Replacing Inverter cooling pump

That video is pretty good, looks pretty easy. Just need to have 2 sets of hose pinch clamps.

 

That is a good video. It might try doing it without pulling the headlight but I'd definitely drain and replace the coolant, and I have some long pliers for the hose clamps and long extensions and a U joint for my socket set.

Be sure to wipe up coolant spills on finished surfaces. Good luck with.

 

I wouldn't worry about the hose clamps. Just plan to drain and refill your invertor with fresh coolant. You are going to have to buy at least 1 gallon of SLLC anyway you might as well drain the entire cooling lope and be set for another 50K miles. .02

 

Glad to hear it went so well. Congratulations. I bet you're a step above the "average" mechanic, at least around my neighborhood.

I need to do the 100K mile coolant change in my inverter and was thinking of changing the pump proactively on my '07. Thanks to your post, I'll probably go ahead and do it. Any advice on where to get the pump? My dealer wants about $180, and I see them on eBay for $60, presumably knock-offs.

 

1. Did you not have the inverter coolant pump replaced when Toyota offered the recall program?
2. Here is the thread that I authored in 2009 about how to replace the pump, written prior to the recall program:
How to Replace the Inverter Coolant Pump | PriusChat
3. If you need to buy a pump now, it is selling for $89.59 plus shipping here. Look for G9020 47031:
Parts.com® | Automotive Parts, Accessories and Merchandise
4. I would not buy a non-Toyota part.

 

1) Good question. I bought this car in December with 99K miles. A VIN search with Toyota shows no outstanding recalls, yet the Carfax report does not show the work having been done.

2) Do you think it's worth pulling the headlight? I'm not sure, especially since I plan on draining the coolant.

3) Thanks!

4) I agree, and I guess I'll assume the eBay deals are not OEM.

 

2) Well it is possible to get the pump out w/o removing the headlight assembly, especially if you unbolt the pump from its bracket and leave the bracket mounted to the car body.

 

Please help me out i have a prius 2004 in which runs good no problem on it, recently around 3 months i replace the P0A93 code the inverter pump the electric one in the fender with a new dealer one and 6 months earlier i replace the other pump down the fuse box the car. my car runs well but after all day using it long tris around town the vsc lights and red triangle lights up, i scan the car and no codes on it, then next day still the same and after driving it a little lights get off if i drive the car in short trips no problem but then after driving long ones lights come on again, then also get the car scan and the code P0A93 return but the part already replace recently, also i try to purge the system but the same problem can someone help me out on getting this solve????

 

Just replaced my inverter cooling pump in my 2004 after the code was pulled. Red triangle is still on display. Does the code need to be cleared for the red triangle light to go off.

Thanks

 

Disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes, then reconnect. That should clear existing fault codes.

 

Just replaced the Inverter Pump yesterday by removing the headlight method. Took just on 2 hours doing the plugs at the same time. I only lost a half cup full of coolant, so just topped off the tank. Did a test drive of 60 miles with no issues. Checked the coolant level this morning and it is at the full mark. I did not do any bleed on the system as I could not get the valve to crack open. Not sure if this will be an issue or not. The test drive got to 49.2mpg at one point in city driving and a green battery, but settled back to 46mpg at the highway speeds of 65-70mph.

This is the 3rd inverter pump in 245,000 miles. First was changed at 92,000 miles (recall) but failed again right away so it was replaced again under warranty.

 

You need to bleed the system. With car in ready take cap off the reservoir and look in there with flashlight should have very aggressive motion should look like its boiling. In ready wait till the engine shuts off and listen to that pump very closely should have nice consistent whine no gurgling at all.

You have to hold the petcock assy with a wrench while you wrench on the petcock so the whole thing doesn't snap off.

 

I just replaced the inverter cooling pump on a 2004 and I did it exactly the way this video shows. No part of this is difficult. I would not fight to replace the pump without removing the headlight. It's really not worth it. My new pump came with a bracket but I left the old bracket, which was secured by well rusted hardware, in place and replaced only the pump.

 

I just replaced my inverter water coolant pump at 292,200 after the first P0A92 code. Thought I'd share three alternative techniques that worked.

First, rather than hose clamps, I opted to use rubber plugs from Lowe's, available in the aisle with all the nuts and bolts. They're only a couple bucks. I carried the coolant control valve into the store when I replaced it (code P1121, same techniques as here) to make sure I got the right size. I didn't want to clamp my hoses since they've lasted so long—the originals—and sharp bends from crimping aren't great for the rubber.

Turns out the real benefit is that, with the system cool and the reservoir cap on, I lost virtually no coolant when I pulled the hoses off the pump and put each rubber plug in. (There was a small bit to wipe up, but with one hand pulling the hose off and the plug ready in the other, the internal pressure reduction as I pulled kept the coolant in the hose pretty well.)

20190704_143208_25 by Stephen Frost posted Jul 6, 2019 at 5:13 PM

A sped-up video from Luscious Garage covering the procedure said it took (them) about 15 min and they just lifted the inverter to get in there. Since this is only two bolts, I have skinny hands, and don't mind a little Tetris, I opted to try it this way. Removing and inserting the pumps with backing plate was through this orientation:

20190704_142934_HDR_25 by Stephen Frost posted Jul 6, 2019 at 5:13 PM

20190704_143023_HDR_25 by Stephen Frost posted Jul 6, 2019 at 5:13 PM

20190704_143053_HDR_25 by Stephen Frost posted Jul 6, 2019 at 5:13 PM

The inverter was raised 1.5 inches on wood blocks under each bracket.

I unbolted and unplugged the pump first before pulling the hoses off. (Small needle nose vice grips really helps to depress the lock lever to pull off the electrical plug. Also great for moving the hose clamps back.) I pulled and plugged the top hose, then drained the coolant in the pump into a cut-off 1-pint drinking water bottle base by tilting the pump over. I then pulled the bottom hose and plugged it. After I removed the old pump from the engine bay, I emptied a little more coolant out, then covered the water bottle with a blue paper shop towel to keep any particulates out. After the new pump was in and the bottom hose on, I used a funnel to refill the pump from the top before putting the top hose on.

20190704_143724_HDR_25 by Stephen Frost posted Jul 6, 2019 at 5:13 PM

What this did when I restarted the system was to leave almost no air in the loop. There was a little blip of a whine before going to the correct quiet hum, and the one bubble went out and into the reservoir. I did have a gallon of SLLC ready just in case, but I actually didn't need it.

 

Not necessary to touch the inverter just take the front bumper cover edge down its like 5 bolts and then take the headlight assy out that's another 2 bolts. Takes 5 mins. Change the headlight bulbs while your at it. Lots of room to work.

With bumper pulled down:

 

I think the headlamp removal procedure is easier.
But I ended up not doing that.
Had to removed the front 12mm bolts, used a small wooden block, to support the inverter slightly when I lifted it up.
That afforded me the opportunity to access the inverter pump directly without removing the brackets. Although, the new pump I ordered from Amazon, came with its own bracket though.

Surprising thing was that the pump was made in China.
My observed that the air filter was terribly out of way. Needed to be replaced.
Bleed the system after coolant replacement.