Hello Prius Chat I was replacing 12v BAT the negative was not connected to the body but positive was fully connected this is sorta a diagram to understand it better how I ZAPPED ends CAR-FUSE-POS-(ZAP)-NEG / CAR After all hooked up the only things that work is headlights, door beep, FOB and door loocks, Dash only show that the door is open and checkengine flash When pressing Start Button , I hear couple clicks, under dash and under hood, inverter start work for couple secs and dyes, thats it HERE is what I am done so far AS I read a bunch of topics on similar issue , JUST DON't wanna change inverter just YET, couse it runs ???may be So I checked every fuse possible, ALL GOOD TEST Replaced every possible RELAY Replaced ABS computer (I dont know why DONT ask) replaced the computer under the start button cover Next step to replace the HV computer If that don't work should I replace inverter ? Thank you for all suggestions
I'm not following your 'diagram' very well. But if the zap was directly at the battery posts, without any car parts in between, and the car not in 'Ready', the car itself ought to be safe. Is the battery itself still good? How many volts? Then how many volts do you measure at the battery jump point under the hood? You also claim that all fuses are good. Does this include the 12V fusible link, which is a separate protection item and doesn't look anything like an ordinary fuse? It may also not be easy to replace, due to access issues, but is vastly cheaper than the inverter. Many inverters have been saved from user errors by this link blowing.
Don't have a clue what you did but if you have headlights you have power to the main fuse box. Not sure why your shot gunning computers that's just going to bury you. You need to put everything back and get a mini Vci and harvest all the codes it's throwing. It's your only hope.
Fuseable link is good. Actually spent half a day today changing the inverter, NO LUCK. same exact thing. The battery is low at 11v but everything still work fine, so I thought it should at least fire up the dash or something if it was working properly. I was thinking to check the relays better. What you guys think ?
Double check and then triple check the 15 amp AM2 fuse. This fuse runs the inverter coolant pump. The coolant pumps are known to fail. Once in a great while the pump can fail with a dead short that will blow the AM2 fuse. This produces symptoms very similar to what you described. Headlights and dome lights will work. Dash is out and car will not ready. Can't read codes because everything is dead. I have no idea how or why what you did could blow that fuse. Brad
It won't be the inverter if that fusible link isn't blown. Check the 5 amp fuse in the red post assy on the battery. There's 2 fuses in there the main 100 amp we know t hats good or u would have nothing the other is That 5 amp 12 volt sense line to the inverter via an ecu. It would help if u could tell us how you blew it up.
That is low, and a low 12V battery is a frequent cause of weird, unfamiliar, nonsensical problems. Charge it back up to a full level, and try again. At a minimum, remove this known complicating factor from the mix. Weird stuff happening? MPGs dropping? Test The Battery | PriusChat
Agree. This should be step 1. Step 2, get a mini VCI to read the codes. Step 3, rent a pass from http://www.techinfo.toyota.com for troubleshooting procedures.
Thank you very much was off for today Will be on that prius tomorrow after work and I think my friend has the VCI for iphone will try that
Alright, So worked on the Prius today I got the battery to full 12.5v in the back and in front Checked the AM2 fuse got the connection there And I tested the computer and unfortunately it will not connect to the car because it needs to be in ignition to read. It will not turn on the car to ignition. the 5 amp fuse by the battery is good. My question is could the wire be torn that connects to that 5amp fuse, and this would not start the computers And Ed Fox had question about the dead short so the car was all off / the battery was all connected to positive and the negative was connectet to battery and you know it has a wire that wasn't hooked on to car and that end hit the positive to create the short I hope this is more understandable Thank you
