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Blower Motor - replaced and not working again - need advice

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by JKMill, Jul 17, 2016.

  1. JKMill

    JKMill Junior Member

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    Hello all,

    I've gotten a lot of great information here for our 2 cars over the years without ever posting before today, but need some specific information on a problem maybe someone has shared.

    Several weeks ago, the blower motor in my 2010 stopped blowing. It came on within a day or so, but failed again, so I replaced it with a new part from Rock Auto: TYC 700249.

    Thanks to previous posters here, it was very easy to do and worked great... for two weeks. The new fan just stopped again. I plugged the harness in and out several times and it did briefly come on a few times, but clearly something else is going on.

    I don't know if it's relevant, but after I took out the OEM fan, I experimented by removing the plate from its back that has wires and capacitors (actually, I don't know what I'm talking about) and connected the main prongs directly to a 12V battery. It came on right away. I installed the new fan anyway, figuring it was the plate/wires assembly portion that was bad.

    Any ideas? Experiences? The "resistor?"

    Thanks in advance! It's hot!

    JKMill
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    It's the control module that's bad, the unit the fan plugs into. I can sell you the part, I think it's about $35. Patrick Wong did this recently
     
  3. JKMill

    JKMill Junior Member

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    Looks like the Gen 3 cars have a different set up than Gen 2, with the control module integrated on the back (bottom) of the blower motor, so I don't think there is a stand-alone part available. Maybe the my new blower just went bad after 2 weeks, but I thought that was unlikely.
     
  4. BZzap!

    BZzap! Senior Member

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    You might want to watch this.
     
    IMkenNY likes this.
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Three possibilities:

    1. the control electronics on the new blower failed.
    2. the wiring harness between the blower and the AC amplifier has an intermittent connection.
    3. the AC amplifier itself has an intermittent problem.
     
  6. JKMill

    JKMill Junior Member

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    BZzap,
    Thank you for the video. That's the exact situation and model year. His result was that, after testing, it seemed to start working again so he reinstalled. I could ping the poster to see if there was a follow-up to the video.

    Patrick,
    Thanks for the ideas. I hope it's possibility #1. To test, I'll take off the control module and give the fan 12V directly. I have another fan en route. If it's #3, would I have been likely to experience some change in the performance of the AC itself at some point? It has always been ice cold. It seems like only the fan has had problems. Even without the fan working, you can hear the AC still switching on and off when I work the buttons.

    Might need to bite the bullet and go to a specialist, because #'s 2 and 3 are beyond my skills.

    Thanks again!
     
  7. BZzap!

    BZzap! Senior Member

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    I have to applaud the guy in the video for not being a parts changer. If it starts to work again, then let it develop. His diagnostic was done very well. Actually, this system is very easy to check out and if you have a digital volt meter you can pretty much pinpoint the troubled area without being a rocket scientist. That's why, at this point I would encourage you to diagnose the system yourself before you go off into a $$$ abyss.
     
  8. JKMill

    JKMill Junior Member

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    Update & thanks again:
    With the OEM, I did what he did, removed the control module and gave it 12V directly (worked). Pretty much isolated it to the integrated control module. Same deal with the new fan. Worked great for a , became intermittent, stopped, worked with 12V directly applied. It actually started working normally again as I was ready to pull it for return shipping and a refund. Pulled it anyway. Sent it back and have installed a new one already. Ordered a different manufacturer. New one is a Four Seasons. Returned one was a TYC. Interesting to see how the guts of the control module looked so different on the 3 different units. OEM seemed much more robust. Of course, that one failed.
    Hoping the latest works for more than a few weeks. Couldn't let it linger for experimenting's sake. In addition to really sucking if you need your car for a lengthy commute in 95 deg. heat, not being able to clear the windshield in a storm in traffic would be an exciting safety issue.