Trailer hitch?

Using the installation instructions:

• Bumper beam tabs:
  • Draw-Tite: use a big-nice person crescent wrench to bend 15 degrees (+)
  • Curt: use a big-nice person hammer to beat it flat
• cross beam to bulkhead:
  • Draw-Tite: shows a square with a cut-out (+)
  • Curt: appears rectangular welded on the edges
• receiver tube lip:
  • Draw-Tite: no reenforcement around the end
  • Curt: reenforcement to minimize deformation (+)
• receiver tube to cross beam:
  • Draw-Tite: single plate welded to both
  • Curt: two pieces, cut and welded (+)

My big problem is the 1 1/4" receiver versus the 2" receiver needed for my wife's wheel chair carrier. I'm thinking a 1 1/4" draw bar and a 2" receiver tube. Weld it up, prime, and paint, problem solved.

Bob Wilson

 

You could buy one of these.
http://m.autozone.com/trailer-hitch-hitch-balls-and-towing-accessories/miscellaneous-towing-accessories/reese-towpower-6-in-length-1-1-4-to-2-in-3500-lbs-class-ii-receiver-tube-adapter/207590_0_0/

 

I had one but in this case, I may need more ground clearance. But that would be the part I would have welded or fixed to the draw bar used to raise the ground clearance. Like many things in life, 'some assembly is required.'

Bob Wilson

 

I did it without, which meant things were tight but reaching up to unclamp the bumper slots and sensor wires was easier. More clearance would have made them too far away.

 

So are you thinking that the Draw-Tite hitch might be the better way to go? I am trying to decide on what one to purchase. Also, Bob, do you think from these instructions that a 45min to an hour installation might be possible?

 

Even now being familiar with all the connectors & brackets, the effort would still take me a few hours.

 

I just ordered the Curt via a local distributor and installer. The open end of the the Draw-Tite cross-bar means moisture can enter and lead to other problems. I also like the reenforce lip of the Curt receiver.

All up, $350 including installation by techs who do it for a living.

Bob Wilson

 

How about this? Converts & lowers too.
1 1 4 Hitch Riser | etrailer.com

 

Perfect!

 

Probably needs a URL reference but it is something to consider.

We've had receiver hitches on our 2003 Prius, 2010 Prius, and 2014 BMW i3-REx. The only common problem has been too low going over aggressive speed 'dips'. Since I knew I'd be putting a 2" receiver fixture raise up, I'm comfortable with the Curt.

Bob Wilson

 

Sounds good. Thanks for all the helpful information. I found the etrailer.com video for the 2017 prius to be very helpful in better understanding how to complete the install.

The link is Draw-Tite 24944 | etrailer.com

 

Both products appear to fully meet our requirements so it then comes down to minor differences. If I were installing it myself, the Draw Tite looks to be a good solution and I certainly prefer seeing a tab bent, Draw Tite, than smashed with a hammer, Curt. However, the installer plans to use a metal cutter to remove the tab which makes more sense. It helps that I can hire a local installer to do the work as opposed to me learning on my first job. <GRINS>

Bob Wilson

 

To go to 2", would any of the adapters be so long that the leverage would be more than desired? Too bouncy or too heavy sticking way back there?

An option is to take the receiver to a welding shop and have them crop off the 1-1/4" tube and weld on a 2" tube.

 

This isn't my first rodeo:

Notice the 2" receiver extends to be even with the rear bumper cover. But the wheel chair carrier dipped down which led to various 'scrape' events. So,

You'll notice there is a wedge, an off road suspension wedge, that corrected the sag.

Now @john1701a showed the 1.25" receiver is low and at least 6-8" recessed. So my problem is to extend the 2" receiver to the rear and up. I may still have a 'sag' problem but this is just another 'wedge' problem. The BMW i3-REx is on 19" wheels versus our 15" Prius Prime wheels so I may also have a (19-15)/2 ~= 2" height problem.

What @john1701a could do is measure the height of the receiver tube above the roadway and the depth from the rear bumper cover. It doesn't have to be exact but from the hole that the pin goes through would be perfect since the adapter dimensions above the road and distance to the rear would be great. Measuring the unloaded angle of the receiver would also help:


Bob Wilson

 

MIkeDee: what bike rack do you have? Does the rack 'sag' much?