Engine knock after IM and EGR pipe cleaning

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Jiwanowski, Jun 21, 2017.

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  1. Jiwanowski

    Jiwanowski Junior Member

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    2010 Prius Model II 200k on the engine. CEL came on for P0401 EGR flow restricted. After following the removal and cleaning procedure for the EGR pipe the CEL went off and came back on a couple days later with the same code. I then went on a more thorough cleaning spree. Pulled off the EGR pipe again, cleaned the EGR valve as best I could without removing it from the vehicle and cleaned the intake manifold. I used a full can of carb cleaner on the IM and it looked much better than before. I also went ahead and cleaned the Throttle Body while I had easy access to it. I made sure to reconnect everything and made sure everything was installed nice and tight. I didn't use a torque wrench to get to proper specs so that could explain my issue but wanted to see what other thoughts there are on my new symptoms...

    When I started the car for the first time after cleaning and reassembling, the motor was making some unusual noises, I would say its a knocking with really violent vibration and possible misfire. It lasted for a few seconds and then cleared up, I assumed it was just a little moisture that was left from the cleaning. I took the car for a 5 mile test drive and everything seemed fine. The car was parked for 2 days, I got in it today to go for a drive and the knocking was back and today threw a misfire code. The knocking seems to come and go intermittently but I have no idea why. Has anyone had a similar situation or have any ideas what might be the issue here. I'm usually very good with DIY car repairs but this one isn't making much sense to me.
     
    #1 Jiwanowski, Jun 21, 2017
  2. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    did you sprayed a full can of carb cleaner into the Intake manifold or did you spray it onto a rag and wipe away the gunk on the intake manifold?

    If you sprayed a full can into the intake manifold, it will cause the engine to run rich, which will and can cause a knocking noise. do you know which cylinder is misfired?
     
    #2 NutzAboutBolts, Jun 21, 2017
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    MAF sensor might also have contamination?

    With 200K, the EGR cooler is likely also clogged badly?
     

    Attached Files:

    #3 Mendel Leisk, Jun 21, 2017
  4. tankyuong

    tankyuong Senior Member

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    you need to clean the egr cooler too
     
    #4 tankyuong, Jun 21, 2017
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  5. Jiwanowski

    Jiwanowski Junior Member

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    I really didn't want to do the EGR cooler... I really can't see how to get in there to get access to the lower bolt midway down the cooler. I had hoped that I could get the EGR valve off the cooler but that also seemed to be impossible due to the bolt placement.

    NutzAboutBolts, I did spray into the intake manifold while I had it removed from the car. I pretty much soaked it in carb cleaner and made sure all the desolved carbon build up came out. I left it sitting out to dry for a bit, maybe a half hour or so. I know carb cleaner usually evaporates very quickly so by the time everything was put back together it should have been dry. I do however worry that not everything came out or that there are still some blockages inside the manifold. The ports going into the engine were pretty gunked up, those I used a rag with carb cleaner on to clean up a bit. I didn't go nuts on it but did clean them up a bit. Not sure about which cylinder is misfiring yet. I'm hoping to run by advance auto tomorrow to get them to read the codes again.
     
    #5 Jiwanowski, Jun 21, 2017
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I haven't done it, but I believe you have to remove the wipers/motor/cowl first. You might also consider doing an engine coolant change at the same time. I believe besides regular tools, the only extra you need is an E8 Torx socket, for the stud style fasteners. Look at the attachment I posted above for more info on the cooler fasteners and torque specs, review @NutzAboutBolts video on spark plug change (for wiper, motor, cowl removal) and also he has a video engine coolant change.

    @Raytheeagle has made a video regarding his last egr cooler swap, I believe he's making another soon.
     
    #6 Mendel Leisk, Jun 21, 2017
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  7. Lightning Racer

    Lightning Racer Active Member

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    You should be able to reach that nut with the wiper cowl off. While sprawled out over the engine, reach in from behind the cooler then under, and feel where that nut and stud is. Put a socket with an extension on that (try different lengths... I think I used a 3-inch, but it might have been a 6-inch). Then thread your socket wrench down between the hoses and wires down to the extension.
     
    #7 Lightning Racer, Jun 22, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
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  8. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Access isn't easy, but doable;).

    Saturday's the day for the video(y).
     
    #8 Raytheeagle, Jun 22, 2017
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  9. Jiwanowski

    Jiwanowski Junior Member

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    I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. If it works out that would be awesome. If not I'll wait until the video is posted and try again. I've got a buddy coming by to help and between the two of us we should be able to get this fixed.
     
    #9 Jiwanowski, Jun 22, 2017
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  10. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I used to live in Chester:)! Good luck with your project(y).
     
    #10 Raytheeagle, Jun 22, 2017
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Ray, are you typically just plugging the coolant lines when removing the cooler? How does that work out when reconnected: can the system "burp out" that amount of air introduced, without any extra measures?
     
    #11 Mendel Leisk, Jun 22, 2017
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  12. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    Do you have a spare EGR cooler that you can clean out in the mean time? It took me almost a week of 1-3 chemical soaks a day before I was satisfied with my spare. My EGR cooler at 70k miles looked just like my spare was. Your EGR cooler at 200k miles must be completely plugged.

    One thing I did that greatly helped was do a chemical soak with one end of the cooler plugged. Between chemical soaks I rinsed it out with one end plugged. I rinsed by alternating with a hot fill, giving it a good shake while it was emptying, a cold fill, and lots of shaking while emptying. I probably spent a few hours doing this and carbon just kept coming out...

    Or I heard you can take the cooler to a mechanic shop that has an ultrasonic bath cleaner and pick it up the next day.
     
    #12 mjoo, Jun 22, 2017
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  13. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Made plugs for the first try at the cooler swap using wine corks that I tapered to fit. Lost about 1-2 ounces of coolant that way.

    When doing @m.wynn 's cooler swap, did not plug them and lost about 3-4 ounces.

    The key is to drain the coolant and the mess is minimal;).

    As for bleeding of air, it is just like the engine coolant drain. For the 2010 and 2011 models, there is a high point bleed just above the cooler. Did not use it either time. Was able to get the air out every time. Shouldn't be an issue.

    Great questions(y).
     
    #13 Raytheeagle, Jun 22, 2017
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