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Gen 1 p3006 issue need some help

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by kmc6566, Dec 2, 2015.

  1. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    Yes I agree. I will wait for the data to prove the bad wire connection. And yes I will also talk to supplier and Dorman customer service to see if something can be worked out.
     
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  2. DRACO

    DRACO Member

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    They probably just checked the cells out of the car and when they rebuilt it, might have used the old bus bar which was the original cause for the rebuild. My very simple deduction, Dr Watson :D
     
  3. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    Just FYI. Also pulled code P3019 now. So if I am understanding all the replies that could make sense. The P3030 and the P3019 and P3006 could all be attributed to the wire connection at block 9. Once I get the cable it would be nice to see the data verify that.
     
  4. DRACO

    DRACO Member

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    Specifically Block 9 based on the sample pic I posted but it may not be the block on your specific situation.

    Once you get the TIS and Mini VCI you will confirm which block is faulty and should be the adversely affecting the block right before it as it is on the sample photo.

    I suggest stop driving the car or you may damage more cells
     
  5. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    Ok, I will stop driving the car. Thanks again for all the help.
     
  6. DRACO

    DRACO Member

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    Just FYI, if it is in fact a fractured or failed sensor (P3030) it will most likely cause an over charge on the next block (P3019) which may cause it to fail and so on. A Domino affect.

    P3006 was your general alert showing uneven charging which led to the above codes.

    A Prius specific reader will determine which one is the culprit/s. Take a screen shot for your proof of failure.
     
  7. Dion Kraft

    Dion Kraft Member

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    I'm wondering what does DORMAN do to check these traction batts? I mean not just voltage checks but they don't install them in a car for a real world test do they - OBVIOUSLY NOT! I'm wondering what their return rate is?
     
  8. DRACO

    DRACO Member

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    Probably just a static state of charge test, if it meets their minimum guidelines, they call it good, slap it together and ship out. Hope for the best.

    I am sure the cost of shipping make most if not all not to return them. 175lbs would be very expensive return freight charge for individuals unless they purchase from a FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store).

    Just my 2 cents.
     
  9. Dion Kraft

    Dion Kraft Member

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    Your probably right about your 2 cents - I mean if this was some styrafoam pillow shipping would be almost nuthin' but shipping is pretty high for this acid brick. If the could testbed each battery I am sure their return rate would be lots less and also would put them into a position to defend their Quaity Control measures. Basically the deal is that even though the test numbers are good that is not the whole basis of a battery which will give no error codes. That is unless they plugged it in..into a real car on a stand. I guess I ask for too much...
    Well no matter what hang in there...I know you will get it....
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Dave Taylor used to drop in on these forums from time to time, so maybe he'll have a response. I suppose it might amount to a gentle invitation to hang your own shingle and demonstrate your better handle on quality control... :)

    -Chap
     
  11. DRACO

    DRACO Member

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    It could be as simple as a loose lead nut on the sensor side, If they are not torques, due to heat cycles they will most likely get loose.

    I remember when my House electrician told me wire nuts can come loose due to heat cycles. I was like WTD, really?
     
  12. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    I bought a cable off Amazon but I can't get it to work to get detail. I know it's a knockoff but I thought I could get it to work. Guess I will take it to dealer to prove it is bad so I can return it.
     
  13. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    I downloaded software and got the cable drivers. But then not sure what to do. It brings up the techs team screen but wants me to register cable. Don't have a key.
     
  14. DRACO

    DRACO Member

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    OP we are trying to help you but you need to help us.

    +1 which Windows are you using?

    As far as your download of the TIS, that is great but you need the bootleg Mini VCI driver program in order to use the TIS as a standalone reader or pay TIS their fee to get a temporary password key.
     
  15. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    Not being difficult. Just give me a minute to get u info.
     
  16. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    Windows vista. That would be 32 right. I believe the cable came with the mini driver program too. There is an .rar file on the cd but can't tried win zip to open and it still gave me an error.
     
  17. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    After upgrading to tech stream 10.x, it asked for registration but ran anyway.

    Bob Wilson
     
  18. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    The techstream version is v10. But I can't seem to get it to connect. What button should I be hitting. Connect to vehicle? Or generic obdii? No matter what I click it asks for key.
     
  19. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Again, 32 or 64?

    How To Tell if You Have Windows Vista 64-bit or 32-bit

    If there are unopened RAR files, you likely haven't completed the installation. I recommend 7zip for all archive handling:

    7-Zip

    Following directions is the key here. You must be able to follow the directions you are given.
     
  20. kmc6566

    kmc6566 Junior Member

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    Ok. Thanks for all the help.