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undiluted antifreeze compatiable brands

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by AKTroy, May 26, 2017.

  1. AKTroy

    AKTroy New Member

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    Hello folks:

    I am located up in Fairbanks, Alaska and need to winterize down to 50 below. I'm told that I cannot use a standard yellow variety anti-freeze, but rather need to buy this expensive super long life formulation from Toyota.

    Problem is I can't even find anybody to ship the stuff to me off of Amazon, (tried every vendor available) and up on eBay I found one guy willing to ship for about $14 per gallon, on top of the $23 a gallon base price. Now, that's some expensive juice considering I need five qts at 65-70% antifreeze. I'm not sure about the intercooler quantity, so additional required there. I cannot use the premixed stuff as it's only good to about 35 below. Is there an antifreeze I can buy at Napa or AutoZone, Walmart that will work? I don't mind up to $20 a gallon, but paying an additional $15 for shipping is nuts. Surely there must be a compatible brand out there? Suggestions?
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Fwiw the Canadian Toyota antifreeze pre-mix (they're all premix) is 55% antifreeze, as opposed to US 50%. Maybe Alaska supply is as well?? I've heard it's actually counterproductive to go much higher in percent, not sure.

    Have you contacted an Alaska Toyota dealership parts dept, see what they have?
     
  3. Lightning Racer

    Lightning Racer Active Member

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    The super long life coolant is $24 for a gallon at Kendall Toyota in Anchorage. Looks like there's a Kendall Toyota in Fairbanks too. Just go to the parts counter. I'm sure it's something that they have in stock, because they need it to work on cars
     
  4. yeldogt

    yeldogt Active Member

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    What does the local dealer recommend? You are not the only one with this issue.

    The super long life coolant (pink) seems to be supplied only pre-mixed -- even in the aftermarket. The older product -- long life coolant (red) was supplied full strength.

    The asian fluid is different and the pink is a high phosphate -- not to be used with brass/copper components.
     
  5. tankyuong

    tankyuong Senior Member

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    zerex works also
     
  6. AKTroy

    AKTroy New Member

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    The local dealer does have the undiluted magic juice at $26 gallon. Ouch. I then called over to the local O'Reillys auto parts and asked if they had any suggestions. They carry the Zerex at $16 per gallon, so looks like that's the route I'm going to take unless somebody here advises me not to use that brand. I was actually surprised they had that here, as Fairbanks is generally not a very well-stocked town! Many thanks to those who responded!
     
  7. Kenny94945

    Kenny94945 Active Member

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    Just be careful.

    Some coolants don't like to be mixed...like adding green to red.
    It will "sludge" up.
    Some may quote penny smart pound foolish.

    Make sure that Xerox is compatible with the OEM coolant.

    Also I too have heard the is diminishing returns going higher than a 50/50 mix in regards to freezing up.
    Xerox bottle or the parts departments may have some good ratio advice for your sub-zero temps.

    Best of luck ...up there in the cold zones of the Earth.
     
  8. AKTroy

    AKTroy New Member

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    I've been using a 65/35 mix for many years with no apparent ill effect, and no cracked blocks at -56 (our low last year). I can also say that I was planning to drain all of the old coolant 1st as it has about 60,000 miles on it. I guess I could run a pint through while leaving the valve open to flush a bit? What is the expected life of the antifreeze? I'm use to two to three years for the standard ethylene glycol based stuff.
     
  9. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    zerex was 13$ @ advancedauto
    Screen Shot 2017-05-26 at 10.51.28 PM.png
     
  10. AKTroy

    AKTroy New Member

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    For the pre-mixed stuff that sounds about right. Probably good for 99% of the people out there though, but won't cut the mustard here in the extreme north. Actually, sounds like $16 a gallon is a much better deal for the undiluted stuff, as it makes 2 gallons, so eight dollars a gallon. Pretty easy to mix with water for that kind of savings.
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    What pre-mix is the dealership selling? I'm thinking it might be the Canadian 55% blend. If it's good enough for Winnipeg?

    IMG_6887.JPG

    I've really no in-depth knowledge, but seems like increasing anti-freeze percent is not a linear improvement, and drops boiling point, a consideration in summer:

    Antifreeze Ratio
     
    #11 Mendel Leisk, May 27, 2017
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
  12. AKTroy

    AKTroy New Member

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    From what I read I think you are correct. I believe 55% antifreeze is good to about -40F. At 65% that gets close to -70, but boiling point drops. I looked around for a chart, but couldn't find the exact numbers. Maybe somebody else knows. I think at 55% the antifreeze would actually gel at colder temperatures than -40F, but not freeze. Considering I will be using a block heater, and oil pan heater I agree with you that that the premix 55% would probably be fine. I don't think my local dealer sells that though.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Phone and find out?
     
  14. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    Yes, at 50% and more the stuff just gells and won't crack the block. It won't flow though until it warms a bit, but at -50F and lower the bypass flows enough to cool the engine (the rad. is blocked with the gell and probably won't warm up to flow).

    If your climate in summer is anything like here in Edmonton you won't get high enough temps to boil the coolant anyway, so a drop in boiling point is moot. Thermostat is flowing at 90C.

    I would use a higher concentrate to try to keep the rad. coolant from gelling. It is polypropylene glycol based coolant, as is the Zerex. I strongly recommend using the Toyota stuff though. Because I just don't know the electro-chemical nature of the car and Toyota does.

    Original (when car is new) lasts 5 years, no matter how much the engine is run. The anticorrosives are "used up" and the polypropylene begins to break down over time, which is why we must change the stuff with new. EVEN THOUGH it looks "like new" when you drain it!
    The second and subsequent changes are to be done at 3 year intervals. I think it's because of introduced contaminants, impure water (not distilled), etc. The timing I'm quoting is from the manual. You also see the same timing for other applications.

    I'm doing Pearl S in the next few weeks. Or rather, I'm getting the "good dealer" to do it. Can't be bothered to do it myself. You should do both the engine coolant and the inverter coolant at the same time. They both degrade over time.
     
  15. AKTroy

    AKTroy New Member

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    The vehicle is a 2011, so sounds like it's about time for a change anyway. Considering I really can't do a complete flush, I will more than likely just go with the Toyota formulation. Originally I thought it was just a bunch of hype, but the more I read, the more I'm realizing there's a lot of truth to what people are saying about the Toyota formulation. For a $20 price difference, I don't see enough of a reason to chance it. I waste that much on a bad lunch sometimes:) Thanks for the great advice. Whether it's the 55% solution or undiluted, I'm still going to need a couple of gallons (8L) to do both the coolant and intercooler anyway. Not sure how much I need for the intercooler, but I think at least 2 qts or 2L, maybe 3? Coolant uses 5 qts I believe.

    Next week I get to tackle the engine block heater, which sounds like a real fun project! Not.
     
  16. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    I will warn you the "block heater" is only a 300W device, and in our winter temps. doesn't really do a lot. I don't have one and won't have one. My experience on Pearl, which had one is what is making me dubious. I might consider it if it was "immersion type" (installed in a frost plug) and 700 W or more. But it isn't, tends to overheat once the thermal grease degrades, and is hard to get at to "fix or install". Your choice. I wonder if the external type that go in the heater line would work on a Prius? The type that go "click click" as they "pump" warmed coolant through the system. You might ask your local dealer what they think.
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    David, my experience with the block heater is a little more positive, lol. First off: the block heater is 400 watt. Yes, it is not immersion type, like the one in our previous Civic (also 400 watt), but it appears to function the same, ie: raising coolant temp by around 25~30C in two hours, at least in our climate. We had ours installed at time of purchase, use it virtually without fail for first cold start of the day, and 6.5 years on it's working just the same.

    David, those intervals are at odds with what I see in the both the US and Canadian schedules. This is an excerpt from the US 2010 Prius Warranty and Maintenance Guide, the first instruction to change engine/inverter coolant:

    upload_2017-5-31_7-50-3.png

    Note sub-text #3, in the US, further delays the inverter coolant change, and completely explains the US intervals:

    upload_2017-5-31_7-52-38.png

    The Canadian Schedule is a little simpler, doesn't delay the first change for the inverter coolant interval. An excerpt from the Canadian 2010 Toyota Owner's Manual Supplement (note: it covers ALL Toyota vehicles, not just Prius):

    upload_2017-5-31_7-59-21.png

    The values 160,000 kms and 80,000 kms translate roughly to 100,000 miles and 50,000 miles respectively. So basically, for both engine and inverter coolant circuits: the same as the US engine coolant recommendation.
     
    #17 Mendel Leisk, May 31, 2017
    Last edited: May 31, 2017
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  18. AKTroy

    AKTroy New Member

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    Here in Alaska the cartridge block heater is a standard install on all Prius that leave the dealership. As Mendel pointed out it's 400 W, not 300W. In addition to this cartridge heater they also use a oil pan heater pad ( I think 100 W, maybe 150W), and finally a trickle charger on the battery. All the wires are routed upfront into a single plug. FWIW, the local dealer sells the undiluted formulation of antifreeze here. $26 a gallon. I will start with one and see if it's enough. I can't seem to find the inverter coolant quantity, but guessing it's 2+ quarts. Thanks again for all the feedback!
     
  19. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    So much for my "assumptions" and memory. As I recall (but can't check any longer) the GII had those intervals. I just assumed the GIII would use the same ones because most other vehicles (at that time) also used them. Guess I'll relax and not bother just yet. Do want to do the HSD oil though. I did measure the GII block heater, and you're right it was 400 W (hey, that was 7 years ago, I can't be expected to remember that far back can I?). Here in Edmonton, with the GII, in winter, it was almost unnoticeable when used. And that was in the unheated garage, which is usually at least 20C warmer inside than outside in winter. Can't say on the GIII because I managed to get Pearl S without the block heater. Don't miss a block heater. Don't need it. If the engine won't start using a 20 HP starter motor run from 560V three phase I shouldn't be driving it! ;)
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Yeah my main objective with block heater is to accelerate warm up; it's definitely not do or die, especially here on the west coast.