Adding backup camera to 2012 non-nav Prius 2 with touch screen

Hi our1vue, thank you for your hints.

Originally, the OEM camera displayed the picture on the OEM head unit, that I replaced with an android-based system.

I just came up from my garage: I tried to put some 6V on the white wire and connect the red and black to the video cable, but nothing happens.

I also have another question: how does the system "know" when the car is put in reverse ? I'm talking both about the OEM system and the aftermarket one...

I'm really banging my head on the wall with this camera!

[I'm posting the same message in two different threads, maybe it's interesting for both of them]

I managed to make the camera work by applying 6V from a AC/DC converter. The aftermarket system has a wire called "reverse in" that has to be plugged on a 12V source in order for the picture to appear. When I plug it in a random 12V source, the picture on the system automatically switches to the rear camera. This is a big step forward!

Now, my next two challenges are:
- find a 12V source behind the kickpanel that activates only in reverse gear (any idea?)
- find some "native" 6V somewhere (I know I could easily build a little converter as explained in other threads, but I love challenges)

Actually, with my multi tester I found a 5,8V source (which I tried but unfortunately it's not enough for the camera to operate) and a couple of 8V sources (which I didn't try because I don't want to blow my camera... especially now that I know it works!)

 

I've thought of getting one of these, it's $120.00, but it seems like an easier install as the wiring into the radio/display is already sorted out:

Anyone have any experience with this particular unit?

Not sure why the amazon link isn't showing up, but it's a:
Toyota Rear Backup Camera Kit for Camry, Corolla, Prius, Rav4 (2012, 2013, 2014)

 

I did this already on my 2014 Toyota Prius two that did not have the camera, I actually just bought the OEM Camera kit on ebay and had that installed, works good.

 

Sure, it's this item here
Toyota Rear Backup Camera Kit for Camry Corolla Prius RAV4 2012 2013 2014 | eBay

From what I understand it should be the actual stock camera that would come with some of Toyota vehicles


iPhone ?

 

Funny how the camera is installed in the middle of the trunk. I believe the factory installed cameras should be on the left side of the license plate - where I also installed mine.

Also, the stock camera looks totally different:
2014 Toyota Prius Rear View Camera 86790-47040 10 11 12 13 14 | eBay

 

No problem and yeah, I had noticed their was already a cut out and place already established for the camera system, just had to pop it out, run the wires through and mount it back, heard some had the same thing but you had to drill a little hole in the encloser


iPhone ?

Edit : here's a video of an installation, the video is fairly quick and was done very well

 

This is the same kit I purchased from Amazon. I installed it in both of my 2012 Prii. Works great.

 

I wanted to post the link to it at Amazon but for some reason I can not post Url link.

 

I'd like your opinion.
2015 Prius stock radio with backup camera working fine. I want to add a 12 volt front camera to the existing monitor. I have a relay set up but not sure about splitting the video input on the rear of the stock radio. It doesn't look like a shielded pair. Beat-Sonic is out of stock on their BCUS but I'm not sure I need that. I've been a Ham Radio guy for over 60 years so I'm not afraid of soldering etc.
The plan would be when going forward (parking) I would just switch the camera input relay. The front camera would always be powered.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Regards, Don
Naples FL

 

You're correct about the factory rear camera. The radio is going to be confused going forward. I'll need an addiitonal kit from BeatSonic for $110 and it's just not going to be worth it.
I think I'll go with a Pioneer HU. They work 'cause I have one on my '09. I was just hoping to keep the factory look and ALL the functions for the display but I'm pretty sure I'll lose most of them.
Regards...

 

Question. Would it be the same difficulty if I wanted to install a rear dash cam on the back window?

 

Don't think so. In that case you wouldn't need to pull any wires to the front of the car, just get power for the cam somewhere. I've been thinking about the same. Haven't had time to investigate the power source yet.

 

I thinkg he talks about dash cams that record on a memory card.

 

First of all, thanks to our1vue for the very detailed post.
I confess, I have no Prius. I have another japanese car: Mazda CX5,
However, the back up camera issue is similar.
In my case, 12V cam was connected to 12V ACC by the car diller, because they did not know,
how to power the cam by HU 6V, As a result, inline power converter has burned within a year.
I did know nothing about the rear camera. I know much more now, thanks to diller.
The camera labeled "3.3V", so, I had chance it is alive. I have disconnected camera from 12V first.
To check the camera itself, I have cut the insulation on the cable between the power adaptor and camera,
It has red (for +3.3V) and coax cable inside, where the shield wire used as "-3.3V", too.
Without cutting wires completely, I connect 2 x 1.5V batteries,"-" to the shield, "+" to the camera red.
Video signal wire remains, goes through the burnt converter PCB all the way down to HU. TEST was successful, cam detected,
works as it should. Than, I've used standalone DC-DC LM2596 stepdown, powered by 12V Acc, set to 3.3V, instead of the batteries.
It works, but the pulse voltage of LM2596 makes the picture "noisy". I made the stepdown convereter myself using LM317, 2 resistors and 2 capacitors, ran the wires from HU "+6V" and "-6V" (white and orrange in your setup). Again, everything is working. I've been ready to cut away the original converter, but did not, left it for a while. I cut ONLY red cam wire right behind the inline converter, and this setup does not work. When the red cam wire re-connected to the "burnt" inline converter, setup works fine again. What is inside broken inline converter still affecting the signal? I am sure, that 3.3V + and - connected to cam wires, Video + is intact. Any ideas? I don't want to cut out the old converter PCB until fully realise it's function.