Sorry to hear about the engine failure, seems to be more common than traction battery failures. Congrats on the purchase of the v. Hopefully the engine lasts longer this time around. I have 70,000km on my 2012 v, great car.
Congrats on the new v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). I am only at a mere 170,000 on my 2010, so I have a ways to go yet.
170,000 miles on a 2010 is still a TON of miles! Wow. Well, good luck with the new v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). I hope you to get to 500k with that.
Hey all, I just picked up a 2011 Prius with 322k miles. Signed up for the Toyota Owners' website, and it looks like the car has only had an EGR and intake manifold replacement. Runs perfectly, still gives 43MPG on the first two tanks of gas I've used. Throws the P0401 code (EGR) every 50-100 miles or so, but Torque app is able to clear it. Looking forward to finding out how many miles I can get out of this little thing. I "only" run about 20k miles per year, so it'll be a while before I hit 400k. Glad to be part of the club!
I'm at 198,000 Original Brakes and Original everything else. I've replaced the Headlights, Floor-mats & Oil Pan(road hazard).
I'm at 240,562 Original Everything else Only changed Left Wheel Bearing. Would be changing Brakes in a few months Wow!! thats impressive. I hope you got it for a very good deal? I was so scared initially when I got my 2010 with about 220k miles. but i am currently at 240k and going strong.
I searched this thread because Im considering a 2012 v with 150,000 miles for dirt cheap $9000.how the heck do you put 150 on a car in 4-5 years? this thread gives me some confidence.My theory is the traction battery should actually be in better shape than most 2012s because its being constantly charged.If worst comes to worst and the engine goes there are used engines available on Ebay for a few thousand.Theres also engine importers who have low mileage engines from Japan.Not for gen III Prius yet though.
I hope this helps. I've posted a way I fixed my egr P0401 code problem. What I did was, remove the plastic engine over, and you'll see a round black plastic cover to your right, as you're facing the engine. It has a wiring harness going to it, and two Phillips screws. Unscrew the screws holding the cap, then you'll see a cylindrical magnet with a bearing on it, unscrew that too. Make sure you can push the threaded rod in easily and that it returns freely. Clean and oil it if it's sticking. I put a small washer over the threaded rod, in order to increase the travel of the valve. If you look in the magnet with the bearing, there's a small shoulder that gets worn down and restricts, limits, the travel of the valve. I swear, it took me longer to write this than actually fix the issue, it's that simple. It will take three run cycles to clear the code, but it worked for me. Drive fast, take chances...
