Before I start pulling my hybrid battery. I have these codes: C1259 HV System Regenerative Malfunction C1310 Malfunction in HV system P3015 Battery Block 5 Becomes Weak P3016 Battery Block 6 Becomes Weak C1310 Malfunction in HV system P3000 HV Battery Malfunction P0A80 Replace Hybrid Battery Pack The battery fan is on non-stop, have the typical slow acceleration (actually went in to limp mode). Had poor gas mileage (~mid 30's just attributed it to being cold out) and what felt like a slightly sticky caliper prior to the lights coming on. Battery SOC shows very rapid charge and discharge. Anything else other than the battery come to mind? The 12v appears to be good and there is turbulence in the inverter coolant reservoir. Thanks!
As the old saying goes, if it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it's probably a duck. You've got all the symptoms of hybrid battery failure, from poor fuel economy to bouncing battery levels to fan always on to the actual error codes. Sorry to say, it's time to either replace the hybrid battery or get a different car.
I am going to hazard to guess that this is about the easiest major repair to do on this car! Took about 10 mins to get it out (with air tools). Probably take me 3x as long to put it back together. Unfortunately I wont be able to get a refurb battery until Monday so I may take it apart and test the cells this weekend. 16265877_10150774645164996_3236716836823402916_n by channing watson posted Jan 26, 2017 at 4:53 PM 16195555_10150774645159996_7333753551759762994_n by channing watson posted Jan 26, 2017 at 4:53 PM
Thanks! I just thought I would post the removal pictures. There is still a lot of fear out there about doing this, I got quoted 850$ for removal and installation from a local mechanic. Told me it was super dangerous and could explode if removed improperly! I am pretty mechanically inclined but if you can change a brake caliper you can take the EV battery out IMHO.
be careful taking it apart, there is a method so as not to die from electrocution. and high voltage gloves are recommended by some.
I'm experienced with electricity and have the proper PPE, so what scared me most about changing my battery was lifting it, bent over in the back of the car. An extra back would make that part safer. It's light enough you don't really need the help, but it's a bad position.
yeah, I put down a piece of plywood I had sitting around and a rubber mat to cover the spare tire area and gently slid it over to where it was easier to lift
Additionally, when putting it back together be sure to properly torque all the electrical connections to Toyota specs. Seen some bad stuff happen from too much torque (sheared bolts) or too little torque (arcing/fire)
I wish I had time to rebuild it. I will probably keep an eye out for a bad battery locally to rebuild so that I have an extra just sitting around
Well you don't have to rebuild the cells, you can just pop in individual replacement cells. Swapping out your used HV battery pack for other used HV pack is about like have 1 lightbulb go bad in your house and ordering 28 used replacements. You should also get a mini vci (for laptop), or bluetooth obd (for android) if you don't already have one.
For the record and newbies, it's "modules" not "cells" that are replaced. There are six cells in each module which isn't serviceable (openable) under normal circumstances so one can't replace an individual bad cell. hope this helps
This is rather simplistic advice. Also the analogy is bad, because swapping a light bulb is not like swapping a battery module. While I agree with what I believe to be the gist of what the poster is saying, this thread puts what is involved nice and succinctly: Can I save my 07 Prius? | Post # 30 | PriusChat If you read from this post on, I think you get a good idea. You can go back and read from the beginning to get context, but Brad pretty much knows what he's talking about. hope this helps.
Ended up getting a rebuilt battery. We will see how long it lasts. It has a good bit more voltage difference between the pairs in techstream than my old one did (minus the one bad cell). old one was within .18, this one started out with .4 max difference but after driving for 150 miles is down to .2 or so. Gas mileage for the mixed driving trip was 52, delta SOC is 0%. internal resistance varies between .22 and .24
I don't agree with the light bulb analogy. In tear I use a really rusted chain as the analogy. If one link in the rusted chain is broken, replacing the one link is not going to fix the rest of the rusted chain. It will only be a matter of time before another link in the chain breaks. Better to replace the entire rusted chain at once with a known good one.
I also do not agree with the light bulb analogy. Think of it as a loaf of bread with mold gathering, taking out a slice and putting a new slice is not going to stop the mold from spreading throughout the entire loaf. Once a module fails, you are on borrowed time until the next one goes...much better to get a fully revitalized battery replacement with a warranty.