110 VAC inverter installation

I have a 1100w inverter ready to go, I just clamp it to the battery. Leave car running and turn off all accessories

 

Is a 2000 W/4000 W inverter too big?
You mentioned clamps. Did you attach them to the cables that came with the inverter?
If so what type of clamps did you use? The clamps I purchased from Pep Boys require cutting the pole mounts off the cable and didn't want to do that before I know my inverter is not to big. I don't want damage anything.

 

Probably, yes. Or rather drawing that current will possibly damage the battery. Drawing 1000W with a 4000W inverter should be ok.

I used a lug, and just put it on the bolt holding the post connector.

 

During our Matthew-caused day and a half without power I used a Xantrex ProWatt SW1000 Sine Inverter via short heavy cables with heavy-duty "alligator" clips attached to the 12v battery.
It's marketed as 1KW continuous and 2KW peak surge.
The battery is a recently installed Optimus.
I ran a heavy duty extension cord into the house & it handled the chest freezer, also swapped it out for a coffee maker & a bunch of other electronic loads (via a power strip), and back again.
It would not handle the Fridge - though technically it should have - is that the inductance problem mentioned above?
I was thinking of trying a larger inverter as well as creating a better connection to the 12v battery.
Also, has anyone tried a 240v inverter to power a well pump?
Our well pump is 1 1/2 HP & I wonder how huge it's surge is?
There are AC starting/well pump caps in the outside electrical box at the well head, so perhaps they buffer the start-up surge?
Thanks - David in SE-GA

 

Glad to hear that worked for you! Alligator clips don't make a very good connection, so a short set of heavy gauge wires connected directly will support a higher current draw. You also should have an in-line fuse to protect the car's electrical system. There are other threads on here that have lots of details and ways to do the install (@bwilson4web in particular has provided outstanding documentation and insights). Pure sine wave inverters like the SW1000 are the best choice, and most folks say the 1000 Watts (2000 Surge) just about maxes out the capacity of the 12 v battery circuit in Gen II. With care, it is possible to tap the larger HV battery with a special inverter (because the volts and currents are higher), but if you can keep your freezer going with the smaller unit you always can move freezer packs to the fridge to keep things cold. It is nice to know you can manage things in an emergency; with a cold freezer and hot coffee, you are in good shape!

For the well pump and refrigerator, AC motors and compressors pull a lot of amps to start, and the load can vary with the condition of the unit; there also is a benefit to reducing the length of your extensions if you have a long run to the well head. Excess length causes a voltage drop that also can make it tough on your motors. If you have an inexpensive plug-in Kill-a-Watt meter, you can check your distributions and draws at different points.

Please keep sharing the benefits of your experience!

 

Did you use an inline fuse or just wire it directly to the battery?

 

Are you guys hooking this to the battery pack or the 12v battery sitting in the corner of the trunk?

 

I am

 

The inverters that are easy to find are 12 volt input and so they'll be connected to the 12 volt system and have the roughly 1000 watt limit that was mentioned upthread.

Connecting an inverter to the traction battery is a way more specialised project and we have other threads about doing that.

 

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