Dash not lighting up. Instrument panel No Speedo etc.

The "focus" on it was:
That we were WELL into the thread, with all KINDS of ideas being thrown around......and STILL you had not mentioned whether or not the car would actually RUN.
And that is a critical piece of information. Given your claimed experience level, you should know that.

I was trying to be helpful by being sure "we" had not gone down the wrong path.......as happens quite frequently. I'm not sure what your motivation is for continuing to argue about it.

And now YOU don't seem to be willing or able to let it GO.
But I am.
I quit.

 

A really LOT of people come here and state that XXX is definitely good......and then it turns out that it is NOT. Especially batteries.

And a really LOT of people come here and take the well meaning advice of others and spend a lot of time and money on what SEEMS like good advice, only to suddenly remember 4 pages and weeks later that they forgot to mention a small detail.......which turns out to be the key to the whole problem.

But I assume that you will ignore all of that and just continue to rant.
None of that in any way helps you fix the problem with your car.
It doesn't help anything else either.

Give it a rest, please.

 

One thing you can always do is in your preferences choose to "ignore" specific members.

I have a feeling this will not be the first time someone has done this with certain users......

 

To bring these two things together and without wanting to inflame the situation, I'm sure you asked a while back what the failing CM has to do with the 12 V battery and from reading other past CM posts there does seem to be a co-relation, but what it is I don't know. Some people have reported that the CM only went rogue after they replaced the 12 V battery while others have reported that the CM was flakey until they replace the 12 V battery. Looking at the fix for the CM, the main problem with the original design was one of the capacitors was a little under spec'ed that cause erratic power up characteristics that, in turn, caused the CM to fail to power up. I'm not convinced that the 12 V battery "caused" the problem, but maybe it was enough to push the CM over the edge.

Anyway, I'm sure from what you've said, the 12 V is probably in the realm of no longer being a problem. Given you still have the CM symptoms, I'm fairly confident that is where the focus should be and as soon as you have reworked it or replaced it your issues will be over.

Just my $0.02.

 

Maybe you know that......but nobody else does.
Believe it or not, some people would ask for help getting the display to work again........when the entire whole car was dead.
THAT was the whole point of asking the simple question......that NEEDED to be answered.
YOU know the whole situation but nobody else does.
Ignoring a simple but critically important question does nobody any favors.

A simple "Yes the car runs fine" right after I asked would have prevented this whole mess.

Do you REALLY not understand that ??
If not, maybe you need to go back to 4th grade and work on reading comprehension a bit.
Or reign in your ego just a little.

 

If you would actually listen you might learn something occasionally.

Have a nice life.

 

You know NOTHING about me.

But if you don't understand what I am saying, you can just admit that.
You don't have to dance around and throw up a smoke screen.

I quit. Flame wars are a complete waste of time.

 

This is an ongoing issue with my 07. I have to unplug the battery, let it sit a bit, then plug back in. It has done this around 3-4 times in the past 2 yrs

 

…I'm about to make some popcorn, and grab a couple of beers! …anyone else like something while I'm at it?

 

To quote an oft heard warning from many years ago: "Don't make me stop this car!!"

 

Wow...Dare I go ahead and join this thread and say I experienced similar issues today? I better go put my vest on first. Sooo.....driving along today in my 2007 Prius running errands, mileage average is going up now that we have a spike of warm weather and I am digging that. Stop at the grocery store. come out with packages, open the hatch with the proximity key, and loosely close the hatch. Did not seal tightly and I knew it when it closed. Tried to re-open the hatch, but now it won't release. I have monkeyed with this before in the 3 weeks I have owned the car so I made a mental note to more thoroughly monkey with it when I get home. Get in and press the ignition button and the car starts, but no digital read out is displayed. No odometer, no transmission indicator, no speedo, nothing. Only the passenger side air bag indicator on the far right hand side is illuminated. The only way I know the car is running and ready to drive is by moving the transmission lever to "R" and wait for movement. It does move. No backup camera either. In addition, the main information display screen is locked on the last fuel mileage consumption readout prior to my shutting the car off. Average mpg is showing and the trip meter is there, but they are not changing. Can toggle between this screen and the power usage or energy screen, showing battery in use or charging, but that is it. Drove the car home. Does not appear that the odometer kept up with my trip. The average mpg and trip meter were still locked on the last reading before previously shutting off the car. Interior overhead light was also on due to the improperly latched rear hatch. Got back to the house and the car would not shut off. No indication on the ignition button that power was off and the information screen was still reading old information. Held the ignition button as if a hard reset and everything finally turned off. Sinking feeling kicks in right around here. I figured I would park the car and use my other vehicle until I could check in here on the forum and calmly and rationally figure out what to do next. Parking the car and leaving it means getting the damned dome light to shut off. Unload groceries from rear passenger door with seats now folded down and lean in awkwardly to grab the last of the bags. Not appreciating Toyota's design of the hatch without a manual emergency release cable with easy access. Found out the non-electronic way to release the rear hatch, crawled through the backseat to access the latching mechanism and released it the hard way. greased/lubed what I could of the latch lock and handle and shut the hatch firmly. Just for giggles but not really giggling at this point, I decided to try the car one more time. Presto!! Everything came back up! digital readouts are all up and running, no warning lights just as before, all good. Test drove for 2 miles and all is still good to go. Odometer works too but may not have registered the 12 miles I drove to get home. All works again except - the driver's side headlamp. It has been acting up and is now out again. I have heard this is also an issue with Prius. Headlights go wonky for no apparent reason. Regarding the digital dash read out and the main reason I was getting a nervous stomach - Is this still a potential CM issue? Should I wait to see if it happens a time or two again before really pursuing? I would love for the cause of everything to be driving with the hatch improperly closed but I am guessing that cause and effect theory won't pan out. Again, I am relieved at this point. I was picturing major $$$$$ to remove and replace the dash and digital components and everything else that goes with it. Something to make me feel extra good about my recent Prius purchase. That is the end of my long-winded odyssey. Insights, suggestions, opinions, and admonishments are all welcome.

 

Hey, @Prius Dragster. It does sound like it could be a failing combo meter. You should check with Matt (@Texas Hybrid Batteries). He can help you determine if it's bad or not. Another possibility with those symptoms is a low 12V battery. I'd check that before looking at anything else. In fact, I think the battery is the more likely root of the problem.

As for the manual release on the hatch, I guess it's good exercise, but I'm sure the elderly and the obese need help with that. I've had to do it a couple times. Last time was when I unhooked the battery to work on the brakes and absentmindedly closed the hatch. Oops!

And, finally, halogen headlights do burn out from time to time. I've probably replaced a dozen or so in my 45 years or so of driving and riding.

 

Yes, I believe so. That is all that is wrong with your car, apart from the headlights, which is a separate problem and not related to the CM one.

While it may seem that way, there is a reason, it is just that it is so difficult to diagnose, vey few people do the diagnosis. One thing you can check is the ground connection in the headlight connector to the bulb. These have been known to get dirty and cause heating and damage, due to the higher resistance.

No, if anything it is the other way around. Your hatch switch is not functioning because of the faulty CM. I'm not sure why, but there seems to be a co-relation.

It is not that hard to disassemble the dash enough that you can get to the CM. It is only a (relatively) small PCB and all that needs to be removed. Repair it yourself you have the skills and tools, or send it to Matt (@Texas Hybrid Batteries) and swap it for a refurbished board.

This thread actually contains a lot of good info, but it was a shame the flame war derailed it. It would read better if Sam Spade was added to your "ignore" list and then skip over the replies to the 12 V battery red herring posts by the OP. The first post by Sam was reasonable, but after that, it went down hill fairly fast, IMHO.