How to Change Front Map Lights.

Thanks Mark. I have been through this thread about three times, I must have been dismissing that video as something else, senior moment Dam idiot I am, it looks so easy when you know how. You can see how the lense clips come off so easily from the right direction, not that you actually need them off unless you are fitting that Japanese flood light in the other video, I'm not sure I would want that on while travelling.
And thanks to Alkoller for sorting out the wires I need for my Dash cam, saves poking around with the multimeter.
I intend to put the 12v to 5v power unit up in the headlining, it uses a mini usb and feeding the wire down to the screen behind the mirror.

 

Agreed, its a great video and the one I followed to install my bulbs. When you do the overhead light just be sure you get your pry tool between the clear lens and the body of the light and not behind the whole lamp assembly like I did initially when I first put my pry tool in.

This is the one which I was dreading as it all sounded really flimsy when I watched the video, but I was surprised how easily it all popped apart.

 

I had to remove the whole unit as I needed to find a power feed for my dash cam, not the neatest setup, with the traffic sign camera and sensor mounted behind the mirror and with the blanked off glass around them it needed to be mounted to the side to get a clear view. A bit obstructed view to the passenger side. Works well though.

 

Fitting a Dash Cam
Update on Alkolla's wiring.
I found out the hard way, the green wire is not the earth (-ve). Wondered why the dash cam kept turning on/off. It was not getting enough power from the 12 to 5v power supply I had wired in. The green wire allows the lights to gently power up/down.
Pulled the dome light assembly down again, (yes it comes out easier after the first time) and delved around the main large plug with the volt meter. The RED is 12v +ve but you need the WHITE wire which is EARTH -ve. Mind as there is a black and white wire so double check, also the small plug has the same colours on it , but the wires are a smaller gauge. I connected with red PositTaps the smallest.
So after moving the green to the white and testing thoroughly it works. This time I wrapped the wires and power unit in foam, as I noticed I had a vibration coming from the roof. A piece of power cable on the end of the camera plug helps feed it through the roof void and out the headliner. The headliner edge just butts up to the metal so you could come out almost anywhere. I also found the plastic pry bars are not up to the job of getting the whole light down, ok to feel your way around. I needed a metal bar for the extra leverage as in the last picture, coming in from this point saves the headliner from dents where it is soft at the front. Get the bar up and as far up inside to get on top of the light assembly or you will damage thin the plastic rim. Pictures this time

 

One suggestion. Use a "clean" sock around your prybar to keep your headliner clean.

You've got to do laundry more often. Just kidding.

 

How dare you! It's my best oily rag. Actually it's dried paint. Looking back at the photos its not the best example.
I would never use my best socks, they would spoil the lining

 

At least they weren't knickers.

 

No they go on Ebay