DRLs for '12 Prius v

Thank you for the tip on error codes. When I installed the alarm and remote start, I had an issue when I put the kick panel back in. When I took it off, everything was fine. It was a loose connector. Someone on eBay helped me by telling me to check my connections. Now my eBay MVCI is not working because I had the idiot idea to try to transfer it to a newer computer and it only came with XP drivers.

SCH-R530M ?

 

Oh dear, these two pins stick into the fender...


SCH-R530M ?

 

Thank you! I'm really not sure, but I may have to remove the inverter coolant, which would require techstream upon refilling the coolant to get the bubbles out. Oh well. I'll keep you guys updated....

SCH-R530M ?

 

I am stuck on removing the bottom bolt on the fuse box. It is covered by a plastic piece that I can't figure out how to remove. I have to get the bottom/third bolt out in order to slide the box in the direction of the passenger side as the two pins that sick in the fender are connected to the mid/main section of the box that I need to lift up. It is so crowded with hoses and wires I may need to purchase the little cover to find a way to remove it without breaking it.

To be continued.....

SCH-R530M ?

 

Wow, that is a lot of lights! There are so many there I actually got a little confused as to what you were referring to in your notes. So the eagle eye/halo lights are still there with the multi-color LEDs in the center? Were you able to get the bulb out of the headlight? My son has a "rubber" pencil that bends and contorts in all sorts of shapes. If that happened to me I'd "borrow" it and wrap masking tape on the eraser, slink it in there and try to stick the tip and pull it out. (I'm sure it'd be a nightmare of a job.) For other vehicles putting the housing in the oven for a little seems to loosen the glue that holds the pieces together. (I've never done this personally, but I heard it works.) The halo lights look pretty bright compared to the Philips in the first picture. Maybe they don't look as good from an angle? It's strange but seeing that another person had an issue, (as you have dropped the bulb inside the light,) has given me some motivation to pick up where I left off...

But, I may just give up. As I started I WAS thinking I could lift up the front of the fuse box 90 degrees to be able to work underneath since the rear of the box has a huge harness coming out of it, and another on the side towards the rear. I don't want to move the large harness much, but I've realized that the harness coming out of the front may/will hinder me doing that. I don't want to be messing with what's underneath without a good view of what I am working on, as there are a lot of wires underneath there. As the car sits in it's current state I may start to forget how to put things back together. (I took a picture to help remind me of where things go, but still.) I haven't even opened the used Canadian Prius v fuse box that I got. The good thing I noted from that is that all the wire ties can remain intact and you can separate the middle from the bottom without cutting any of them. For the Prius c fuse box I got last year I had to clip at least one of the wire ties, but that is probably one of the least of your worries anyways.

On the side/As a possible alternative I have been interested in the Sylvania ZEVO FOG Daytime Running Light unit from here:



ZEVO FOG Daytime Running Light



Functionality wise I think they would be comparable to the Philips you have installed, meaning they auto adjust/turn off when you turn on your parking lights or headlights. This is a plus to me. I can only find them on sale outside of the US, and I'm not sure I want to be dealing with that. (Supposedly they are to be sold on amazon.com but so far not yet.) My main concerns are:

Will it fit in the place of the stock fog lights without having to modify the mounting, ie. can I just take out the original fog lights and the unit will fit and I just screw it in? I found doing some digging that the ZEVO units seem to be 90 mm diameter. I don't know about the stock ones, but you still have to worry about the position of the mounting tabs/holes.

Will it cause a bulb out error in the car as the fog light bulb will switch from incandescent to LED? (I'm assuming you may have encountered this as you've replaced your stock fogs with LEDs?)

On top of all this my son is now out for the summer, which leaves me with much less time to work on the car. Hopefully I can start up again when his summer school starts in a couple of/few weeks, or maybe get him to help me....

 

BTW- The Sylvania ZEVO FOG Daytime Running Light has an alias in other countries as OSRAM LEDriving Fog DRL Go figure.

For all those fathers out there, (or possibly wives looking for a father's day gift,) so far the cheapest I've found is here:

OSRAM LEDriving Fog DRL Kit | PowerBulbs

With code FATHER20 you get it at $356.20. They also have free OSRAM W5W bulbs with any purchase over $25, so you get those too. On top of that is free worldwide shipping. (This has got my mouse finger itching to click the the mouse button. Note that the FATHER20 code works until 16/6/14 23:00 BST, whatever that means here in the US.)

 

Thanks xliderider! I currently have about 14.5 hours to make a decision on the OSRAMs as that seems to be when time is up on the 20% discount.

I guess I'm kind of picky. I do not want to sacrifice my fog lights, so the dual function seems to fit well for me. I had taken the car to Best Buy, and they weren't willing to deal with the fuse box without me consenting to no type of warranty. They do seem willing to install an aftermarket product like these. At least if I have an issue they would be able to help in this case. The only thing about them is that I like my fog lights yellow. I highly doubt I can get them yellow with the OSRAM unit.

I found this compatibility list doing some digging:

http://www.osram.com/media/resource/HIRES/384466/1354554/application-list-ledriving-fog.pdf

While it doesn't list the Prius v, it does list Corolla. The installation instructions I found note that the pictured mounting bracket may be different for different car models, so I'm not sure what that means. I just sent them a note as they are not open right now....

(I'm so tired right now I think I'll just sleep on it...)

 

I had sent a message to the store with the OSRAM unit, and the quick response noted I would need a special bracket that would cost an extra 30 pounds, and it would take 2 weeks for them to get. I asked how to order with the discount and got no response, so the time has lapsed. I guess I'm not going that route for now. I guess my only concern with the unit you point out is how well they work. I always hear about weak LEDs, aka "you get what you pay for." Everything you say is great, except I am still part way through disassembly and am just sitting on it. I keep thinking 6 wires, 3 most likely plug and play, one ground, one to solder/crimp, and one run to the ECU (two solders/crimps). I think I'll have to drain out the inverter coolant, then disconnect the hoses from the reservoir, to make room to access the bottom bolt.... (It's kind of horrible the way I was brought up. I am always second guessing myself...)

Anyways, I tried these instructions, and bravely merged the Registry section provided into my Windows Registry, (read REALLY, REALLY RISKY,) and it seems to have worked. I had followed all the other steps and they seemed to be accurate. Before the registry merge with the provided .zip extracted file I could not select the XHorse mVCI, and afterwards it was there. Amazing, the guy/gal posts one post on that forum and it possibly saved me from having to buy a new cable, (I was considering the Drew Technologies Mongoose PRO, best price so far $445 plus shipping,) and pay $55 to Toyota TIS for just 2 days of access! My guess is that the ECU programming line is not connected in the unit I have as well, but that's okay for now. Don't really have anything I need to program at the moment.

I'm going on vacation to Hawaii this August. Maybe I could buy you a drink or something....

 

I'm afraid I'll have to see to confirm that the procedure actually worked, because as I understand I just manually installed a 32 bit driver on a 64 bit OS. The reason it doesn't install in the first place is because of that. The person noted something about waiting a long time, not exactly promising. Since the car is disassembled, I can't exactly try.

But he/she seemed to know A LOT. Since he/she is in Washington I'm guessing a possible employee of Microsoft.

I think I'll raise the offer to breakfast, lunch, or dinner then. Knowing how my wife was 11 years ago on our honeymoon there, she'll want her money's worth, so hopefully there is room for some R&R. (I honestly don't drink, but everyone eats!)

(I'm asking my wife more specifics about the trip.) We'll arrive on Aug 4 and be on Oahu 'till the 9th. We'll have a rental car so you can't have an excuse you're working on yours!

SCH-R530M ?

 

Thanks for the clarification!

Since my car is still somewhat apart, neg cable disconnected, bunch of wires disconnected in the fuse/relay box, and I have a used Canadian Prius v fuse box sitting in a box waiting to be disassembled, I guess you could say I'm still trying to get it the way Toyota designed it. (Sigh.) I'm not sure if I'm going to give up or not... (Maybe I'm too picky...)