Won't run after battery repair

What's your process in fixing the battery? How did you identify the bad module? Did you check all the modules in the battery pack?

 

Curious about the 235 volts. That's smokin' high. There's only 28 modules so that would be 8.4 volts per module. Well above normal voltage.

Maybe a connector got missed during reassembly. Odds are very slim you have true multiple faults. One that commonly gets missed is the one that connects directly under the disconnect switch, but more likely it's one of the other connectors not pushed in completely.

That's my guess as a keyboard warrior.

 

congrats!

 

All the other case to car body bolts were installed except that one? And installing that one cured the problem?

Or did you just have the battery sitting in place for testing with NO case to body bolts installed?

I suppose since the photo shows the battery in place without the case cover, the latter condition would be true. The cover can't be removed until the case to frame bolts are all removed. I think member ericbecky has stated several times on the forum that he always installs a minimum of 2 bolts to ensure the battery case is grounded when he's performing testing. Now we see why.

 

Glad to hear you got it sorted out. And we now have a bit more info for the next person that runs into that problem after working on the battery. I'm sure you weren't the first and won't be the last. But now we've learned a bit and can help faster.

 

Yes, Yes Yes! This is so true and so simple. I had the red car light and the hybrid battery contractors were not engaging, grounding is important

 

In my case guys, the battery was all connected correctly and still the dash has all the lights displaying. At worst the car also will not start. I would really love the help on this one.

 

1. check your 12v battery to make sure it has enough juice to start the car
2. Make sure your hv battery orange interlock is locked into place properly

 

Here's the thing about the 12V battery. I checked the volts on a multimeter when disconnected from the car. It read 12.4 V and when I have it connected and the car turned on it reads 11.4 V and sometimes different. Would you say the battery is working properly?

Second, I have a 2007 Prius and I pulled the HV battery out and replaced 2 modules. When I put the battery back in the car and confirmed all bolts are on and the orange interlock was secured. The car showed this in the picture. The funny thing is I pulled out the battery again and turned the car on and the same dash lights came on. I would think this would mean the HV battery was not making contact with the 12V or computer system to the car. Idk.. Your thoughts.

 

1. You should think about charging the 12v battery and then have it load tested for free at any auto shop. It may be weak, but I don't think that's your issue for now.

2. Have you bolted down the battery to the car? Or it's just sitting there without any bolts in place? It won't work unless there are some bolts bolting it down for the ground.

 

Here is the pics from the 12V. Starting from battery disconnected- 12.27V , When the battery is connected and car not running- 12.13V, the battery when car is turned on- 11.81V

 

I will try charging the battery and I can try to get it to a shop.

I have the Aux battery bolted down with the casing that comes with the car. I can try to tighten them really tight. I just have a weird thing going on with the positive side that has the red fuse/relay box. I always have to unplug the battery to see the dash lights or sometimes pull out the power clip from the fuse/relay box. Then the car would start with everything working properly. Of I am talking before I worked on the Hybrid battery.

 

Here's the thing about the 12V battery. Check the quiesced current draw, it should be anything from 500 mA to 20 mA, depending on the stage of quiescence.

If you find the quiescent current draw is within spec and you saw the voltage difference on a multimeter between disconnected from the car and connected to the car was a whole volt (or more) different, then I would be suspecting the battery needs replacement.

If the quiescent draw is significantly higher than above, you will need to track down the source of the parasitic drain, otherwise, you will forever be changing the 12 V battery.

 

I just replaced a couple modules in the Hybrid battery and arranged them so the middle of the battery would be the highest in voltage.I made sure I tested the full battery and read 213.0 V. After reinstalling the battery in the car the car will not start the engine. I get a reading on ODMII the Aux battery is 11.6 V. At this point would you say replacing the battery should start the car or do you think I have other problems going on?