Prius C - Worn Keyfob/Remote Buttons -- Repair?

Discussion in 'Prius c Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by MannySwol, Feb 6, 2017.

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  1. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    Having issues with the unlock & lock buttons on the keyfob.

    It's as if the outer shell buttons aren't making good enough contact with the internal switches.

    Everything works great without the shell... when I have the guts in my hand.. pressing the buttons on the rubber membrane directly.

    It's as if someone has worn and the tolerances seem pretty tight.

    Has anyone dealt with this and found a solid fix?

    I've thought about getting some strong glue and applying just a pinprick amount to the inner portion of the outer buttons... but don't really want to go this route. It will be extremely easy to apply too much then I'm stuck sanding it back...
     
    #1 MannySwol, Feb 6, 2017
  2. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    Ah crap, think I put this in the wrong board. Sorry guys.
     
    #2 MannySwol, Feb 6, 2017
  3. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    I'll move it. Just press the "(!) Report" button and a short sentence explaining what needs to be done.
     
    #3 Tideland Prius, Feb 6, 2017
  4. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    So I don't think it is the Keyfob switches... nor is it the battery.

    I don't get it. I take the remote apart, put it back together.. it works fine for a few weeks.. then the buttons start working intermittently.. to almost not at all.

    Are there any quick repairs for these keyfobs? I'm clueless.
     
    #4 MannySwol, Mar 7, 2017
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    do you only have one fob?

    how long have you owned it?

    when did it start acting up?
     
    #5 bisco, Mar 7, 2017
  6. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    Have to check.. I forget if I have a second fob.. be nice to salvage this one.

    Owned the car since early 2013... started acting up several months ago.

    Replaced/checked battery..
     
    #6 MannySwol, Mar 7, 2017
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if the battery is 3.3 volts, and the contacts are clean, and you don't have a second fob, maybe a new fob off ebay and swap the guts.
     
    #7 bisco, Mar 7, 2017
    everdave likes this.
  8. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    It probably IS....the little carbon pads that actually make the contact.
    Since you already know how to take it apart, try cleaning the contacts on the circuit board AND the part of the "rubber" pad that contacts them with rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip.
    This should be done with the battery OUT.
    Blow dry before putting back together (not with heat !!)

    P.S. It is VERY important that you find that second remote.
    If the only one you have goes completely bad, it can be VERY expensive to get a new one working again.
     
    #8 Sam Spade, Mar 7, 2017
  9. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    I DID find the second keyfob...

    As for the cranky one.. I think the "guts" are where the problem lies.

    I have not dug deep into the keyfob yet... now that I have the second, I may do that. So far I have replaced battery, cleaned battery contacts.... there has to be a wear point, but just not sure where that is.
     
    #9 MannySwol, Mar 7, 2017
  10. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    In most cases it isn't really wear but contamination.
    OIL from your fingers works it's way around the rubber seals and coats the contact points.
    Sometimes there is a bit of contamination left over from the manufacturing process that migrates over time.
     
    #10 Sam Spade, Mar 8, 2017
  11. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    OK, so the 2nd keyfob started exhibiting the problem almost instantly... So it doesn't appear to be an wear issue, maybe an age issue? Maybe it is this combined w/ my tendency to push the button multiple times to "make sure"? OCD perhaps..

    Anyhow.. took the 1st keyfob apart.. removed battery, cleaned everything i felt comfortable cleaning/accessing with rubbing alcohol... everything else, I blew out with compressed air. tested battery at 3.13v, put it back in.

    The only idea I have is that the innards are being slowly pushed "back"... and then the external switches aren't making good contact... so I folded up some small pieces of paper and put it up against the battery.. making a tighter fit for the guts of the key.

    Key works great now, but it always does once i disassemble/reassemble.
     
    #11 MannySwol, Mar 9, 2017
  12. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    At this point, with two fobs failing in a similar manner........you need to consider that your 12 V battery is failing or it has loose or corroded connections. Also could be the receiver module in the car I guess.
     
    #12 Sam Spade, Mar 10, 2017
  13. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    I'd be with you.. were it not for the fact that the key can act completely dead... Then once I take the outer casing of the key off.., put it back on and that is enough to make it work perfectly again for a few weeks... then repeat.
     
    #13 MannySwol, Mar 10, 2017
  14. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    Are you familiar with Mr. Murphy ? ;)
    Coincidences can lead you down the wrong path.

    Find a locksmith who does key fob remotes.
    It is possible that both of your FOBs are worn out.
    Since you have both of them a new one from a locksmith is relatively inexpensive.
     
    #14 Sam Spade, Mar 10, 2017
  15. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    This problem keeps coming back...

    I believe I've tracked it to the battery compartment in the remote. It's like the battery works its way loose over time, not sure.

    Anyone encounter this issue and find a reliable fix?
     
    #15 MannySwol, Jun 28, 2017
  16. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    Just like the remote for your TV or cable box, with enough use "things" wear out over time.

    Each failure might have a different cause.

    Which is why I recommended a locksmith who works on them all the time.
     
    #16 Sam Spade, Jun 28, 2017
  17. Sean Nelson

    Sean Nelson Active Member

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    If I suspected an issue with the battery in the fob, then I'd:

    1) Replace the battery with a fresh one
    2) Make sure the contacts are all clean and free of contamination
    3) Bend the little spring-loaded metal prongs in an attempt to make them apply more contact force to the battery
     
    #17 Sean Nelson, Jun 28, 2017
  18. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    Thanks.. I've done all these things and more. The remote will work for a few hours to a few weeks, then slowly start to exhibit these issues.

    I've suspected failing switches, failing batteries, loose connections, etc. I've cleaned, taped, padded, tightened, etc., etc. Nothing consistently works.

    At this point, I'd suspect the 12V battery... but even that doesn't make total sense... because I can take the remote apart, put it together and it starts working again for a time...

    Lately, this is the usual setup.


    - Wake up... If I hit the unlock/lock buttons they won't work. After about 15-20 presses, they then start to work every single time after this.

    - OR.. If I unlock the car manually without using the remote buttons, drive the car, get out, the lock button will work on the first try and every single try after.


    It's almost like something in the remote needs energized or "warmed" up.. which makes no sense, I realize this. Maybe there is simply a bad connection somewhere.. but I'm having this problem with both remotes. I'd hate to change the 12V for no reason, but this seems like a fair culprit... were it not for the simple act of disassemble/reassemble making a real difference.
     
    #18 MannySwol, Jul 6, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2017
  19. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    Multi-meters are cheap and relatively easy to use.
    You don't NEED to change it "for no reason".
     
    #19 Sam Spade, Jul 6, 2017
  20. MannySwol

    MannySwol Junior Member

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    Sorry, was under the impression that the use of a multimeter checking for voltage is not comparable to a load test.. though I assume if voltage is low under no load.. it'd be low with a load.
     
    #20 MannySwol, Jul 6, 2017
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