Solved, rear wheel bearing removal, easy way

No pictures.

 

No pics

 

I just use the slide hammer with 3 whacks and off it goes,make sure abs sensor wire is off before whacking

 

I only see one pic of wheel bearing

 

Partly depends, I think, on age of car and where driven (road salt used?).

At nine years, I used the slide hammer and about five straight minutes of whacks, for a long time it didn't give any sign it would ever move. Finally did. My arm was tired.

The challenge I'd like to see someone solve is, get the bearing out without damage. For example, if you want to change the brake backplate, but the bearing's ok and you'd rather not spend the $2xx or whatever the price is to replace it.

Of course slide-hammering from the hub side will leave it all brinnelled even if it was ok before, and I'd be concerned the method shown here would do the same.

-Chap

 

OP thanks for posting this. I'll save this for future reference. The only way i see to improve your procedure is to squirt some penetrating oil and grease the bolt (for ease of turning of the nut).

 

Same here, thanks. Seems similar to the use of bolts in the brake rotor's threaded holes.

 

I recently had to break loose the right rear wheel hub. After failing with a slide hammer, I used a pipe wrench + the precisely calibrated tool called "cheater pipe", and liberal use of rust breaking penetrant.

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Very smart! Good job. I'm going to try this

 

I had a slightly different experience with the front left hub. The slide hammer didn't so much fail as the bearing did. So the bearing came apart with the hub still snugly holding onto the knuckle. The hub does look like it moved slightly because the upper two bolts don't drive in as far as the bottom two bolts. Stuck sitting on it until I figure out a way to get that hub off, or hiring a garage to press it out.

 

Seems like the threaded rod approach proposed by the OP is the way to go then?

 

Not so much. The threaded rod approach requires that bit of wheel which the rotor mounts to to still be attached to provide something for the rod to push against. In my case, the slide hammer actually pulled that piece off, so the inside of the bearing and all the balls just fell out. Right now I don't have anything to attach to the piece that sandwiches onto the dust shield. It does seem to be tilted down slightly because of how the mounting bolts go in differently now, so my two best ideas before having to pay someone to press it out would be chiseling and whacking it on all sides with a hammer, or somehow getting another set of bolts I can mount in from the near side and hope they don't strip if I try to mount something to those bolts to get it going... Or maybe with the original bolts going in the back way, I could use a second set of bolts going in from the outside to put pressure on each other.. maybe that would get enough force to push it out? I just don't want to get into a situation where the threading on the holes in the knuckle get stripped.

 

Would an air hammer work?

Wait 103 seconds...

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Maybe, but I'm not sure what to attach it to, aside from just using it to vibrate the heck out of the hub. (Correct me if I'm misusing any vehicular anatomy.)

 

Does anyone know if the 4 mounting holes which secure the hub to the knuckle have threading on the knuckle side of the holes, or is the threading only on the hub side? If the threading is only on the hub side, I might be able to get something in there and use the steering to press out the hub/bearing casing.

 

1. torch it

2. blast it.

3. hammer it.

 

Looks like WAR!