where there is a rubber bumper and after a year of dealing with this the rattle is gone! I took it to the dealer on Monday and they were amused but were happy my bright blue inserts satisfied me...the technician said there was nothing from Toyota to guide him on how to solve the rattle!

 

In regards to the TSB 0114-16 and the faulty nut assembly I could use some help. My car is out of warranty so can’t get it done for free and the estimate is higher than I want to pay. I’m trying to do it myself but can’t find tutorials for shock aborber replacement on gen 4. Gen 3 is completely different set up and did not help. Any guidance would be appreciated. 2016 prius 3 with 125k miles

 

Nothing to do with warranty, it's a safety recall so it should be done for free.

 

A rattle is not a safety recall. The conditions are right on the TSB - 30000 miles or 36 months. Wish it was that easy.

 

If it’s any consolation I have a gen 2 Prius and have these same rear rattles only after replacing all four shocks/struts

 

I've had the same rattle for quite a few miles, figured it was something bouncing around behind the seats or maybe the seat pivots. So I did nothing, until yesterday when I had some time to look at it. It was the top nut on the shock indeed.

As I'm well beyond the 36K warranty limit, I did the repair myself. Would really have been easier if 1) I could find some information online about how to do it and/or 2) the nut is located in a similar place as on the Gen 1, 2 or 3 Prius models. Alas, I was unsuccessful with #1 so I did the older Gen thing and ripped out all the plastic trim pieces in the trunk and behind the seat only to find out that the top nut for the shock is NOT accessed from inside the car at all, rather from the wheel well. Bummer.

It's not a particularly difficult repair if you have a reasonable kit of tools. Jack up the car, remove the wheel and sit the car on a jackstand far enough in that the suspension arm can still move up and down. Then put your floor jack under the suspension arm (block of wood in between the two) so that you can move it up and down a little. Remove the two bolts from the 'wings' of the upper shock absorber assembly and remove the bolt & washer at the bottom of the shock.

The full instructions say to remove the rear stabilizer link assembly and the bolt holding the upper control arm assembly. This will (presumably) allow the wheel structure to pivot forward and backwards (when viewed from the side of the car) and will make it very easy to get the bottom of the shock out. I didn't do that, it seemed like a PITA. Instead, I raised and/or lowered the suspension arm via the jack while holding down the shock with my other hand. If you gently tap the bottom of the shock with a mallet, you can find the magic spot where it will just slip off.

Once the shock is out, you can pry off the top rubber cap and see the offending nut. I don't have a socket wrench with a hole in the middle where you can put an allen wrench, but it didn't turn out to be a big deal. I was able to get it off and back on with an offset box wrench. Or you can use a 17mm socket and a pipe wrench, which I also did just to make sure that it was tight. I used red Loctite, which is the color of the thread lock that was on the assembly (and which failed). From what I read it could be a bit of a pain to replace the shock in the future, but this is the correct cross for the Three Bond 1324 which is specified in the TIS.

BTW, I did finally find documentation on the repair via the AutoMate database that our local library had online. Very handy and very complete. Let's hear it for libraries! Wish I had done that before ripping out the plastic trim!

The T-SB-0144-16 Rev1 TIS (also available in its entirety on AutoMate) clearly states that the shock is not to be replaced as part of the TIS itself. The TIS mentions only one replacement part - a new nut on both sides of the car - from what I see on the web it's just a metal nut not including a plastic piece. On some web pages I'd seen that the repair involved a second lock nut on top of the first, but I don't see that nor did I do it.

 

This is exactly what my 2016 rattle noise sounds like. I am going to torque them myself and if unsuccessful, then after my trip, see how the dealer responds. My Gen 3 has 180k and I have only had to replace rear wheel bearing/spindles (135k towing miles at hi spd). The 2016 dashboard squeaks too, so I will copy all applicable TSBs and give them the car.