Need help Warning lights on

What Patrick was getting at, the two screenshots you posted in #14 are, one from the ABS/VSC/TRAC computer (ECU), and one from the Gateway ECU. (You can see those names in the tabs near the top of the screen).

If you just run a Techstream 'health check', you should get back a whole list of ECUs and whether they have any active codes or not.

In your screenshots, the first one, from the brake computer, is just telling you that it has heard of some problem from the HV computer. Those two computers have to share information, because if the HV one is having some problem, the brake computer has to know it might be on its own to slow the car down without regenerative help. So it has those two codes, but they are pretty vague. All they mean is "hey, I'm the brake computer, and I've heard the HV computer mention there's some problem."

So to track down the problem, you need to check the other ECUs that are showing codes in Techstream. (Don't be too strict about the names of the ECUs ... the one that basically coordinates the powertrain was called "HV ECU" in Gen 1, they haven't used the exact same name in all gens, could be called something like Hybrid or Power Control, I don't have the books in front of me right now.)

Your second screen shot is from the Gateway ECU (as its name suggests, it sits at the junction of some different comm networks in the car, and passes data between them), and all three of those codes are showing trouble communicating with three different other components in the car.

Those codes might be clearable (try asking Techstream to clear them). Sometimes, connecting odd scantools or devices to the OBD port can cause comm errors to be logged, and you can clear them once the offending devices aren't connected.

-Chap

 

Maybe the DTC from the "important" ECU's are not visible to the OP because of the comm faults...

 

The Gateway ECU seemed to be complaining only about the Body, Smart Key, and Combination Meter ECUs.

A Gen 2 has three types of network: the CAN, the BEAN, and the AVC-LAN; the Gateway ECU has an interface on all three (2004 New Car Features, p. BE-47). The Body, Smart, and Meter ECUs are all on the BEAN (p. BE-49). The HV and battery ECUs are both on the CAN (p. BE-48), which has its own direct connections to the DLC connector, so the reported comm errors shouldn't be interfering with talking to them.

So, I'm not sure why the OP isn't seeing those codes. Maybe just spend a bit more time getting familiar with Techstream?

Also not sure yet what might explain those particular three BEAN denizens not showing up. The BEAN is a ring network, intended to stay functional even with any one break. Page BE-49 shows where those ECUs are, logically, around the ring, and they aren't all three adjacent, scuttling my easiest guess. Back to the drawing board....

-Chap

 

1. P0AA6 is accompanied by a three digit info code. See if you can find that.
2. Worst case, just disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes, then reconnect. The car can be driven once after that. Repeat that process while you continue to research the problem and decide what to do about it.

 

The third photo above show detail codes 526 and 612--ground fault in the battery.

 

OK, that implies at least one battery module is leaking electrolyte.

 

The battery will usually leak at the battery terminals. Look for wetness on the terminals.

That corroded case might need to be cleaned or replaced

 

And if you find it, treat it with care. From what I've read, the leakage is caustic and can be neutralized with a weak acid like vinegar. Use chemical protective equipment for eyes and skin, and ventilate the area well.

Be sure to properly torque any terminal nuts you disconnect. Look up proper ratings and use a small torque wrench, in in-lbs.

 

And to do the job properly, you need to disassemble the battery and discard any leaking modules. Clean and dry (thoroughly) each module and also clean the inside of the case. Ensure the modules and case are rinsed of the cleaner and the they are thoroughly dry before reassembling. Because the electrolyte is clear, it can be hard to see the contamination, so clean all modules, but certainly all that are adjacent to the leaking modules.

 

The "wet" modules are the leaking ones. The "white" module residue is just dried corrosion, that should be cleaned off.

The leaking modules should drop voltage faster than the good modules. Record the voltage and wait a week and take the voltage readings again. The leaking modules voltage should drop much faster than the good modules.

There's so much acid on the battery case, I suggest you buy yourself a new case and reassemble. You shouldn't be reusing that case.

If you have the funds to buy 8 newer modules, I would buy 8 and be done with it. Keep the other ones as test modules or spares.

 

Do you have equipment to charge and balance the pack?

SM-N900P ?

 

Who's the local guy for $800? You can get that price at salvage yards....

SM-N900P ?

 

You should definitely for $800 for a reliable battery. This whack a mole thing isn't working for you

SM-N900P ?