I must be in the minority - 2010 here with 77k miles. I bought it new in January 2011, though, so I have only owned it for 6-1/2 years. First car I ever owned long enough to pay it off. I find the lack of a car payment rather refreshing - so really considering the oil catch can - was reading up on this last night because I want it to run another 6 years. I have done all the maintenance myself other than the first two "free" oil changes. Only needed tires, transaxle fluid change, several sets of rear brake pads, caliper pins, and pair of rotors (the dragging/sticky calipers are my nemesis on this car).
Have you posted here before regarding the rear brakes? Can't remember. You do need to be very careful with the rears, to ensure the pad on back of inside pad is between the "spokes" on the caliper piston face. Both at reassembly, and after: you want to get it solidly seated thus, before even thinking about using the parking brake. Say install (properly oriented), repeatedly pump brake pedal, reconnect battery neg cable (should be disconnected at the outset), then test drive. Only then use parking brake.
Hehe. Yep - numerous times. I am one of those folks who uses the parking brake once a year (when I am changing the oil). Maybe that's part of my problem.
The rear pads are wearing evenly? You could also raise the rear and just try spinning the wheels: they should go a rotation or two easily.
Could be that too. For the caliper pins be sure to use something like Sil-Glyde Brake lubricant: not silver molybdenum anti-seize: The latter is fine for use with contact points though, like pad to shim to caliper.
Once a year I have had to pull the rear wheels (usually the driver's side) when I notice "the hot smell" after parking in the garage. The smell prompts me to feel the rims to see if one is hot, and one always is when i smell this. It happened again this past April and I chose to replace the pads and rotors this time (rather than just pads and lubricating the caliper pins). I had replaced pads, pins, and boots last summer. When it happens, the pads are unevenly wearing because one side is dragging. If memory serves (and it is possible and even likely that it doesn't), the inner pad ends up with more wear, and the outer edge of the pad material is thinner than the inner edge (closest to rotation axis). And yes, I am always careful to align the pin between the "spokes" of the piston face.
I should have learned my lesson by now. Maybe this weekend i will pull the wheels and make sure everything is still moving freely.
Well, the 2011 from the factory had fixed all the 2010 recalls that were made until the start of 2011 production (there were a bunch) as to post 2011 recalls on an individual car, you would have to check the records.
Our 2010 (bought new Dec 2010) has been great for us for over 130k miles now. Only thing we've done that wasnt general maintenance is had the engine manifold recall performed. Other then that it's been brakes once (at around 100k miles), oil every 10k, plenty of tires, front wheel bearings (again, at about 100k miles, a common wear item with our salty winter roads)... and that's it. Plenty of scratches and such but it's held up well and shows zero rust. We've been payment free for over 2 years now and intend to keep driving it as long as we don't get a major money failure. Here in VT the hybrid system is fully warranties for 10 years and 150k miles.
StephenJ, the original poster, here are my comments based on my past experience as a GM mechanic for 16 years, and my ownership of a 2010 Gen 3 built in 1/2010. Your question is does the 2010 have issues-I would say yes, but every vehicle has issue. That's the beauty of groups like this is to post experiences. As I have read the Gen 2 had issues, others correct me if I am wrong. Issues with gas gauge reliability and consistent fueling due to the bladder style tank. Problems with coolant storage bottles. Problems with the multifunction display. Transmission stator failures. I purchased my 2010 with 60K miles as the 3rd owner. It started its life as a rental vehicle for National rent a car. 2nd owner had it for a year then I purchased it. It was not my intention to purchase a rental car, but the price was right and it appeared to be well cared for. At the time I purchased it I had not heard of or seen the issues with oil consumption. IMO the main issues of oil consumption begin with how the vehicle is operated and maintained. Drive the prius hard and its going to use oil, more than what others will define as normal. Compound that with someone who never checks the oil, and a 4qt reservoir. By the time the oil pressure light warns the driver its low, its been low for enough time to accelerate coking of the rings. Once the rings are coked up there is no magic that will clean them up. Others can try using different additives in the oil or running through the engine to clean things up which may improve but I have never heard them cure this oil control ring sticking. I am now at around 220K miles. I use approximately 1/2qt in 5K miles depending on how much high speed driving I do. I change the oil with Mobil 0-20w every 5K miles. I change transmission fluid every 60K. I changed the coolant for the ICE and inverter at 120K I changed the spark plugs at 192K. Tires every 60K miles. I have replaced a lot of headlight bulbs. Other than regular maintenance issues I have replaced the LR wheel bearing. I commute 130 miles everyday. Part of my drive is a change of 2600ft of elevation, down in the morning, up in the evening. One area of my drive has a 65mph speed limit, the rest is 55 mph max. I typically drive 55-70mph. I could go on more but I think you get the point. I think each generation of the prius has had some issue or issues. I will agree that the 2010 seems more prone to consume oil in certain situations, and I would not want to be buying a vehicle with an issue of oil consumption. Purchasing a 2011 or 2012 would hopefully eliminate this concern. I wish you luck in becoming part of the prius community. I love my car. It does what its supposed to do, and does it well. I fully expect to drive it to 500K miles, like my last vehicle that I sold at 520K miles.