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2007 Prius - Brake, Brake warning (!) ABS and VSC lights ON

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by tampaite, Feb 3, 2016.

  1. tampaite

    tampaite Member

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    2007_Prius_ABS_VSC.jpg 2007_Prius_ABS_VSC_PUMP.jpg 2007_Prius_BeforeEngine_Starts.jpg 2007_Prius_AfterEngine_Starts.jpg

    On my way home this evening noticed that Brake, Brake warning (!) ABS and VSC lights are ON(first image)

    I came home, had dinner and then went back to start the Prius and I get Brake, Slip Indicator?, Brake warning (!) ABS, VSC and check engine lights are ON(second image)

    I shut down and re-started and am back to Brake, Brake warning (!) ABS and VSC lights.

    Before starting the engine, the diagnositc check showed battery at 11.9V and after starting the engine, it showed 14.3V

    Still researching this forum but figured i'd post in the meantime.

    Prius is a 2007 Touring model.
    Recently(Sep 2015) replaced the 12v battery with Optima Batteries 8171-767 (DS46B24R) YellowTop.
    The front 2 tires have worn out to the point that am considering replacing them although they still have some life but I can feel that the car is slightly pulling to the right when I drive.

    About 3 weeks ago, I poured about 10 oz of "Chevron 65740 Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner" before pumping gas, haven't noticed any difference in mileage except possible it may have gone down by 2mpg to 3 mpg.

    Other than that, there is no issues.

    Where do I start to troubleshoot ? and is the car still drivable ?
     
    #1 tampaite, Feb 3, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2016
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    start with the 12v. if that isn't the problem, you will need to read the codes. i would be comfy driving it, once i knew the 12v wouldn't crap out.

    how many miles on her?
     
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  3. tampaite

    tampaite Member

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    152K and still on original hybrid battery.

    I don't have the tool to read the codes - apparently, i need to invest in that.

    I feel confident it's not the 12v battery since I can compare to the previous reading(had 10.9V as opposed to 11.9 on this one)

    Is there a way to reset the code or is it time to take it to a dealer?
     
    #3 tampaite, Feb 3, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2016
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you can disconnect the 12v for a few minutes and see if that resets it. but you need to confirm your 12v and get the codes read. 11.9 is a bad battery, unless testing shows that to be incorrect.
     
  5. tampaite

    tampaite Member

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    Disconnected for 5 minutes and same thing - initially, all 6 lights come up and shut down and re-start only 4 lights come up
     
    #5 tampaite, Feb 3, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    we're on to the 12 volt.
     
  7. DRACO

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    A weak battery will play havoc on the ECU and throw those lights. Remove the battery and verify it will not hold a charge. 11.9 is considered pretty weak, the inverter voltage, is normal and doing it's job but it appears 12v is not holding the charge.
     
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  8. tampaite

    tampaite Member

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    Will check it out.

    Was able to drive to work safely. Stopped at Gas station to pump this morning at 7am since it showed only 1 dot in the fuel indicator and I was only able to pump about 5.9 gallons while usually am able to pump about 8 gallons on 1 dot - Thought that was wierd.
     
  9. bisco

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    that is strange, but the bladder shouldn't be a part of the current problem.
     
  10. TheNovice

    TheNovice New Member

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    Go back into the system menu (where you got the 11.9V reading).
    When you're on that screen, press the start button a second time without putting your foot on the brake. Also turn on your lights, demister, a/c, etc. Now you're putting a load on the battery without the engine helping. Check what voltage you're getting then. If it drops, you know your battery is problematic.

    Our battery was reading 12.1V with no load. But once I loaded the battery with lights, etc. it dropped to 10.5V!
     
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  11. tampaite

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    Looks like you've a bad battery - did you replace it yet?

    I checked the battery again this afternoon. On NO load, it fluctuates from 11.9V to 12.3V

    I then, turned ON the headlights, interior lights and A/C and it dropped to 11.7V and never below that. I couldn't turn ON the radio but lights and A/C would have added additional load.
    When I hit the brake pedal, engine would kick-in and it would show 14.4V. So am leaning towards maybe the battery is fine(since it was purchased new about 6 months ago) but perhaps some other sensor is gone wrong?
     
  12. TheNovice

    TheNovice New Member

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    Yeah, we had a bad battery and replaced it.

    Well, tried to replace it. The vent hole wasn't big enough, so I'll have to find one with a bigger hole.

    Strangely enough, the juice given by the new battery for the few minutes it was connected seems to have cleared the fault. I reconnected the old battery, did a 40 mile motorway drive @ 60mph, and the fault hasn't reappeared since!
     
  13. tampaite

    tampaite Member

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    Did you replace with an Optima or Toyota battery?
     
  14. bisco

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    11.9 to 12.3 is not fine for a new battery. it should be 12.7 or better.
     
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  15. tampaite

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    We have another Prius at home and it has the same voltage rating and doesn't have those lights come up. The battery age is about 9 yrs old.

    Ignition: 11.8V and when you engage engine it goes upto 14.3V

    Anyway, am thinking of taking it to the Dealer soon for a diagonostic check.
     
  16. 48mpg

    48mpg Member

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    before paying the dealer give
    Tampa Hybrids Inc a try. they are on US 41 in Land of Lakes Fl (I assume by your name you are in tampa) they are very honest and helpful over the phone..and a lot cheaper then the dealer..you can find their website on line with location and phone number..good luck
     
  17. tampaite

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    Thanks will check them out.

    I took the Prius to the dealer and after paying a $95 diagnostic fee, am told that the following things needed to be done.

    1. Replace ABS Actuator Assembly, R&R and
    2. Bleed the ABS Actuator Assembly, R&R.

    Total price was about $2500

    They gave me two diagnostic code as well
    C1256 - Accumulator Low Pressure
    C1391 - Abnormal Leak of ACC Press.

    Does anyone know what the part numbers are and if $2500 is a reasonable estimate or if I should pursue alternative options?
     
  18. 48mpg

    48mpg Member

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    tampa hybrid was $750 for the brake actuator (used installed) when I thought I needed one..turned out it was a bad ABS sensor wire on the left front wheel I fixed myself...
    do you hear an alarm buzzing all the time? (mine did)
    if your brakes are working and you don't hear the pump running all the time Id question the diagnostic..

    the value of prius is dropping with the cost of gas so I don't think I would invest 2500 into a 10 year old car, im just going to drive mine until the wheels fall off, I gave up trying to sell it for $3500
     
  19. tampaite

    tampaite Member

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    48mpg,

    Thanks for responding.

    I don't hear any alarm buzzing noise although, I just have to depress the brake a bit more than normal and don't see any difference in driving.

    I intend to keep the car for at-least another 5 yrs or so and would like to get this fixed but am just taken back at the high cost.

    How long is the warranty from Tampa Hybrid for the brake actuator - since it's used, probably 90 days? Did Tampa Hybrid run any diagnostics?

    How did you diagnose it was the ABS sensor wire? was it the alarm buzz?
     
    #19 tampaite, Feb 9, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2016
  20. tampaite

    tampaite Member

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    Here is the diagnostic report. Sorry the cell phone camera resolution is low.

    Does anyone know the part number for a 2007 prius for ABS Actuator Assembly ? Thanks.

    2007_Prius_Diagnostics.jpg
     
    #20 tampaite, Feb 9, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2016