What services you need and what you don't

I don't think you need alot of that stuff I would go to a different mechanic.


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Answers in red

Wow this is dorked????????????????? Edit is messed up. But I would only fix what is actually broke except oil and filters.

Anyway answers below from my last post.

Prius49507 said: ↑
Hi Everyone-
I have a 2006 Prius, purchased September 2014 with 99k.
Since purchasing, I have had Fuel Induction Service and A/C Service performed (and regular oil changes).

Had my oil changed this week and the dealer (where I purchased) told me I am due for a 120k service package.
The price is $1043, and I'm a single, non-mechanically-inclined female with no Prius-savvy friends--which is why I'm here.

I assume that I need all the services in this package, but I wanted to check with the experts first.
Looks like the edit function is broke at this minute. However my daughter had the same exact issue and we turned down everything except the oil change as she does her own filters.

Quote I read the first post in this thread, but some of the services required by my dealer have different names.
This list is what the dealer gave me.

First Priorities
Brake inspection-test drive, report condition, clean/adjust rear brakes $36 (they do this every oil change looking for work)
Replace engine coolant $130 (if you plan to keep it for 200K then maybe)
Inverter service $180 (if you plan to keep it for 200K then maybe)
Replace spark plugs 4cyl $180 (only if your MPG is down and it is running rough)
Replace auto tranny fluid $125 ($70 is closer and have you ever changed it? May not help at this point.)
Replace PCV valve $50 (local mechanic can do this or auto zone)

Second Priorities
Fuel induction service $185 (no)
Brake flush $145 (problem is if the screw up they will charge you for broke items/not an easy job and if you go to a local mechanic be sure they work on Prius's on a regular basis and have done this and lived to tell about it/many folks have never done this for their Prius)
Inspect ball joints, dust covers, drive shaft boots, engine air filter, nuts/bolts, steering linkage $50 (no)
Replace cabin air filter $55 (do it yourself or a local mechanic or a friend/directions should be in the glove box manual or check the thread here.)

Should I do them all at once? Break them up into 2+ appointments? Get a quote from a different Toyota dealer? Go to a non-dealer?
The dealer mentioned "knocking off 10%, which really adds up". (Hell yeah.)

This is a HUGE chunk of money for me, and I greatly appreciate any advice.
Click to expand...Quote

Answers in red and just say no since you can always say yes later. That what I taught in drug avoidance class.

Bottom line is how much you can afford on preventative MX and the likely hood it will delay the breaking of your car before you get rid of it. New Priuses are cheap these days.

 

When you bought the car, did you get a Carfax report? At 99K miles, some of this stuff may have been done before you bought it, and it would show up on that report. It may be worth paying for one. And try an internet search with your VIN, see if anything pops up.

If coolant hasn't been changed yet, I'd do that (definitely dealer or Prius mechanic). Spark plugs and PCV too (anyone).

(I'm surprised at the coolant prices. The inverter coolant is easier and there's less of it. Maybe they're transposed.)

If you've read this thread, you know a lot about the transmission fluid already. Anyone can do that if you provide the Toyota fluid ($40+ worth).

I'd put a brake flush high on the second priority list. Definitely dealer/Prius mechanic. You can look at the fluid reservoir, in the right rear of the engine room. If the fluid is honey-colored or darker, it should be changed.

DIY on cabin and engine air filters--they're very simple. Or non-dealer.

The rest of the stuff anyone can do, lower priority.

As the car ages, more stuff will break and you'll need to pay attention and budget for repairs or replacement. I hate to bring it up, but at this age and mileage, a small percentage of Priuses are seeing hybrid battery failures costing over $3000. Even good old cars eventually need major service.

 

Sorry no one has responded to this yet but here's my take listed in order of priority:

1) Replace spark plugs (def do this)
2) Replace tranny fluid (def)
3) Replace engine coolant (def)
4) Inverter service (if this means replace inverter coolant, def do this). If not, don't do it.
5) All other services to me are hogwash/bogus. Rear brakes are self adjusting and the car does not use the friction brakes often. If your car is stopping fine with no shimmy, you are good for now, fuel induction service (bogus), brake flush (bogus), inspect ball joints etc (bogus),
6) Replace cabin air filter, this can be DIY by you and it's too easy. Instructions online, Youtube, owners manual, etc, etc. Buy a filter from WalMart.

 

My $0.02 below in RED

 

Original 2007 spark plugs changed at 118k mi:

 

Did you feel any difference in the car?

 

Not really. Mileage went up but that could be attributed to other things. The old plugs seemed to be in good shape.

 

My 2007 base model Prius has 258,000 miles on it. I do simple things like oil change, engine air filter, cabin air filter, tire pressure myself.
My spark plugs were last replaced at 229,000 miles by Firestone
Radiator fluid drain/refill at 209,000 miles by Firestone
Invertor coolant, and transmission fluid drain/refill at 193,000 miles by Toyota dealership
Front brake pads and rotors replaced at 194,000 miles by 3rd party mechanic.
Anyone have any suggestions on what I should do at this point ? Should I get a PCV valve replacement? So far car seems to be fine, I'm not getting as good fuel economy, used to get close to 60 mpg in summer, now it's 57 mpg. I just looked at the radiator, invertor, and brake fluid levels and they seem normal. Radiator fluid is pink.

 

PCV valve is not a bad idea, with that miles on the odo. A clogged PCV can degrade mpg, and increase oil consumption. It's one component in the system that basically vents the crankcase "responsibly", ie: doesn't vent directly to the atmposphere, instead returns air to the intake manifold, where it'll be run through the combustion chamber again.

 

When was the last time you got an alignment check? I often get a lifetime alignment policy with Firestone, since it costs less than buying 2 alignments seperately. Uneven tire wear is often a sign of misalignment.

Not many other things will cause a decline in fuel economy without also triggering a Check Engine Light. Air filter does not affect fuel economy at all, and spark plugs pretty much either work reliably, or don't and trigger a CEL.

How are you measuring fuel economy to ensure all other variables are accounted for? 5% change in FE is not very much, and would be difficult to measure accurately while accounting for all variables (speed, temperature, route, traffic, driving technique, etc).

 

My last alignment was at 229,000 miles when I had the spark plugs replaced. I'm probably due for another one, but I'm going to get snow tires on Friday, I'm hoping that an alignment is part of the process. I'm getting the snow tires at Costco.
It sounds like I need a PCV valve replacement.
For alignment, I want the right and left to be -.05 degrees tow in. I ask for that, not all places will do that for me.

 

Alignments are not performed unless you pay for the service, and Costco does not perform them. 30,000 miles or more between alignments is fine, but something can throw it off instantly, such as hitting a curb, or turning the steering wheel while the tire is against a curb. Have them look for uneven wear and go from there.

 

I specifically asked for -.05 toe in right, and left wheel, and what I got today from Firestone was +.03 left, and +.04 right. I'm so angry at Firestone right now. They left my rear toe at .34 which is out of alignment, and states on the sheet, "no caster or rear toe adjustments."
The before shows my front left toe was -.05, and the right was +.03.
So basically they did nothing for the $90 I was charged.
The front desk person was arguing with me that it makes no difference, and we went around and around like this for 5 minutes.

 

I would disagree; even partially clogged air filter can restrict air flow to the engine and degrade engine efficiency, and therefore, fuel economy.

 

The "gas" pedal is a misnomer. It doesn't regulate fuel flow, but instead airflow. It throttles (restricts) the flow of air. It is restricting the airflow anytime the throttle pedal is less than fully pressed.

A partially clogged air filter merely acts like being unable to fully depress the throttle pedal, limiting maximum power. If you aren't at full throttle, then you aren't being limited by a clogged air filter. Even at full throttle with a clogged air filter, the car will monitor the air/fuel ratio and limit the amount of fuel injected based on the available air.

Carbureted vehicles can suffer poor fuel economy due to a clogged air filter since the air/fuel ratios aren't monitored or adjusted by a computer. Every car made after 1996 has a fuel injected engine.

 

Yeah, it's a little counterintuitive, but a slightly clogged engine air filter is no longer big deal, as it was with carbureted engines: the computers and fuel injectors adjust. It might even improve mpg?

 

Thank you for this list of services. I think that's really helpful.

 

ARE YOU SAYING THAT THIS WAS THE FIRST TIME THAT YOUR 2007 PRIUS HAD THESE THINGS DONE?;
your spak plugs were changed at 229k?=My spark plugs were last replaced at 229,000 miles by Firestone
Also first time FLUSH at 209k? =Radiator fluid drain/refill at 209,000 miles by Firestone
First time flush at 193k????= Invertor coolant, and transmission fluid drain/refill at 193,000 miles by Toyota dealership
First time for brakes at 194k???=Front brake pads and rotors replaced at 194,000 miles by 3rd party mechanic

 

He did say "last replaced" - sounds like he has taken pretty good care of his car, and the most recent work would be relevant to the change schedule.