Must Be Fixed! It Is Necessary!

P3190 - Poor engine power
P0113 - Intake air temp to high
P0102 - MAF low imput

P0304 - Cyl 4 missfire
P0302 - Cyl 2 missfire
P0300 Random missfire

ABS "C" codes cant help.

 

@danlatu might have ideas/suggestions.

 

I would assume the motor is toast. At that mileage rebuilding it makes no sense.

Lot more work to rebuild it when you may be able to find a used motor instead.

 

Well it may be necessary to get it fixed......but it is NOT a given that YOU will be able to do that.

Given what you have posted so far, my opinion is that you are wasting time and money.
What if you need to remove the engine completely, do you have access to a large building with an overhead winch ??

Just because you think you can do what is necessary doesn't mean that is really true.
Wrangling around a car engine can be bad for your health too.

 

I'm not sure about the gen2 but there are usually bolts on the bottom of that engine mount that have to come off, timing chain cover has to come off to access the timing chain tensioner. Then there will be enough slack to remove chain. Make sure cylinder #1 is at top dead center and take pics of all the marks of the timing chain. When reassembling this it is important/crucial that it goes back the exact way you removed it. If you are off one tooth. A valve could slap the piston and destroy the motor. I suggest you watch 5 different videos on rebuilding a head and follow the manual to the "T" when it comes to torque specs. Do not reuse the old head bolts. They stretch and are one time use. Read the manual take notes watch the videos and then make a shopping list of the things you need and try to order once. When my head gasket blew, I had 6codes pop, Erased all. rebuild engine, started right up, Zero codes. I cannot help you rebuild the whole head, the write up would take to long, you have a gen2 and there may be things different from the head I rebuild. I do not have the manual for this car.

99% of the questions you have are on youtube.
How to remove a stud.

Have you looked underneath the engine mount, I bet it is a bolt on the bottom.

 

Take the whole motor mount out as you see here, there may be no way to remove the the press fit nut or what ever that is. My motor mount was completely different.

 

Well ... if you look at what valde3 posted for you in that other thread, those are six small excerpts from the repair manual. The first pair of links were to pages 14-104 to 14-111 (pictures for the head gasket task) and 14-112 to 14-119 (instructions for that same task). The next pair linked to pages 17-3 to 17-6 (pictures for the oil pump access task) and 14-87 to 14-91 (instructions for timing chain replacement). The third pair had pages 17-3 to 17-6 again, and pages 17-7 to 17-17 (instructions for oil pump access).

My guess is that valde3 meant the second pair to also have the pictures for timing chain access ... instead of giving you two identical links to the oil pump pictures. But anyway, all of this stuff is straight from the repair manual on techinfo.toyota.com, so if you ever think you're not seeing the page with a particular detail you need on it, you know right where to go to find it. Also, when you're on techinfo, the links work, so when you're following the cylinder head instructions and you see something like "REMOVE CHAIN SUB–ASSY (See page 14–87)" you can just click the blue part and you're there.

In this case, you do have pages 14-87 to 14-91 in another of the links valde3 posted for you, but you have to stop and think and open that other document, where if you were looking at the full manual online you could just click the link (and click back when you're done with the chain, to continue with the head).

As to those videos ... wow ... nothing in them is wrong, but the first one is like you have to watch for 13 minutes to learn some of what you learn just by looking at page 14-89. The video shows looking at the crankshaft pulley timing mark (because the timing cover is on in the video, so you can't see the mark on the crank sprocket). You'll need the timing cover off to replace the head anyway, so you'll have no problem seeing all three sprocket timing marks, just as page 14-89 shows.

The second video is like another 13 minutes of viewing for the same information as the bottom half of page 17-10. And in case you want to try this with the engine in place, so you can't hold the crank still by bolting something to the flywheel as the video shows, page 17-10 shows you how to do it from the front, as you would want. Even if you don't want to buy the exact Toyota special tools, the pictures show you exactly how they look and how they work, so you can improvise your own.

Also, the first video doesn't even mention the very important rules about not turning the crankshaft when the cams are not sync'd, and not turning the unsync'd cams unless the crank is 40° away from dead center. You need to follow those rules carefully until all of the cam bearings are loosened: once the camshafts can float up, all the valves are closed and you can't clobber them with the pistons. Then you can do whatever you want until you are reassembling, but you definitely need to make sure those cam and crank position rules are satisfied at the moment you snug the cam bearings down again, else you may push valves open while a piston's in the way.

So, really, most of the information you need is in the repair manual bits valde3 posted for you. The rest of the information you're likely to need is also in the repair manual, maybe in other bits valde3 didn't happen to post. The videos are ok, but an awfully slow way to get the same information that's in the manual, and they leave important stuff out. IMO, the surest and fastest way to prepare yourself for a complicated job is to just bite the bullet and sign in for the repair manual yourself, so you're not limited to a few half-dozen-page bits other people post for you. Trying to do a major job with only some excerpts from the manual and some youtubes will usually be slower, and riskier because of important information you don't get.

-Chap

 

Your right it’s a wrong link.

Why did PollyDaPrius post this into two different to make it harder to discuss?

But anyways there should be enough information to do the job (combined with enough knowledge). I have done these sorts of jobs for other cars with just torque specks and I’m not a professional.

And like you said more information can be easily had at Toyota techinfo.

 

I just replaced a 149,000 mile 2005 motor that that threw two rods through the side of the block.
The replacement 102,000 mile complete engine ran me $400 plus tax.
I saved the head, both manifolds, front engine cover, two piston assemblies , sensors etc.
If you need any engine parts I can let them go dirt cheap since the likelihood of me ever using them is very slim.
I'm located in tropical Buffalo, NY