2010 Prius - Rear Hub Bearing replacement

Just a few thoughts, and someone with more smarts/experience will be along shortly. FWIW, I've not done this:

1. The rear is a lot easier than the front; if you're doing oil changes you can manage this.
2. Not sure.
3. IIRC, yes. I believe someone here had the Timken bearing side-by-side with the original, and was seeing similar serial no's, identical appearance.

Some thoughts:

Disconnect the 12 volt negative cable, to avoid possibly activating the brakes while the caliper is off the rotor.

Use a pair of M8x1.25 bolts (say 1" or a bit longer), screwed into the threaded holes on rotors to help in breaking it loose, as needed. It will likely require some work to get them screwed through, due to rust build-up. Just keep screwing it in, then back out, and blow out the loose rust. Eventually they will get through.

Someone here suggested a method for busting the hub loose, involving a threaded rod and some nuts. There's large openings in the hub face to facilitate this:

Solved, rear wheel bearing removal, easy way | PriusChat

At least one member here didn't disconnect the speed sensor plug before trying to break the hub loose, and ended up snapping off the connector. Better disconnect it first.

When assembling rear brakes, ensure inner pad pin is in between caliper piston face spokes, and firmly seated (do next step right away, to help with this.)

When everything is reassembled, before reconnecting 12 volt negative cable, do multiple depressions of brake pedal to ensure the hydraulic system has good pressure, to (hopefully) avoid codes being thrown.

 

I did this, and overall it was not too bad. You can find my comments/posts for more details.

Take away points:
1) You can find cheap Chinese hubs for as little as $75 each. I used these, and replaced both hubs. I sold the car shortly thereafter, so I can't speak to the longevity of this repair - but with the price differential (and the experience of changing the defective hub once, it'll only get easier if you have to do it again).

2) Hub removal was a BEAR. I bought a slide hammer, and I don't think the slide hammer alone would have gotten the hub out. I also had an air hammer to help pry it out. THank goodness for the Air Hammer. The post that Mendel links to above looks genius to me. If I'd seen that, I think it'd have been much easier to remove the hub.

Hope this helps,
Eric

 

Similar to the threaded rod and nut gizmo in in the link, there's a "special tool" in another part of the Repair Manual, looks kind of like a C-clamp, functions similarly. I'll try to find that.

Ok, here we go:

 

When I did my wife's Prius (2010) last year, the biggest problem was the rust seizure - but we live in NH. Usually, these integrated hubs aren't bad at all if there is little/no rust, and should come of with a little persuasion. When I did it, I had to hit it pretty hard with a 2lb sledge, but after a few whacks it gave out (much fewer whacks than it took to do my daughter's 2003 Echo). It's a straight forward process with integrated hubs because there is no pressing, etc. to separate hub and bearing (but also makes it more expensive).

Go with the Timken - you don't want to do it again because of sub-par parts. When you check it, you may want to check the bolts that hold the hub. Mine was rusted enough that I decided to get new ones from the dealer, and it was not a stocked part, so took a couple of days to get it. You may want to get new bolts regardless just because it's a bolt that takes a lot of stress over time. They're cheap, but I don't remember how much.

 

1. You've got to take off the caliper first, then lift out the pads, then take off the rotor. You might have to take off the caliper support bracket too, for the life of me I can't remember, lol. Just keep everything orgainized, keep the shims on the pad, or if they fall off again, just stay organized, say lay them out on a newspaper. Just be sure to disconnect the 12 volt battery negative lead first, to avoid the system possibly trying to pressurize, while the caliper's off the rotor.

2. Can't remember off the top of my head, but just have a 10, 12, 14 and maybe 17 and 19, you should be fine. Lug nuts are maybe 21?. I use 13/16". Torque on the lug nuts is 76 lb/ft; always torque in a star pattern* and do the locking nut (if present) last. Also, unless you're using an impact wrench, always partially loosen lug nuts before raising the wheel of the floor, it's easier, and avoids shaking the car when raised.

3. Taking the rotor off and then re-installing doesn't necessitate a runout check, I wouldn't worry about it. I've read though: it's a good idea to mark the rotor and backing plate, so that you put it back on in the same orientation (it's possible to put it on 5 different ways). Wouldn't hurt. If you're acquiring tools a a dial indicator and magnetic stand is the main tool for check of runout, they're not too much, maybe $40. But yeah, no real need to do it during a bearing change.

* Watched a Costco employee torguing lug nuts, did not do a star pattern, just went around in order, sad.

 

lug nuts are 21mm/

BION
StarCaller

 

Lug nut is 21mm as stated. Caliper and caliper bracket bolts are both 14mm. Threaded hole for assisting with rotor removal is 8mm x 1.25 I believe. It only took a few hits of my hammer to knock it off so I never had to go that route. You don't have to be concerned with being gentle if you're replacing the rotor anyway. If you're reusing then of course dont go the hammer route.

No sense marking hub/rotor relationship because you're replacing the hub anyway. You MIGHT have a problem with rotor runout if there was a slight relation between the old hub rotor wear, but it's not likely. If there is, just replace the rotors. I personally would use new rotors myself if they are getting worn.

Dont remember hub bolt head size. I do remember that the torque for the caliper bracket is 42 ft lbs and the pin bolts are 25 ft lbs.

 

Mine was $204 OEM shipped to my door two day delivery, and the Dealer charged me 1.5 hours to put it on or $179 with tax.

Dealer wanted $326 with sales tax for the rear hub. Had I bought it there it would have cost me $505. I saved $122 buying the part on line.

I've already had to replace both fronts and the right rear in the last thirty days. The car only has 58K on the odometer.

 

Sounds like mine are coming up too. Prius wheel bearings are not magic either. Might just go ahead and do the shock/struts and brakes while I'm at it.

 

@ALS Sounds like a decent service department, anyway: the labour charge, and that they'll work with your parts purchases.

 

Can you explain a little bit on how to disconnect the speed sensor. The instruction mentions using a screwdriver to disconnect the speed sensor but I have a hard time to unplug it by screwdriver. Any trick there?

Thanks.

 

Can you explain a little bit on how to disconnect the speed sensor. The instruction mentions using a screwdriver to disconnect the speed sensor but I have a hard time to unplug it by screwdriver. Any trick there?

Thanks.

 

I seem to remember it was just a clip that you need to press on, while pulling connector out. Very easy. A pretty standard type connector.

 

Thanks for the reply. This afternoon when I worked on it, I didn't see any clip that can be pressed on. But probably I paid attention in using the screwdriver as manual suggests. I will look into it again. Thank you so much.

 

All these connectors have some sort of flexible tang you need to press, to release the connector. The problems arise because they tend to be pretty small, and the connectors can a have a bit of corrosion gluing it together. Study it closely see what flexes and how. It may take a pick or small screwdriver to get a good push on it. You can also wiggle the connector first, make sure any corrosion glue is broken.

I know the problem, these connectors can be maddening, lol. But much better to get it off before hand, if the bearing busts loose with the connector still in place, it may get torn off.

 

**BIG BUMP**
Sorry Don't want to start a new thread on this, I'm just going to piggyback on this thread.
I'm attempting to replace my right rear hub this coming weekend. So far I have a new Timken hub, new rear rotors & pads. I'm going to home depot tomorrow (wednesday) to pick up a nice long heavy bolt, nuts and washers so I can remove the old hub without headache. I will also be soaking it with some liquid wrench spray. I pray this method works. I don't want to be banging and making noise since i have neighbors and it's "frowned upon" working on cars in the lot. I'd like to do this as quickly and quietly as possible since it will be cold too.

Now from what I've been reading. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, after i replace the pads pump the brakes a few times so the brake piston settles to the operating position close to the pads. reconnect the speed sensor wire and battery and I should be good...
Am i missing anything? Suggestions and tips please!
Thanks.

 

Don’t forget to disconnect the speed sensor first.

There is a plastic cover that protects the speed sensor and is clam shell designed. Go slow as it can be a bit fiddly.

This is a straightforward job and should take about 1.5 hours depending on the level of rust you are dealing with.

Keep us posted .