I don't know what to do, fix? junk? sell? 2006 Prius

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

Autobeyours.com or eBay for used Prius parts

Techinfo.toyota.com for repair manual info

You will need Mini VCI to bleed the brake hydraulic system after replacing the actuator.

You can probably save $1500 by DIY so don't be afraid to purchase the items and documentation listed above.

 

There are threads here on Priuschat on how to replace the brake actuator.
Like this one Brake Actuator Replacement | PriusChat

Use the search box here on Priuschat. (upper right hand corner) Do a search for brake actuator

 

Is this it:

2006 Toyota Prius Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

Another:

ACTUATOR ASSY | Genuine Toyota | 44500-47091

 

I pmd you

XT1585 ?

 

Next time you're at the dealer ask to see the "show room". They have new cars in there.

 

STOP DRIVING THE CAR!
What else does the car need to do (lack of brakes) and say to you (annoying ringing)?

Stupidity is getting yourself injured or killed, knowing the condition the car is in.
Tragedy is when your actions injure or kill innocent people.

This isn't paint by numbers. The Toyota repair manual comes very close.

Patrick already told you what to do in Post #3

Get the factory repair manual. This will be the best $15 you can spend.​

Looking at your situation objectively, it may be best to hire this out. I'm sure your life is worth more than $1900.

Mechanical aptitude-questionable.

Resourcefulness-low.
You were given the failing brake actuator diagnosis while at the dealership. You could have inquired on the part cost and part number, at that time, or with a phone call anytime later.

In post #4 above, references your same problem. The person who did the repair tells you how he found the part: "I sourced a used part near me from car-part.com (search for ABS pump)." Yes, multiple part numbers would show-up, but you could call your local Toyota parts department to see which part number is correct.

Commitment to repair-questionable.
Post #4 above again: your same problem and the repair procedure. Did you read it? If so, have you ordered miniVCI and a temporary subscription to Toyota TIS or AllDataDIY, as that person did? If no, why not?​

 

I'd like to mention something Far overlooked by most mechanics and owners. Brake fluid has a lifespan of about 18 months to 2 years. It is hygroscopic, which means it slowly collects moisture over time. Moisture boils at 212°F, brake fluid depending on dot 3,4,5 has a boiling point roughly between 380°F and 500°F. Additionally, this moisture corrodes the solenoids, slaves, lines, and abs pump, AND the pedal stroke simulator/master cylinder). The darkness of the fluid comes from worn seals and corrosion, but perfectly clear fluid can have wayyyy too much moisture as well. Before you go crazy and start swapping parts, bleed the whole system through with brand new fluid (as soon as you open a bottle of brake fluid it starts to go bad) and as previously mentioned, to do this well, you need a techstream or master tech. Although in a pinch I have been successful not using the tool by removing the abs pump relays and pumping the pedal a few times to discharge the pressure. This BIGGEST problem with doing these brakes in my opinion is recalibrating the linear valve offset. You have to bleed these gently, because if you go too fast without the scantool, it will lock off that portion of the hydraulics, thinking that there has been a loss of pressure. If that happens, you have to reset the abs memory. This is a complicated procedure even for good techs. It is a pain. The use of many (even high end)non factory scan tools can cause the loss of the linear valve calibration.
After all this, I have found that noise has completely disappeared after a complete fluid service, I've only had a couple come back. Bad fluid causes brake system failures most of the time, I haven't looked lately, buy I don't think there is a service campaign or updated part number for this (can anyone verify?) If there is, the part was faulty, if not, it is most likely wear from polluted fluid. Parts stores sell litmus strips for testing brake fluid moisture. I use them regularly and have found 90% of the cars I work on have unacceptable levels of moisture in the fluid. That hard pedal can be a bad pump though, and I know a lot of them are replaced. Also, if your cap bank is bad, that will also cause the abs pump to have a difficult time keeping up. Preventative maintenance is really important for getting these cars into the +200k range

XT1585 ? XT1585 ?