Door Lock Actuator Malfunction?

i think you're spot on.

 

It could be the actuator, though if it seems to almost lock/unlock the actuator is still functioning. It may be something is jamming the mechanism. Perhaps try a little lubricant on all moving parts in the chain from manual "knob" to the actuator before replacing the actuator. I would use silicone spray but "white grease" would be good too. Still have to remove the panel though.

 

I am having the exact same issue on my 2010 gen 3 with 27K miles. I'm a bit bummed that I'm having this issue so early on. Dealer gave me a quote of $400 plus labor. Not sure what I'm going to do.

 

Aftermarket option available.

 

I just had my driver's door actuator replaced on my 2013 with about 38k miles. About $400+ to fix. It was covered under my extended warranty.

 

I just started having the same issue on my 2010. We replaced the batteries in both fobs but that didn't work. All the other doors lock and unlock fine with the fob, and I can unlock and lock with the buttons in the car once inside just the drivers door will not unlock with the fob and the car keeps beeping at me. Guess she's mad.

 

I know this is a bit of an old post... but just wanted to report my experience with my Gen 3.

Had issues with the door driver's not unlocking with the key fob intermittently. Other times it would beep about 8 times (with the lights also) and still not unlock, I would have to manually reach in and unlock the door.

Looked it up and everyone said it's the door actuator, car 12v battery or the key fob batteries.

I switched out the batteries in the key fob, same, so I took it into the dealership...

They checked the 12v everything was fine there - so they said it was the door actuator that needed to be replaced. They were going to charge me the low price of $700. I thanked them and got my car back.

Went online and got the driver side door actuator along with door pry tools (about $60 total, more on this later), and few screw drivers.

There's a gen 2 post with photos that was really helpful along with a youtube video on getting the door cover off.

I don't do a lot of car work myself but it took me about 2 hours to get it done, if I were to do it again I could do it in under an hour.

It was $60 because I got an OEM actuator with warranty. I saw that it's most likely just the little motor inside the actuator that needs to be replaced (which would be about $5) but I don't have a lot of time and tools to fiddle and make things fit/work. Take out the old, put in the new. I figure saving $600+ was good enough for me.

TL;DR: I'm not a car person, it took me about 2 hours to replace the Door actuator and save $600.

 

you got a part number?
(might come in handy one day)

edit: driver side is DORMAN 931401 {#6904006180, 690400C050, 6904042250} Latch and Actuator Assembly
$150.- at rockauto/

 

I had the same issue on my 2010. It was a bad actuator. It was replaced under the extended warranty.

 

I also have the same issue with my 2010 Prius, on the driver's (RHD) door. However, it is not as easy to get the part here in Australia, as the Prius is not a very popular vehicle here. I found an ebay listing in the US for a genuine used part, which also mentioned the below.

"For sale is a good used Prius Door Lock/ Actuator Fits:
Front Driver Door 2004-2013 Prius,
2005-2012 Tacoma,
2007-2014 Fj Cruiser,
2006-2014 Yaris"

I have also found a listing here in Australia for a used part on a Yaris. It is only AU$65. Should I take a gamble that it may fit?
Is there anyway to find out if it will before purchasing?

Genuine Toyota Yaris NCP90/91 Door Lock Actuator Right H Front 10/2005-10/2011 | eBay

 

Go to one of the online dealers with the parts catalogs and diagrams online, like villagetoyotaparts.com, look up the door actuators for that model Yaris and your model Prius, and see if the part numbers match.

(Note: Village is a US dealer; if you know a URL for an Australian dealer with catalogs online, that would be even better.)

-Chap