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EZ Oil Drain Valve Installation (EZ-103) Question

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by jbusta, May 28, 2017.

  1. jbusta

    jbusta Junior Member

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    Hey everyone,

    I just purchased an EZ drain valve. Do you know if we should use the supplied Viton "O-ring" that comes with the valve, or would we be better off buying a new oil drain gasket/washer? (if so, Copper or aluminum?)

    And second, when tightening the valve, is it better to go by the product's recommendation of hand-tighten and then 1/2 turn or should we go by Toyota's proper torque of 28 ft-lb.?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    I installed a Fumoto F103 valve on our Prius hatchback. I don't remember obsessing over the gasket and tightening torque as much as you. ;)

    IIRC, I used a coated aluminum washer and tightened it "enough".

    Keep in mind that the valve body is brass, which is softer than the oem steel drain bolt, so I wouldn't tighten it to the oem specification, which might strip the softer brass threads on the valve.
     
  3. johnjohnchu

    johnjohnchu Active Member

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    I had utilized Fumoto valve to ease oil draining on my Prius for many years. However it had been hit a few times due to Prius' low clearance and the actual oil drain location. I always worried that the valve can be accidentally opened. Now I am back to using the oem drain bolt which I think it is much safer.
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I would follow tap manufacturers torque spec, and use the washer they supplied. I would never use a tap tho, for same reason as previous poster.
     
  5. Bill Lohman

    Bill Lohman Junior Member

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    I agree with Mendel. Use the recommended torquing with the associated parts. As for using a metallic washer instead of the o ring... I'd be inclined to move back to the Toyota spec. 28 lb/ft wont strip the brass threads unless you're removing/reinstalling the valve a lot...which kind of defeats the point.

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