2005 Prius will not start after replacing 12 volt battery

If you jump started the car incorrectly, you could have blown a big fuse that's very difficult to replace.....

For now, try checking the voltage on the new battery, make sure it's not drained. You can try jump starting it again too

If it starts with the jump start, then your new battery needs to be charged

 

if you have blown fuses you have a short somewhere, Id guess when you jumped it you shorted something out..maybe hooked the cables up backwards..its doesn't take much to fry these cars..

have you checked ALL the fuses in both boxes? (under the hood and under the dashboard)..

there is a large main fuse in the box under the hood that does not look like the others. has a silver strip in it clear cover. (see picture)


Id go to an auto parts store and buy a $75 code reader then look up the error codes on line..
double check the connections to the 12 volt battery and where the black wire attached to the body, make sure you didn't disconnect or damage the wires or connectors around the battery.

you might want to check for animal damage to the wires under the car and in the engine area.

honestly it can be anything from a .50 fuse to a $3000 computer

good luck

 

As previously suggested, given the presence of two blown fuses, it is highly likely that one of two possible actions occurred:

1. Either the last jumpstart performed was botched due to the application of reverse polarity, or
2. When the new battery was installed, the battery cables were reversed.

Check the 5" long fusible link pictured in post #3 above. If you see a blown link within, the entire link assembly must be replaced, and that is not a simple DIY project.

Assuming that all blown fuses have been replaced, if the car still does not start, then it is likely that the DC/DC converter within the inverter was destroyed due to the botched jumpstart. That will result in a high four-digit repair bill for a new inverter to be installed at your local Toyota dealer. An alternate approach is to have a used inverter installed as the cost of the used part will be in the low three digit range.

 

I forgot to ask what fuses were blown, that's the obvious areas of the car to check first, did the blow again when the battery was reinstalled?

 

Looks like this troubleshooting string is right in the area that I am having issues.It would be great if I was able to get a few of your thoughts.

About 1 week ago, My 2005 Pruis battery was dead enough where it would not start. 2 days ago, I jumped the car and it started. I drove the car a few miles and all seemed to work well. And No error codes.

Note: I jumped the car at the 12 V battery in the back, not under the hood. (Not sure if this is an issue).

The next day, the car would not start and it would not jump. I removed the battery and charged it at a 2 AMP rate for about 12 hours until the battery charger indicated that the battery was 100% charged.

Nothing seems to work when pressing the start button. No lights or sign of attempting to start. The data link does not work to see if there are any error codes.

This is the Original battery, the voltage across the terminals (after my 12 hour 2 amp charge) currently reads 12.8Vdc while connected in the car.
Under the hood at the 12V nut (under the red cap) in the fuse box reads 12.3Vdc to Chassis.
Horn works, Head lights turn on, car can remotely be locked and unlocked. And will engage and disarm the alarm.
But nothing else
The long fuse next to the red cap has not signs of burnt marks as if it was blown.

I am not sure where to go troubleshoot next. Is there a reset, fuse or some secrete sequence that I need to walk through so that I can wake the computer up? any ideas?

Finally:
Just as a note to help with any feedback, I believe that I am pretty competent with working on cars. I just do don't understand all of the Pruis idiosyncrasies and short cuts to troubleshooting.
Although, based on my auto experience, I do not think I incorrectly connected or charged the battery, however, anyone can make a mistake. I think I was pretty cautious.

As an FYI, I previously changed one of the cells in my HV battery reasembled, installed, and had the car working about 2 years ago. Since then I have replaced the whole HV battery pack (unit) and it was working fine.
I have also recently replace the Inverter water pump and had the car running after that repair.

Today, I did order a new battery because the original is 12 years old. I should get it within 3 - 4 days.
Any idea on what I should do next?

Hope you can help.
Regards.

 

Can you get the codes read?

 

I have the meters and capability but No. "Link is missing"

 

I guess we'll just have to wait for the new battery.

You should be able to read codes, maybe the code reader you have is an issue?

 

yes I think your correct on the battery ( need a new one anyway) but is just odd that I am not getting some signs of life.
I have 2 code readers (long story) but they have both recently worked.and I was able to previously read and reset (after repair) the error code to the Inverter water pump failure.
15 minutes ago, I also tried to reset the codes without the ignition on... again "No Link" was the feedback.

I not familiar enough with the system to know if there is a unique condition that has the system locked out.
With power under the hood it seems that i would at least get some lights or triangle...

FYI, I did try to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to reset the computer. Re-connected.... no change.

Anyway appreciate the feedback.
Let me know if something else comes to mind otherwise I will report back in a few days and let you know one way or the other.
I ordered the battery through Amazon.... Hopefully that will do the trick.

Thanks again.

 

I'm thinking battery issue, since it's 12 years old

 

Thanks for the help. I will wait for the new battery.

On a side note: If I check the battery tomorrow night and it does not have at least 12 volts. ie.It is discharging quickly then maybe shorting or something telling the computer to not start ... Will wait before i speculate too much.

Thanks again for your quick feedback and thoughts.

Regards.

 

It is a very good idea to replace the original battery. However while you are waiting to receive the new battery, a few thoughts for you to consider:

How bright are the headlights when you turn them on? Are they at normal brightness; or are they relatively dim?

I am concerned that you measured 12.8V at the battery, but only 12.3V at the dedicated jumpstart terminal. I assume that both measurements were taken with the car IG-OFF, doors and hatch closed.

If my assumption is correct, the 0.5V drop is very large considering that very little current is being drawn when the car is IG-OFF. Check the tightness of the battery cables at the battery and also check the tightness of the negative cable where it bolts to the body. If you have substantial resistance in the cables, that will not help.

If you see any corrosion, clean that off (for example, where the negative cable attaches to the body.) You need to make sure the battery cable connections are perfect.

A loss of 0.5V, assuming quiescent current draw of 0.02A, implies that there is 25 ohms of resistance between the battery and the dedicated jumpstart terminal, based upon Ohm's Law. That is a huge amount. If only 0.5A of current is trying to flow, the battery voltage will drop to zero at the dedicated jumpstart terminal.

 

Thanks for the feedback Patrick,
A couple answers to your comments.
How bright are the headlights when you turn them on? Are they at normal brightness; or are they relatively dim?
They seem normal after I had charged the battery for 12 hours yesterday. I will observe closer tomorrow.

I am concerned that you measured 12.8V at the battery, but only 12.3V at the dedicated jumpstart terminal. I assume that both measurements were taken with the car IG-OFF, doors and hatch closed.
IG-OFF but back hatch was probably open. I can recheck tomorrow and ensure lights are off during measurement.

If my assumption is correct, the 0.5V drop is very large considering that very little current is being drawn when the car is IG-OFF. Check the tightness of the battery cables at the battery and also check the tightness of the negative cable where it bolts to the body. If you have substantial resistance in the cables, that will not help.
Cables are tight on battery. Will check the neg cable to the chassis (chassis connection was not previously removed).
I would think there is some drop due to the alarm system but agree should be very small.
Note: The battery did discharge within 24 hours after I jumped and started it 3 days ago. However, since I charged the dead battery yesterday on a slow charge (2A) for over 12 hours, I did not get any sign of an attempt to start.
I am just wondering, if the battery shorts in such a way, that when put under a load (like to start) it quickly indicates a fault to the computer (shorts)... But I am just guessing. I think that if I could put a load on the battery and check, that would tell... but i do not have that equipment. And, as you mentioned, I need a new battery anyway.

If you see any corrosion, clean that off (for example, where the negative cable attaches to the body.) You need to make sure the battery cable connections are perfect.
Absolutely no corrosion seen anywhere. As far as perfect.... these are about as clean (or cleaner) as I have seen on any of my other cars. But, I will check again tomorrow.

A loss of 0.5V, assuming quiescent current draw of 0.02A, implies that there is 25 ohms of resistance between the battery and the dedicated jumpstart terminal, based upon Ohm's Law. That is a huge amount. If only 0.5A of current is trying to flow, the battery voltage will drop to zero at the dedicated jumpstart terminal.
We have the flashing alarm light in the dash on and the rear hatch open, but I may of had the rear light off. I will recheck tomorrow.

Thanks for your thoughts and feedback.

 

I've got a similar problem. Please how did this end?

 

Same issue! Just replaced 12v. Fob locks/unlocks doors,, interior lights on but engine won't fire. Would love to know if Bob resolved his issue.

 

Everything worked before you replaced the 12v?

Either there's a loose connection or your 12v is not charged up

 

unplug the white connector on the black box next to the 12 volt battery for about 30 seconds than plug it back in and start as normal... I don't know what it resets but I found it to work on my 08 when this happened.. if not try disconnecting the negative at the body and reconnect after 30 seconds, it will spark when you touch the wire to the body..

 

When I replaced the 12v battery in my 2004 Prius, there were some sparks and nothing worked well. I just disconnected the negative lead at the Prius body for a moment and reconnected it as noted above. All was well after the reset (redoing the Radio presets and resetting the "auto" functioning of the drivers side window we also required).

JeffD