Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

"If" I remember it correctly, I have to smog mine last year but the smog check station just plug into OBDII connector and downloaded the data and passed.

I'm pretty sure the startup misfire is from water getting into cylinder after stopping and sitting. It started happening when sitting overnight but now it can happen by sitting less than 1hr combined with coolant loss. I removed the seal from the coolant cap to relieve pressure for couple of days as experiment and I didn't have any misfires of coolant loss. I just got the parts delivered today and will do head gasket and EGR cleanup in about a month. Thanks.

 

Are you considering an engine swap? What parts did you get delivered? You got a good facility to accommodate the work? You need any tools? Where in the Bay Area are you located?

Depending on the above, I might be interested in participating to feed my own curiosity .

And depending on when, there might be others who'd be willing to assist, or watch:

Possible Monthly install meets. Bay Area-Fremont

Keep us posted .

 

I like that idea. Might go with dan recommends . sometimes it feela like im driving with door open. I wonder if this will avoid my warranty. We know how dealers are

 

Ok so where do i apply that? On the door frame? The door itself? Might not lock properly? Should i do it to all 4 doors and trunk? Im ready for that. Freeway noise is sabotaging my ears . every friday after driving back from vegas i get a whisle for at least ten hours.

 

Got it.
Thanks dan.
About pricing. Is there any big difference between that honda and the corning. I guess they both do a good job

 

Maybe silicone dielectric grease too? I've got an ancient tube of that. And a spray can of silicone. Anything but Armoral: that stuff is strange, turns rubber brown...

 

Yea.... but some us know how to do this kinda work


iPhone ? Pro

 

Here is a 5000 miles update after head gasket qas changed by dealer.
Coolant consumption- non
Oil consumption- less than 1/3 quart.
Mpg is 48.5 on an average speed of 35 mph.
driving at least 75% on frewway.
I noticed they replaced a bunch of gaskets like timing chain cover gasket. Water pump gasket and more. Im sure they didnt clean the egr cooler but they probably cleaned the IM.
Before that repair my mpg was around 45 so just a little improvement.

 

Exactly. Its just a silicon rubber.
I also collected some data from the obd i bought. Like engine temp is around 92 deg celcius and some rpm at different high speeds and battery cell levels around 14.9v to 17v when fully charged.
I decided not to mess with egr cooler myself as to what i read bout that nasty bolt underneath. I will have to find a mechanic that will do a good with these two items.im sure dealer didnt do the egr cooler.
Actually i think i read all posts and all threads bout blown head gasket. I cant afford loosing a gasket again . just drove 5000 miles in less than two months.
Smart prius owner should know it happens at 80k too.
Can you send a link to a reasonable quality and budget priced occ? Same like you did with the obd2.
Thanks

 

If you haven't, watch @NutzAboutBolts on the EGR cooler and valve cleaning, pinned in the maintenance sub-forum. I struggled reaching the bolt underneath (actually a stud plus nut), but managed. I noticed when he was reinstalling the nut on that stud what he finally did, was reach around from the left side, with left hand. I believe with that approach you can actually get the nut on the stud with your fingers, less chance of dropping it.

You need an E8 Torx socket for removing the EGR cooler and valve studs. When doing the intake manifold, there are smaller studs for the throttle body, that require E6 Torx socket. A ratcheting 12 mm wrench is also handy (not necessity, but makes it easier), in particular for the cooler to exhaust flange connection. A regular 12 mm wrench will do but will take you longer, more awkward.

I clean the cooler first with Braklean (chlorinated), and then with OxyClean soaks. I maybe should have gone straight to the Oxy, it was far more effective. Oxy method: Plug one end, and pour in the hottest tap water plus as thick a solution of Oxy as you can dissolve, then let it sit for one hour minimum. Rinse well with lots of hot tap water, then repeat, 5 or 6 times. This got the interior of the cooler perfectly clean.

I also ran a thin gauge copper wire (tip deburred) through the passages, though not sure how much this was needed, or how safe it is. Suspect the Oxy alone was doing a good job.

With the valve I didn't need OxyClean really, in the main used Braklean chlorinated. I did one soak of Oxy, for not too long, and that helped to clean the valve stem quickly. I did not remove the plastic housing that activates the valve: it's screws are on very solid, not sure if I could break them loose without stripping. I'm a little concerned about the water tightness of that housing, so was cautious how I oriented the valve housing, kept it at the top, and didn't overdue sprays/soaks.

There's a fair amount of finicky/delicate work, a lot of wrenching, both for the cooler/valve removal, and the removal of various other components, just to get at it, for access. This involves: the EGR connector pipe (between intake manifold and EGR valve), the engine air intake snorkel and air filter housing, and everything from the windshields wipers down to the metal cowl under.

Also, I opted to drain 2 liters of coolant at the radiator drain spigot, at the outset. Then with everything reassembled poured it back into the reservoir. That worked fine, I left the coolant vent spigot open at the top, with clear tubing attached, burped the radiator lower hose a few times, then closed the vent. After driving the next day the coolant level in reservoir settle to the same place it was pre EGR cleaning. Later years don't have the vent, but I believe you could just pull off the topmost hose over the EGR cooler (it is the high point of coolant in the system), then reinstall once coolant appears. A little messier, but effective.

To have a mechanic do all this is a nice thought, but I'm not sure it would be cost effective, it might be, but there's a lot of fussy, time consuming work. And you don't want to rush.

Addendum, added Repair Manual excerpts, for EGR and Intake Manifold (plus throttle body) removal/install. They have torque values, for the bolts, nuts and studs.

Addendum: Note with IM removal: it's not necessary to disconnect coolant hoses, you can just pull the throttle body off and tie it up and out of the way, say near the side of the inverter.

Addendum: I'd recommend to at least be prepared to raise the front end of the car, if needed. Once you do raise it, reaching anything in the engine bay gets tougher, so maybe don't raise the car at the outset. But, there's a fair chance you'll drop something, and with a little luck it'll fall all the way through. If you've got the means to raise the front end and remove the underpanel, you've a decent chance of finding it. The one thing I dropped was the backmost EGR to exhaust flange gasket: it has no clips, and fell down onto an intermediate shelf. Luckily I was able to fish it out with a grab-it tool. That thing REALLY should have retainer clips. The radiator coolant drain tap is accessible WITHOUT raising the car or removing underpanel, BTW.

 

One way to make the mechanic replacement cost effective is to buy the egr valve and cooler for ~$100 and have them ready and you know their condition .

Less than an hours worth of labor charge and you have a spare for next time .

 

Very good point. The cleaning is the time burner.

Still, I wouldn't let one itty nut nix DIY. It's hard to reach, but I wouldn't throw in the towel because of it. A tip:

It's just aft of largish diameter coolant line (with a black mesh cover) that's connecting to the engine there. Reaching in, you can feel the tip of the stud with a finger, just so you know it's for real, lol.

When you're facing the connection, it's around 3 oclock relative to that coolant line, considering that coolant line like a clock face. I had a long 12mm socket, with a 1.5" and 3" extension, then a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, then a Jet ratchet wrench (1/2" drive, long handle, breaker bar style) with swivel head.

Loosening the hybrid battery cable clip, and just snaking all of the above in and through, and a lot of patience, I got there.

 

I will adopt your idea. Theres a mechanic i know. He is always by the oreilys parking. Doing minor stuff. I will just buy an egr cooler, clean it with Mendel Leisk oxy process and let him do it. I think it will take about 1.5 hr to do that.
What do you think mighty ray?

 

See if you can get one complete with the valve and sub-assembly elbow. Give him the complete assembly, all cleaned and ready to go. Basically all this:



BTW: it was @mjoo who suggested cleaning the cooler with OxyClean. I was getting nowhere fast with braklean, the oxy was a godsend.

I would be stay away from using oxy on aluminum (the cooler is fine, all stainless steel construction), and also avoid vinegar rinse in general. I used vinegar a little on the intake manifold, and I think it was starting to blacken some threaded embeds, that look to be cadmium coated, gold coloured.

 

1.5 hours in on the quick side. unless you are just talking about the cooler removal absent the windshield wiper cowling and draining the coolant. How experienced is the mechanic you'll use?

I have done this job 3 times and the fastest I have accomplished it with 2 other experienced hands was 4 hours. But I'm just a backyard, shade tree mechanic.

Hope that helps.