2010 Gen III Prius Rear Wheel Hub Assembly Replacement Issues

Couple of things I can think of:

1. Rear speed sensor wire is disconnected to the new bearing.
2. 12 volt battery negative cable was not disconnected at the outset of the swap, and the car is detecting some anomaly. Whenever the caliper is pulled off, and then reinstalled, it's good to tromp the brake pedal multiple times, get everything "seated", before reconnecting 12 volt neg. cable.

Also, it'd be good to check the caliper piston is oriented correctly, locked on the inner brake pad's pin on backing plate. See the brake pdf (attached) for more info on alignment. A simple way to check now for drag: raise the rear of car, and try spinning both rear wheels. If there's heavy drag, it's lkely misaligned. Slight drag is normal. Or simpler: after a drive, feel rear wheels. If there's excessive drag they'll be hot.

 

Just drive a few blocks and light will clear

 

The sensor wire might also be connected, but damaged. There's been at least two reports here of the wire being damaged by not being disconnected prior to hub removal. It's maybe hard to get at the connector while the hub's still on? At any rate, when the hub comes free, it can be with some force, stress/break the wire and/or connector.

So even if everything still looks ok, there might be damage in the connector or the wire.

 

The plastic Casing around the sensor is a bit fiddly and opens like a clam shell. Not intuitive when looking at it. But when you have it apart, you can see what is going on. That could be a potential failure point, this leading to issues.

It could also be that the brake pads and Caliper were taken off and the piston was too tight to allow rotor to be placed back on with the pads. If you move the Caliper piston to open it, then do not pump the brakes prior to reconnecting the 12 volt negative, it might trip the ABS and other systems.

 

Weird, I do the opposite. When I've had the caliper off the rotor, rotated the piston and reassembled everything, I'll purposely pump the brake pedal, make sure everthing's seated, prior to reconnecting the 12 volt. My logic being to avoid the car's systems detecting excess brake pedal travel, throwing codes. So far it's worked, having had it open twice now.

 

Read the last paragraph of my post and we are saying the same thing.

 

I thought you were saying "do not pump the brakes prior to reconnecting the 12 volt negative" and Mendel was saying to do exactly that ... ?

-Chap

 

I tried to outline the most likely scenario I think happened in "If, Then, Consequence" layout. Sorry if I did not state it clearly.

I have done a rear hub assembly on a 2010 Prius once and the piston was hanging up on the pads and would not allow the rotor back in. Had to get "the dice" tool out to push the piston in far enough to allow everything to fit back together. Once assembled and wheel on, pumped the brakes, then put the negative on the 12 v battery.

No codes and a quieter ride.

Hope that helps.

 

@Raytheeagle I looked again at what I quoted from you (my post #6), and it finally clicked: I'm misreading "then do not pump the brakes". It should be read as "If you then do not pump the brakes, you could subsequently trip the...". Understand now.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. As an engineer, my communications skills can occasionally leave something to be desired.

 

Get the codes read?

 

That's for the right rear speed sensor. Worth looking at the wiring and connection again. Did he disconnect the speed sensor prior to removal of the old hub assembly?

 

Hi
Did you find the solution for c0210 code?
I have same problem and I have change the wiring and wheel hub but code is still there?