Would you say the following is full and complete description of the car I'd like to receive? Have I overlooked something either to add or describe? Any guesses about the MSRP? Any suggestions about an MSRP reduction I could reasonably expect? Thank you, Bill. 2016 Prius Hatchback 4/Touring/CX/Red/Black (No exceptions) No dealer add-ons (like floor mats, sealants, strips or guards). No holes drilled for front license plate or emblems. Choice of tires (17 inch) – possible tire swap. Please check about Port Modifications. Would be interested in lowering springs and anti-sway bars. Where is our local port? Possible trade-in, negotiate: 2010 Prius Hatchback4/Silver/Gray/89k miles/very good (Leather/JBL/Nav.). Payment in full/cashier’s check.
i hope so, i haven't tried. some even use the stick on plastic raised letters. drives me crazy. at least the license plate frames are easy to remove.
But not the holes they drill for license plate frames (if you live in a state that does not require front plates, like mine). Then you have to use button plugs.
This isn't the best way to negotiate the lowest price. Dealers get a commission when they finance a vehicle, so when you negotiate, you want them to think you'll take a loan through them. Of course, if he thinks you're a sucker, they'll make everything more expensive. So you tell them you have excellent credit and your bank pre-qualified you. But you're happy to go through their financing if the interest rate is good. You keep this up until after you negotiated the price down.
Nonsense. Dealer doesn't care how you finance. No matter where, they get funded immediately. Finance charges go to finance company, separate transaction, financially. Ask for the reverse beep to be deleted as a condition of sale and don't take no for an answer. It literally takes 2 minutes.
I suggest you read the Customization section of the owners manual and make a list of customization you want in the user interface as a condition of sale, promised by the salesman. If you wait until you already own the car, the service department may well charge you for customization. Unlock all doors at once when you grab drivers handle (or with fob) All the way up or all the way down when you use windows Beep the entire time you are in Reverse or beep once Seatbelt beeping, etc. http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM47A29U/pdf/OM47A29U.pdf Page 752 to 760
The dealer does care how you finance. They get kick back from the financial institution the financing ends up with. The indirect lending department at my bank give the lender 3% of the financed amount up to a certain cap of course. Just FYI.
You are very misinformed. ALWAYS know what interest rate your bank will qualify you for before going to a car dealer. They always add a few points of interest to the loan. It is one of their biggest profit makers: Confessions of an Auto Finance Manager - Edmunds.com
I agree that you should always have pre-approval on financing. Of course the dealer wants you to go through them! It is additional profit for them in the form of incentives. You should get the price nailed down before talking financing. Another thing is the trade-in. If you have a CarMax near you, I'd suggest going there before the dealership and have your car appraised. I wasted some time by not doing that. On the pre-order (wish request) they offered me a trade-in on my 2004 (pkg 3) of $2,000. CarMax offered $3,000. and promised to buy it for that much, in writing. Then, when I went to the dealer to work out the actual sales paperwork, I mentioned the trade-in was too low. I then produced the CarMax form. Suddenly the trade-in was raised to $3,200. It still didn't hurt the sale and there was no haggling. In turn, they are now selling my 2004 and asking just under $8,000. which is over the KBB price.
