Result: 0-20 - 1.96 seconds 0-30 - 3.45 seconds 0-40 - 5.57 seconds 0-50 - 8.40 seconds 0-60 - 11.91 seconds Flat ground, no wind, no wheel-spin, battery at about 60% and room temperature, 0 is true zero, not Motor Trend's 1 foot criteria. EDIT: Slight changes to the numbers after re-analysis.
I have yet to have the need to actually from the pedal. 12 is the same as my last non-Prius and it was never a problem either. I've passed on the highway twice in EV now. That acceleration is more relevant. Neither was lacking. 80 mph in the rain without the gas engine is certainly a new sensation to experience.
I still think 0-30 is the most important for me. I too have yet to have need to floor the pedal except for this test. The car is VERY responsive to even subtle requests for power in tough situations, such as merging on a steep up-hill on-ramp.
Question #1: Speedometer or actual GPS speed? to compare, see Alex on Autos review (acceleration part): HV/EV = 10.3s/12.8s (0-60) Question #2 (US vs EU): US model should stay in EV mode even the accelerator pedal is depressed firmly (not in case of EV Auto). On the other hand, EV mode (EU model / EU Manual) may be cancelled automatically when accelerating suddenly. What's your experience, especially, in case of EU model? Question #3: Here is the Prius IV acceleration test (km/h, actual GPS speed): 0-30 mph (0-48 km/h) -> ~3.4 s (GPS speed) 0-50 mph (0-80 km/h) -> 7.2 s (GPS speed) If we assume that Prius IV is comparable with Prius Prime in HV mode, then I can't see an advantage of EV mode from the acceleration point of view (as several reviewers mentioned). What's your opinion?
Just for comparison, Hyundai IONIQ Electric acceleration 0-100 km/h (62.5 mph, GPS speed) Prius IV (~Prime HV) 0-100 km/h -> 10.7 s Hyundai IONIQ Electric 0-100 km/h -> 9.7 s (no data for plug-in version at present)
This was speedometer speed, but I checked it against GPS speed, and it's close enough that I'm not entirely sure which way it reads. The car is fast enough in both modes that it doesn't bother me no matter what. It flattens the hills extremely effectively.
Thanks. The G3 didn't seem to me like an upgrade relative to my 2004 and the PIP didn't interest me for that reason and others, so I skipped that generation entirely. The Prime, on the other hand, feels like a big upgrade in every way except interior design, which is a big downgrade but one I'm living with.
With the driver weight and fuel tank state, we can calculate the change in kinetic energy and power applied to achieve this result. For more accuracy, do a roll-down starting at 60 mph and measure the seconds to 50 mph, 40, 30, 20 mph. This would give a drag power curve to adjust the acceleration curve. Or we can use the EPA coefficients. FYI, the peak HP should show up after 30-40 mph. Then the aero drag becomes enough that wheel spin is avoided. Excellent effort! Taking basic metrics and sharing gives insights. Bob Wilson
I just repeated the test, with a slight difference in my technique and using power mode instead of eco mode. As expected, power and eco are essentially the same at full throttle. The differences in the measured times are quite small: 0-20 1.93 0-30 3.41 0-40 5.54 0-50 8.37 0-60 11.78 The power trace shows the same odd shape with a peak at 30, a minimum at 40 and another peak at 55, which is higher. The first peak is at about 58.5kW and the second is at about 63kW. This is accounting for both rolling and aero drag.
Battery amps something like 325? to get 60+kw? Just curious as to what size DC transducer would be needed to log battery input/output.