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Are people really getting 40+ MPG in Gen 2?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Fuel Economy' started by timmyjane, Apr 12, 2017.

  1. timmyjane

    timmyjane Junior Member

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    - Have you read This Thead Yet? yes

    - What fuel economy are you getting and how are you determining fuel economy? (trip computer or manual calculations) manual


    - What fuel economy are you expecting and why? 40+

    - What are the approximate outside air temps? 80

    - How long are your trips? 20miles

    - How much of it is city vs. highway? Roughly what's the average speed in overall and and of each segment? Is there a lot of stop and go driving? 80% highway 65

    - What region/state are you in? (if you haven't set your location in your profile) SC

    - What's the terrain like of your drives? (e.g. flat, gentle hills, steep hills, etc.) gentle hills

    - Is your oil overfilled? (i.e. above the full mark on the dipstick) no

    How old is your 12v battery? What is the voltage reading of your 12v battery after sitting over night? (Method Here) 2 years. Checked recently by NAPA. Its OK.

    Have you had your alignment checked? Any pulling or abnormal tire wear? Yes, No

    - Are you using the factory tires and wheels? If not, please indicate tire make, model and size (e.g. Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max 185/65R15). Sumitomo 185/65/15

    - What are your tire pressures? 42/40

    - Make, model, year, engine and transmission of previous car? (e.g. 08 Honda Civic Si 2.0L 4 cylinder, manual transmission) What did you actually get on the same trips/commute? (Please give us actual numbers, not EPA ratings.)

    - How are you trying to drive (e.g. trying to stay in electric only?) and how hard are you braking? Trying to drive to save gas. Not very hard braking

    - Are you "warming up" the ICE (internal combustion engine) by letting it idle after powering on? No

    - Are you driving using D or B mode? D

    - HVAC settings? Are you using the heater, AC, auto mode, etc.? If using auto, what temp is it set to? Auto 72ish

    - If reporting a mileage drop, did anything significant change on your car (e.g. accident, hit a curb or big pothole throwing off alignment, oil change/other maintenance/repairs, changed tires or wheels, etc.) or your commute? No

    Sparkplugs are iridium about 10K miles old. Maybe Ill change them to be safe. Also got TB and MAF cleaner. Hopefully can do that next week.
     
  2. timmyjane

    timmyjane Junior Member

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    No big fluid changes lately. Im getting all my stuff together to do the transaxle, brake and coolant changes. Im the only driver.
     
  3. timmyjane

    timmyjane Junior Member

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    Another question. When I fill up my car automatically resets the average MPG. Anyway to make the computer show MPG over more than 1 tank?

    I googled. It seems you cant.
     
    #23 timmyjane, Apr 14, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    are the sumo's low rolling resistance?
     
  5. timmyjane

    timmyjane Junior Member

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    Not specifically designed to be so. However the tires are only a few weeks old and the low MPGs supersede them.
    SUMITOMO'S HTR ENHANCE
     
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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    fair enough. let's see how it all shakes out, after you do your maintenance.nothing you've listed should affect mpg's. i would buy a meter for the 12v, clean the throttle body/maf, intake manifold, egr valve, pcv and etc.
     
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  7. Moving Right Along

    Moving Right Along Senior Member

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    Yes. While the miles travelled number resets after you get gasoline, the MPG number should stay constant until you hit the reset button. The MPG number is averaged across all the time since it was last reset, even though the car won't show how long that's been.
     
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  8. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    Only two things jump out at me, and both too small to cover this MPG case:
    I don't see any Sumitomo tire models in the tire list thread:
    Low Rolling Resistance replacement tires: Current List | PriusChat

    Non-LRR tires will provide a small but permanent MPG cost, generally not enough to be worth changing out good tires. Additionally, new tires seem to temporarily produce lower MPG until they break in.
    Auto mode is known to be a bit of an energy hog, though again, not by enough to account for your shortfall.

    Consider turning the AC away from of Auto to a fixed low-to-mid fan speed, raise the temperature number as much as you comfortably can (i.e. don't spend fuel on over-cooling), and possibly direct all the dash vents at you (close the far away passenger vent) so that you are not trying to cool the entire car's cabin when there are no other passengers. But when you live in climate that demands AC (my climate zone usually does not), then this is just one of the costs you have to pay buck up and accept.
    And one more thing -- Don't take the shop check as gospel, many others have been told the same thing on weak 12V batteries. Please go through the actual check procedure, on a battery that has been resting (car off, ignition never READY for a number of hours), and report the voltages back here.
     
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  9. timmyjane

    timmyjane Junior Member

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    I have tested the battery after sitting overnight with a meter. The car and meter give similar readings. The battery does not loose voltage overnight.
    What is the etc? What other maintenance items should be done?
     
  10. timmyjane

    timmyjane Junior Member

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    That's interesting. That probably explains the dip this last month.
     
  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    timmyjane, that is the correct behaviour on the 2004-2005 Gen II. There was a change to the behaviour in the 2006-2009 Gen II to that noted by Moving Right Along.
    I disagree in this particular case, with the OAT at 80ºF and the climate set to 73-74ºF, and once the car is fully warmed up, there will be fairly limited draw that would cause lower MPGs.
     
    #31 dolj, Apr 15, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2017
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  12. timmyjane

    timmyjane Junior Member

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    Good to know. Thanks.
     
  13. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    IMO, a well maintained Prius, in good adjustment, with no major issues, SHOULD be doing a whole lot better than 34 mpg.

    Even one that is over a decade old, with 230,000 miles on it.
     
  14. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    One more common item that isn't covered on Cwerdna's questionnaire: brake drag. Corrosion can cause disk brake calipers and pins to not properly slide, causing some pads to drag on the disk when the brakes are not supposed to be engaged. This is usually asymmetric, only one or some pads are dragging. Gen2 rear brakes (in North America, not elsewhere) are drums, not disks, they may have a separate issue.

    This can be detected by feeling the hubs after driving, and stopping gently with as little friction braking as practical. (Regen braking is ok). If working correctly, the brakes and hubs should not be very warm. If you get burned, then they are dragging a lot.

    When jacked up with wheels off the ground, rear wheels should spin somewhat freely, you can easily feel any brake drag. Front wheels are tied to the propulsion system, so this test doesn't work there.

    I've had this on two past cars, not my Prii. Western Washington's newfound love of winter salt seemed to be a factor in the more severe case.
     
  15. timmyjane

    timmyjane Junior Member

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    Would brake drag be detectible while gliding? I ask because it seems to glide well and does not decelerate when I don't think it should. I have questioned the feel of my emergency brake though. I believe brake check and service is in order.

    Is the Toyota Rubber Grease something that the dealer would stock? I need to go by and get fluids anyway.

    I also think that the engine runs rough. When it kicks in at idle it kicks in hard. Hopefully cleaning the TB and MAF and changing the PCV will smooth some of this out.
     
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  16. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    Serious drag is detectable this way, I can't speak for minor drag. For feel and MPG loss, it doesn't matter if it is the service brake or the parking brake, same issues.

    I can't speak to your other questions, those are out of my experience base. My household has taken three vehicles to the 200,000 mile bracket without needing any of those services. The two that are no longer with us, were getting the best MPG of their lifetime right at the end of our ownership of them, though that was more related to better adjustment of the 'nut behind the wheel' than to any mechanical tuning.
     
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  17. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    My 2005 Prius currently has 300,000 km. It has pretty much consistently gotten around 50 to 56 MPG since the day one (when I bought it S/H at 58,000 km).

    So far my engine performance is still good, and to be honest it's efficiency doesn't seem to have changed very much over the years. The HV battery performance has gradually declined though, and under some circumstances this can reduce the MPG a bit.

    Under sedate driving conditions a moderate loss of HV battery capacity actually has surprisingly little (near zero) impact on MPG. Under more demanding conditions however, particularly when it's driven hard enough to make it swing "purple to green" and so on, then an aging battery does reduce the MPG somewhat.
     
  18. Munpot42

    Munpot42 Senior Member

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    You can't judge a Gen 2's mileage by the tank. It has a rubber bladder and the tank size varies by the weather (colder weather smaller bladder). Only way to judge mileage is fill the tank, reset trip odd to 0, drive then when it's time to fill again. divide miles driven by gallons used, Repeat at least 4 times, then you will have an idea of your mileage.
     
  19. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    ... in North America. Note that several respondents here are in other countries that have true rigid tanks, not that cursed bladder.
     
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  20. WilDavis

    WilDavis Senior Member

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    Overall for past 3 years ~40 mpg, last fill-up 49.9mpg (!); 2009 Gen II with just over 119,000 miles on odometer. Tyre pressures 48F/46R. ...er, that's it!
     
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