12v Battery Initialization Procedure

I will check them tonight, but pretty sure they are tight. I am well aware of the potential problems with loose battery connections.

Side note - I was cursing all the way realizing all the stuff I had to move to get the battery out, but going back in was maybe 1/4 of the time. In the dark. With a flashlight.

 

It was not meant as a insult.

 

Update: I had a few minutes free here at work so I went out and put the MFD in diagnostic mode, display check - battery shows 12.2 (it better, being new). browsed the other menus then put it back in regular mode and started it - the CM is working again! Will keep an eye on it, if it goes out again, I guess I will have to have it replaced.

 

12.2 V is not so great, less than 50% SOC for an AGM battery. 12.8 V is 100%, 11.8 V is 0%.

Was that with no load (push start button once)? What's the voltage with load (push start button again)? Turn on the blower fan or headlights, see what happens.

 

I believe the defroster was activated but no blower, but the radio was off, otherwise the start button w/out the brake pedal. Will have to check with things running.

 

Just teasin'

If I had thin skin, I would have deserted this board back in 2009.....although, except for one brief period, I have to say most people here are quite pleasant. I only have one person on my ignore list....and no, it is not Patrick Wong (Bisco, he's close ).
Kris

 

Try measuring it with a digital multimeter, everything off. The MFD method is fraught with variables, methinks.

 

I will, but not until this weekend and then with my trusty analog meter. My digital MM is screwy, I don't trust it a bit. The battery showed 12.4V after the drive home, 14V with the lights etc on. I will continue to check for the next few days.

But my face is sure red. When I left work, I checked things again, and when I turned the lights on while in diagnostic mode - the CM display blanked out again. Sheepishly, I checked the dash light dimmer and that fixed it

 

Those sound like normal readings. When the car is in "ready" mode, the inverter is charging the battery at up to 14 Volts. Your DMM might be okay.

You might want to check on this forum for one of the many threads on checking the 12V battery.

 

Will do, thanks Andrew

 

I just bought Toyota prius v 2012 model installed new 12V battery but after that clock , radio stations and Trip A & B and MPG disappeared, I managed to reset time & radio stations but I don't know how to reset milage per gallon and Trip A & B ,
can anyone help pls . Thanks,

 

congrats and welcome!

i think those are lost forever.

 

@Mendel Leisk , thanks for this post. I will need to replace my 12 volt battery soon and your memory saver Cord might be my answer to not having to worry about anything not working or resetting in the car.

 

Do you have a jump pack with cig lighter socket? Or maybe a second car (with cig lighter socket), with something like this, to extend reach:



Even a set of jumper cables could work with a second car, connecting at the jump point and a ground.

deep breath:

that said, whenever I’ve done DIY brake work I purposely disconnect the 12 volt. IIRC I’ve not had to do the window auto-up reteach. Trip meters and radio presets do get lost.

 

I have to his one to connect to.

 

Do you power on before or after you plug in the obdII? Or does it matter?

 

No I don’t, no point. Might even be risky.

 

I meant do you power your jump pack or power source to the obdII before or after you connect it to the obdII port.

 

My jump pack is constant on, so I would surmise it doesn’t matter. Some of the OBD power cords have indicator lights both end (to confirm each connection). The Clore one only has one indicator light, so I think connect first to the one most iffy, maybe the OBD end?