Hello, I replaced a bad module in my 2006 Prius back in April 2016. After I got everything back together, it started right up and ran fine until early August 2016, when the triangle of death appeared again. I found another module had very low voltage, so I replaced it and reassembled as before. This time, the engine won't start up and the triangle and other indicators aren't clearing as before. Why could this be? I got an EBD2 bluetooth scanner unit (LELink and EngineLink software on iPhone) and all 14 battery blocks (two modules in a block) have voltages between 15.28 and 15.45. It looks like the main output is 214V. Surely this is about the same as it was before. Unfortunately, the EBD2 scanner is not showing the trouble codes. I have contacted customer support about it. If I get the car into diagnostic mode, I can see some codes but I have no idea what they mean and the "clear code" control on the display doesn't seem to do anything. Any hybrid gurus out there with some insight? I can't really afford to take it to the dealer at this time. They wanted to sell me a new traction battery for about $3500 when I had my initial trouble, and so did another local repair shop who is supposed to be "hybrid trained." All they do is swap out the whole pack and clear the trouble codes. There is a service not far from here that will drive to your location and replace the whole pack for about $800, but I think the existing pack still has some life left in it. Thanks, Stephen
Do you have any module data? Voltages under load are much different. A bad module can look fine open, but under load drops like a rock. You didn't charge or discharge the modules separate from the assembly, did you? (Ppsssst, OBD2) Where did you get that CSV?
you probably didn't lock in the orange interlock on the battery. you have to press it downward to lock it in place. If you did do that step correctly, then just unplug the 12v battery for a minute and then your car should restart and all the codes would be cleared
It's funny, I have forgotten that 10 times I forgot to latch the safety plug when I started working on these cars..
I don't suppose I have any data "under load". I was hoping for the same results as before, where I just swapped out the module, put it all back together and it worked. I remember reading about simulating load with a light bulb or something, but I was hoping to get lucky a second time. I didn't do any charging/discharging cycles. The replacement modules arrived with about the same charge as the other modules (I have two extras left over). CSV: In the EngineLink app for iPhone, I did a long press on a custom page > then I picked a choice from the menu, like "Small Dial" > then I chose Edit at the top right of the screen. That allowed me to browse the files until I found the Prius Gen 2 file, which I loaded up. (This site is driving me nuts with "unexpected database error.") You know, I unplugged it and plugged it in again 2 or 3 times, but I thought to myself that it didn't feel like a good solid connect but thought it was probably ok since it seemed to lock down. That lock down triggers a switch, too, I think. I'll go try it again as soon as the outside temperature drops below 100. This is the hottest week of the year in Central Texas. That would be wonderful if it's the only problem I have remaining. Thanks for the input!
The service/safety plug switch is part of the interlock circuit. The car won't go "Ready" unless it is complete. To test modules, it ks best to do it in the car, under load while watching/data logging all the modules together.Datalog with total current and voltage so you can see where dis/charge is on the log I would love to get my hands on that CSV if you are willing to share, it has some info I don't have for torque. The worst will be outliers from the rest. Bad modules will drop lower than the rest under load, and rise higher than the rest when charging. A bad module is like a crushed water bottle. It fills up faster, and empties faster.
Nice diagram! Thanks for that. SUCCESS! I went back out in the 102 degree heat and unplugged it again and the negative 12V battery terminal.. Some of the metal from the cover seemed to be bent forward so I bent it back toward the battery -- just in case. I reinstalled the plug while looking at it VERY closely, and making sure every motion was FIRM. I then rubbed it gently and said, "come on now, baby!" I reconnected the 12V, powered it on and the triangle of death was gone, but other indicator lights were still on. I turned it off, powered it on again, and BINGO! Back in business! Woohoo! I am a computer programmer and you can run into the same sorts of things in programming. A missing colon or semicolon or something else silly can make you scratch your head sometimes. THANKS, GUYS! I hope that's the last module I have to replace for a while. I'll see if I can extract it from this thing. I'm not exactly sure how to do it but I guess it has to transfer over bluetooth somehow since it is a bluetooth device.
Glad you got it. If you don't touch it again for a year, you'll The Torque app for android has charting/logging capabilities, it is inexpensive, and you shoukd be able to import your csv files into it probably forgot to do it next time as well. Welcome to the mystery
You should consider performing preventative maintenance reconditioning on the pack. This will keep it healthy and serviceable much longer than if you do nothing. If no maintenance is done, you risk having more and more modules drop out over time. Our Prolong Battery Systems allow for as many quick, easy, in car hybrid battery reconditioning treatments as needed to keep the battery running strong. Your symptoms pattern match the majority of our customers.
I guess no one is immune from this one. I just finished replacing a bad cell and the ice wouldn't start. Prius Chat FTW!!
This is one of the more common issues. That plug is meant to be really removed, which it is. But not so easy to go back in. It's a safety disconnect, so its primary function is to quickly and easily disconnect!
