Audio Upgrade with 4 channel Amp & Mono Amp powering 2 10s Model 3 Tech Package NON-JBL. Update 2/17

oh trust me, I know. It used to take me an hour a door on Civics, shoving that 12 awg through the factory molex. That, and my fingers were hurting for hours afterwards. There was no way to do it fast. The hard part was shoving it through the rubber sleeve. There was zero room for that, and so tight the coat hanger wouldn't do the trick. So it was shoving it in a cm at a time. lol.

You have a panel popper to get that dash board cover off?

I just felt around that thing with my fingers and I don't even feel it give. I thought I was going to have to pull the dash apart.

 

can I ask what may be a stupid question? why did you go with 2-way speakers in the front doors and 3-ways in the back doors?

 

NguyenCB7, you mentioned that you tapped the stock rear speaker wires to get a signal to your powered sub. I'm assuming you did the same for the 4 channel amp install. What did you use for the remote turn on signal?

I ordered some Kicker speakers all around, with the initial plan to run them all off the stock head unit. However, I do have an old/never installed Alpine PDX 4.100 lying around that I've been considering whether or not it is worth the hassle to install. I have a little comfort level installing stereo equipment in cars, but I've never installed an amp with a stock head unit. Also, running speaker wires to the doors does not seem like fun at all.

I've considered picking up an AudioControl LC7i for use as a line out converter (a bit overkill, it would seem) and possibly adding a Kicker 11HS8 Hideaway powered sub down the line if I'm not satisfied with just the speaker and possibly amp upgrade.

 

Nice work! So it doesnt affect the car's electrical system in any way at all?

I intend to fit up a monoblock and a 4 channel amp in my gen4..but im not sure whether it would affect the circuitry...

 

Your first post in this thread indicated that you found the easiest way to run power from the battery to inside the cabin was via the passenger side after removing the glove compartment for access. I've taken the glove box out twice and can't seem to find a place to fish the power wire through. What am I missing?

 

I found where I'm assuming you went through. There's a plastic bracket to the right of the air filter that obstructs it. I ended up using the driver's side.

 

I'm surprised you got rid of the powered sub. I ended up going with the same Rockford Fosgate one you had and it's more than plenty for my bass needs. If anything, it overpowers my Kicker coaxials in the doors and dash. I still haven't installed the Alpine 4 channel amp and am only considering it because I already have it. Then again, maybe that's why you went with the two kicker subs, to match up with your external amplifier powered coaxials.

 

I have fitted a mcintosh mc440 amplifier..caused my 12v battery to die countless of times...

So i removed it and fitted a tru technology b4100 amplifier...same shit happened! Basically everyday im jumpstarting my car...

I dont know what to do now...can anyone help?

Will a class D amplifier draw lesser current compared to class A amp that i have used?