$4500 brake accumulator vs. $600 ABS module 2004 model

Welcome to PriusChat!!

You might want to first register an account and enter your VIN here :Toyota Owners Official Web Site

It is possible that recall (and others) have already been performed on this new to you vehicle, you can check the dealer service history (including recalls that you might qualify for) through the above link(s).

Though it might be possible to have a recall done by another mechanic and be reimbursed by Toyota (bit of a gamble), most would agree it best to have any and all recalls done by the dealer which includes a parts and labor warranty (at any Toyota dealership).

Did either of the mechanics read/scan the DTC codes before they gave you those estimates? If either did, you should get those and post them here. If not then you should find a way to have those codes read first before doing anything and then post them here. You could pay the dealer (or someone else) to read the codes, you could also do it yourself with the right set up (ELM adaptor, mini-vci, scan gauge II, etc). It might also be possible that one of the local auto parts shops has a hybrid compatible reader you can borrow or lease, sometimes they will even do it for free in the parking lot.

The dealer wants to do a 'diagnostic trouble code' scan to determine what is wrong with your vehicle, if the proper code for the above recall has been logged by your Prius they will do the recall on their dime (or corporate as the case may be) and should refund you the $100+. If the code hasn't been logged they will not cover the potential recall repair, but should tell you what is wrong with the vehicle and offer you an estimate to fix it- which might be worth $100+.

I also don't feel spending $100+ for a potential recall as being fair, but it could be if the other options are spending $600 or $4500 (just for a new part) and not having the issue fixed (or not knowing what the problem even is). Best to get the codes and go from there, whether it be from the dealer or elsewhere.

Did you notice any odd noises before, during or after the warning lights/beeping started?

 

Very nice that both mechanics checked the codes beforehand, also nice that you were the codes without having to pay anything (or did you?).. but the fact that neither told you to take it to the dealer for a (potential) free recall repair isn't so nice. Might be time to look for additional mechanics if your area (can never have too many!).

Though the mechanic B appeared to hit it on the head, he was pretty far off on the cost of the 'new' part : 2004 Toyota Prius Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping - maybe he meant $4500 total with extra parts, liquids, labor and tax.

Those codes are indicative and required for the recall to be covered by Toyota(*), make sure mechanics (A and B) havn't reset or cleared the codes and find a safe way to get the vehicle to any dealer. The buzz can also be a sign of failure, but won't qualify for a recall without said codes.

(*) assuming it hasn't already had the ZG1 recall before, you can check for that here : Toyota Owners Official Web Site or by visiting the local dealer and giving them your VIN. Or you might ask someone at one the 800 #'s you called and registered your VIN with.

 

i would spend the $100. at toyota. if that doesn't pan out, take the codes to mech a and get an opinion.

 

Please be sure you double check the VIN, as it seems odd that a 13 year old vehicle has never seen the inside of dealer service department before.

 

That short lived noise after shut down is common, but not when it goes on forever, and the new extended buzz is also a tell tale sign that the brake actuator has failed, but neither will get a free fix from the dealer without the needed code(s).

https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2016/05/107118_T-CP-ZG1-A110-D.pdf

The dealer will want to charge you for this recall only if the vehicle doesn't qualify, otherwise they will fix all that they can for **free**.

If that doesn't solve the problem take it back to mechanic A and try the $600 option.

If money is an issue I would start by taking it to the dealer for the $100+ dealer inspection and then go from there.

Though I could be mistaken, ALL vehicles, salvage title or not can qualify for recalls.

 

just had my 08 done for free.
call the dealer with the vin number ask about the extended warrantee.. WHAT EVER YOU DO DONT SAY THE WORD RECALL!
if your vin is covered by this the inspection if free..
the repair is free..
don't disconnect the battery as this will erase the error codes and they will not cover it..
you only get one free inspection so I hope your fix is free

 

lol not my tent just found it odd someone would spend $1150 to sleep on top of the car when there tons of room and ac inside.. and its bear proof

 

For clarity sake....

A RECALL is a FEDERALLY MANDATED repair that MUST be completed at zero cost to the customer.

A Campaign is an "action" (labor, parts, both, inspection, etc) that an OEM provides for zero cost to the customer.

A Warranty (vehicles here) is a contract, whereby an OEM or other entity agrees to cover certain repairs either for free or at reduced cost.

A Service Contract is very similar to a Warranty, but covers a more limited repair scope and often includes a deductible.

Goodwill is a Dealer or OEM that extends financial relief towards a repair that is not (or never was) a covered repair, in the interest of good customer relations. These are COMPLETELY discretionary and almost always require financial participation of the dealer and customer.

 

the first time I called the toyota dealer and asked I used the word recall and they said there is no recall on the ABS system and there is no program for a free repair.. i called back the next day and asked about the extended warranty on the system they asked for the vin and said bring it in for a free inspection.. so I warn people not to use the R word

 

You are right to do so. Just because the consumer does not pay, or it's a common issue, does not make any repair a recall.

I should add that "warranty" and "service contract" are "fix-as-fail" repairs. OTOH, a RECALL is where the OEM must contact the customer and arrange for the repair/inspection PRIOR to failure (hopefully).

 

I have a 2005 Prius with 103K miles that is in need of a Brake Actuator Assembly as well which should be covered under WEP ZG1.

It has the red "BRAKE" light on the left side of the instrument panel ON, as well as the yellow "ABS" and "((O))" indicators on the right side of the Instrument Panel.

A friend of mine has a computer with Techstream on it and so we hooked the car up and read the DTCs. It originally showed the C1253 - Hydro-Booster Pump Motor Relay, C1256 - ACCumulator Low Pressure and C1391 - Abnormal Leak of ACC Press DTCs and they were classified as "Current".

Just to make sure, we cleared the codes which also made the lights go out. The lights stayed out when I restarted the car but came back on again after driving for a few miles. We put the computer back on it and it had only the C1391- Abnormal Leak of ACC Press DTC.

Please see my posting at...

2006 Prius ABS control module - ZG1 Salvage Title | PriusChat

for more information. After reading more posts under the various headings I am encouraged that I will get the part replaced even though the car is a salvage.

I hope to hear good news next week!

Thanks

 

!!!! U P D A T E !!!!

I got a call from another service advisor from the dealer on Monday and he said that the Warranty Specialist said that they would honor WEP ZG1 and replace the Brake Actuator Assembly. Yippeee!! He said that he would order the part and get it replaced probably on Tuesday. I thanked him and was looking forward to hearing back from him later Tuesday or today to let me know that the repairs are complete and that I could pick up the car.
Well, I did get a call from the same Service Advisor yesterday afternoon. He said that he got the part in and was going to start working on it but that they (Toyota ?) found out that it was a salvage and that Toyota rejected the repair.
I explained to him that the vehicle has been repaired to operational status and has been in service for almost 10 years. I also told him that I had taken the car into Toyota before and had a number of recall items successfully repaired a few years ago at around 50K miles and the car now has 103K miles on it so it is not like it has not been actively driven.
After all of that he said that maybe I should talk to Toyota Customer Service.
I looked around on the web and there were a lot of postings that said that it is best to try to work out warranty issues directly with the dealership instead of going to Toyota first, but the Service Advisor said that I should talk to Toyota.
The original Service Advisor that I was working with last week was off until today so I am planning on calling him and see if we can get the warranty honored before I call Toyota corporate.
What do you guys think?

Thanks!!

 

a salvage/rebuilt title voids any warrantee even on a brand new car damaged by hail..
lets say they fix the brakes and something else fails in the system you and the person you hit will sue Toyota for damages.
looks like you will have to get a used unit from the junk yard and fix it at your cost.
Id never buy a rebuilt/salvage title car and believe me I look on the insurance auction websites to see whats out there.
but I know they can be a money pit so I don't do it.
its an 05 so it really isn't worth more then 2 grand with a clean title.. I would not dump any money into it unless I got used parts anddo the work myself

good luck

 

I concur. It's in writing in the exclusions section of the warranty and at least here in Texas you can't get full coverage insurance on a salvage title vehicle either.