Can i save my 07 pruis?

When the battery is failing you'll notice strange behavior in the display such as showing 3bars, then 1 bar, then sudden jump to full green & back down 1.

If you reset the codes the car should drive normally till the HV error code triggers again which might be as little as couple minutes. The error code should show which block is triggering the failure. Looking at the data, cell block 1 looks low compared to the other blocks.

 

The problem area, likely a bad module, can be identified as having a lower voltage or higher impedance than the rest. The car measures blocks of 2 modules. The problem could also be corroded bus bars or corroded and broken sense wires.

The custom PIDs have a delta V PID that calculates high - low for you. You should reset the code and see if you can get some higher current out of the battery. You need some current flow to see the problem. You can do a reverse stall test. While in reverse hold the brake down firmly and start adding some gas pedal this draws substantial battery current. This is a torture test of the battery so don't get carried away. Also, don't let your foot off the brake and crash your car.

Torque tip: Rather than add a bunch of guages to the screen you can see live data from the add guage screen. Go to the point of assigning a value to a guage and the just scroll up and down the list to see voltages and impedances.

 

Wow, that data is hard to interpret. Run another test. 30 straight seconds charging in drive. 30 seconds discharging in reverse. Record ONLY the 14 block voltages and [PRIUS]HV Battery Current(Amp). The response time is quicker with less items recorded.

I cleaned up your spreadsheet in a Google doc but can't post it here.

On charge the block eight voltage climbs higher than the rest. On discharge blocks one and two seem to be dropping out.

Brad

 

When the HV Battery Current(Amp) is at the highest, i see 1&2 blocks dropping the most with #1 being worst.

So like goldfinger said, it measures 2 modules within that block.

Cleaned up 1 decimal version uploaded.

 

Yep, I saw that also. But on charge block eight stands out as the highest. Totally shot modules or blocks will be both the highest on charge and the lowest on discharge. That's just not happening in this pack. I suspect that all the modules are at greatly different SOC. Block 8 is at a high state of charge. Blocks 1 and 2 are at a low state of charge. Running a steady state 30 seconds charging and 30 seconds discharging test would give a better picture of what is going on.

The next step to do the least amount of work is to charge all the modules to the same voltage. Get a charger that can be set to stop at a specific voltage. This will bring all the modules to roughly the same SOC. Choose a voltage that allows at least 5 minutes of charging on each module. Some will take much more time.

Brad

 

I'm not much of a battery expert but I do really like using Rock Auto for aftermarket part. I'm not sure if the cost savings would equal out with the cost of shipping outside of the US. You seem mechanically inclined so it doesn't seem like it would be hard to replace just the catalytic converter

RockAuto Mobile Catalog

Good luck to you my 08 has 224,000 and I would love to get it as far as your has gone

 

Time 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Amps
26:55.9 18.70 18.49 19.21 18.78 19.00 18.62 19.76 19.31 18.42 18.38 18.20 18.21 18.21 18.10 -24.3
26:56.9 18.70 18.49 19.21 18.78 19.00 18.62 19.76 19.31 18.42 18.38 18.20 18.21 18.21 18.10 -24.3

28:11.3 14.12 15.98 15.54 16.22 15.27 16.11 15.43 15.47 16.36 16.39 16.38 16.39 16.35 16.23 8.4
28:12.3 14.16 15.96 15.39 16.17 15.36 16.07 15.42 15.45 16.28 16.37 16.34 16.30 16.35 16.18 8.4

Delta V 4.58 2.51 3.67 2.56 3.63 2.51 4.33 3.84 2.06 1.99 1.82 1.82 1.86 1.87


I cleaned up just a few lines from AJ's spreadsheet. Two are charging (negative amps) and two discharging (positive amps). Running steady state charges and discharges evens out the data. Delta V was calculated between the first and third lines. Big delta V is bad. Widespread delta V is bad. So the weak modules are hiding in block 1 with blocks 7,8,3, and 5 close behind.

So AJ, how much work do you want to put in this? What charger do you have?

Brad

 

That's a cheap low power charger. The real problem is the slow, under 1 amp maximum discharge rate. It takes forever to discharge at that rate. One module could take up to six hours to discharge. Going through the whole battery just once would be over 150 hours.

This is the charger I recommend. Turnigy Reaktor 2 x 300W 20A Balance Charger . It's two chargers in one case. It charges and discharges at up to a 20 amp rate on each channel. It needs to be powered from a 12 volt lead acid battery to discharge at 20 amps as it pumps the discharge energy back into the 12 volt battery. That would give you the fire power needed to get through a whole battery in a reasonable time.

That's a decent deal IF you can keep your old battery. You could put the junkyard battery in and start driving. Then you would have time to cycle and test your old battery. The junkyard battery will fail at some point. With a spare battery for parts the wheels will fall off the car before you run out of battery modules.

Brad

 

It was discussed in this thread: Replace Hybrid Battery -- Where to buy dead battery to repair? | Page 3 | PriusChat but the original poster there didn't seem to know much. I think user @strawbrad was the one who suggested it, so he would be the one to ask

 

It is possible to take all the modules from a Gen 3 battery and install them in your Gen 2. The modules are the same. The outer cases are not. That will give you a few more model years to look for.

Here's a manual for the Reaktor.

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_148755754076215&key=8a24c98a696b4e5723db293f62190b87&libId=izdgoy0e010004o4000DAaswkq24r&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rcgroups.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3F2115921-Turnigy-Reaktor-300W-20A-6S-Balance-Charger%2Fpage4&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fibuyrc.com%2Fmanual%2F75P-0620-Charger.pdf&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=Turnigy%20Reaktor%20300W%2020A%206S%20Balance%20Charger%20-%20Page%204%20-%20RC%20Groups&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fibuyrc.com%2Fmanual%2F75P-0620-Charger.pdf

All the hobby chargers use basically the same format. Once you figure out the button pushing sequence it's easy. What's unique about the Reaktor is it's regenerative discharge. The Reaktor discharges the test battery back into the supply battery. This is why it can discharge at 20 Amps while most hobby charges are limited to 1 amp. You can use any 12 volt lead acid car battery to power the Reaktor. It does take some effort to manage the supply battery sink. You have to make sure the supply battery does not get over or under discharged.

Brad