Hi everyone! Well, I've had my 2010 Prius for about 6 months, and I love my car, though there are some issues that I have questions admit, and it's hard to find the right links to figue out my issues, so if y'all could help, that would be great. First and most pressing is my sudden drop in MPG. I just filled up last night, and when I got in today, I noticed that my MPG was around 26, where normally I average between 37-41, depending on how much I'm babying her and milking EV mode, or just opening her up on Power mode. Usually the MPG display is at least a gallon or 2 higher tgan the actual mpg once I fill the tank and do the math. So, I read online that it might be either the 12v getting bad, the spark plugs needing to be replaced, or the tire pressure needed to be adjusted. I usually fill my tire up once a week to 45psi (sidewall says 44), but this thread I found earlier said to lower the rear tires at least 2psi. So I did that and after driving another 30 miles, my mpg only went up to 35. I would like to test the 12v, but my Prius is without a touchscreen, and the only info I can find is for touchscreen access...is there a way to test tge 12v without a touchscreen? My second issue is my passenger side headlight. After I bought the car used, the passenger headlight went out after the first month. I bought brand new bulbs for both sides, but after installing them, I noticed that the passenger side was much dimmer then the drivers side. Then within the first two weeks, the drivers side bulb went out...I assumed that maybe it was just burning too hot. So, I switched tge still good passengerscside bulb into the drivers side, and put the original bulb that was still viable into the passengers side. Well guess what, the drivers side was still brighter...and then that one burned out the next week. I then assumed that the bulbs were old, because I bought them off ebay for a cheap price. So, I tgen went to the local auto shop and bought brand new bulbs off the rack. Again, the passenger side was still dimmer. Well, those bulbs have been finde the past couple of months, but in the past few weeks I've noticed that the passenger side headlight is gathering condendation on the inside. Could it be that because of this condensation its what is causing tge socet to be weak on tgat side? And I bought a vrand new socket,just in case that's so, but is there any way to fix this issue workout sending $500 parts and labor to put in a whole new assembly at the dealership? Could it be a seal that needs adjusting? Lastly, I'm sure some of you who own a 2010 have had the issue with paint chipping and flaking off of the edge of the roof just above the top of the windsheild...I've seen other 2010's around town with this same issue. I'm guessing it might be due to the pressure of the auromatic car wash brushes...is there any way to fix this or do something to prevent further flaking/rusting?
congrats and welcome! how many miles on her? winter gas causes a pretty large drop in mpg's. also tyre pressures go down, so keep those pumped up. best way to test your 12v is get a 10 dollar digital volt meter, pop your hood after parking for the night. in the morning, open the hood and find the jump point inside the fuse box. theres a red hinged cover over it that ops up on the side opposite the hinge. you can find it in your owners manual under jumping the car. put the red tester lead on the metal side of the jump point and the black on any unpainted ground point. do not open any doors before testing.
Thank you! She's got a bit over 153k at the moment. I can understand the dip in mpgs for winter, but this was literally an overnight decrease by at least 14mpg. That's pretty substantial. I just filled my tires when I filled the tank so it mashes no sense that my mpg would be that low, and the previous fill up had me at around 38mpg, but that's including me driving her hard that week and I hadn't filled her tires in almost 2 weeks. After filling the tires and discovering tge 26mog drop today, I let 2psi out of the rear tires, mms after 30 driving miles today, she's now at a little less than 37. And now the passenger light is back on!???
see my edit on 12v testing. what is the passenger light? i'm sorry, did you mean headlight? i can't help with those, but someone will chime in. the spark plugs should have been done at 120k. do you have service records?
Yes, I mentioned the headlight issue in my original post. I have some records, but I don't know if those were done...I could call the dealership and see if the previous owner had those done or not. How do I find your edit on 12v testing?
second paragraph of my post #2. you can go to the toyota owner website and plug in your vin for dealer service history. a lot of things should have been done at 120k.
I filled up that night before, and drove 20-something miles before going home, and noticed the mpg the next day. Today, I'm at a little over 100 miles on that same tank of gas, and the mpg at up to almost 38mpg...I hope it was the tire pressure after all...still going to buy a battery tester and make sure.
First, if there is moisture in your headlights, fix it. Moisture may be prematurely blowing out the bulbs. Second, headlights are not aimed the same straight ahead. The driver side is aimed differently to avoid glare to oncoming traffic. The driver side should appear dimmer than the passenger side. Since they have moisture in them, are they original equipment? If someone bought replacements from Japan then they may be swapped since they drive on the other side of the road. Get the headlights readjusted. Third, my fuel economy fluctuates from 0 mpg to 99 mpg depending on the distance I drive. You'll need a lot longer distance before you can definitively say there is an issue. Like multi tanks of gas, a 1000 miles or more. For example, I drive 50 miles home from work, I'm going to get 65 mpg. Coming back to work the next day, I get 40 mpg. What's wrong with my car? I'm getting 25 less mpg and I am going the exact same 50 miles distance? Answer: Nothing is wrong. My home is at a lower elevation than my work. Plus there is no traffic in the morning so I drive a whole lot faster. Mpg needs to be averaged over a long distance. A single trip doesn't mean there is something wrong. Even between 500 miles tanks, I fluctuate 10 mpg up and down. Fourth, stop babying your car and forcing EV mode. You actually use more gas that way. Follow the tips in the following video to drive efficiently.
Thanks for your input, mmodem. As far as I know, everything is original. When I first got the car, both headlights were actually at the same brightness level, and it was only after the first bulb went out that I noticed the difference. I plan on taking the assembly out as soon as possible and hitting it with a blow dryer to clear out the moisture, and add a silicone seal around the rim. As for your MPG average, perhaps you and I are averaging it differently. Whenever I fill up the tank, I reset the trip odometer. That way, I have an idea of the average MPG I am getting overall for that particular tank, which as I said, averages between 37-41 give or take, depending on how 'm driving. If I am in a bad mood, agitated, or just stressed with shitty traffic, I put her in power mode and floor it...which ends up giving me lower mileage. When I'm conscious and relaxed, I ride her easy, keep my speed at or below the midpoint of the eco meter, and use EV whenever I'm in a reduced speed area, mostly going uphill in residential neighborhoods, etc. When I do that often on a tank, my MPG is usually around 40. I'll check out the video, but I don't understand how I use more gas using electric mode...that just doesn't seem logical to me.
your engine has to run to refill the battery. it's less efficient to convert gasoline to electricity, then use the electricity for motive power, than it is to use gasoline for motive power.
I understand that one of the ways to refill the battery is that the engine has to run...as well as while braking. Can you explain the second mart of your comment? I didn't fully comprehend what you mean.
if you about to embark on a long downhill, it would make sense to us ev as much as possible and let the hill replenish it. but in normal day to day driving, this does not happen often enough, and normal amounts of regen won't replenish the battery adequately, causing the engine to run more.
Thanks for the explanation, Steve. So, I watched the video, and everything that he said is what I have been doing instinctively all along, with the exception of using EV while going uphill for short distances. So you're saying that it's better to use regular driving when going uphill, say for a block or two in a low speed area, rather than EV mode? The car uses more fuel when recharging after depleting the battery than would be used just driving normally? This is my first hybrid, so this is all new to me. Also...according to Toyota, I should be getting 51 city/48 highway, but my average is around 40. Could this be because of the EV driving? Granted, I used AC in the summer, and run heat in the winter, so this takes a big chuck I would guess. Any other tips on running cabin temperature?
are you in eco mode? at 150k you may need some non toyota recommended services like lcv, throttle body/maf cleaning, injectors and etc. tyre brand also makes a big difference.
Okay it's starting to make sense, thanks. It depends..lately I have been driving in Eco mode, but for a while I was running in Power a lot, because I noticed that it seemed to readout similar on the eco meter regardless of which I used, but power gave me better handling and acceleration.
One other thing... deliberate use of more EV or more regen increases the depth of discharge and contributes to a shortened life. The car likes to stay around 60% SoC as much as possible. Drive it down to 40% or charge it up to 80% and you've made a big cycle. And if you're driving a Prius for power, handling or acceleration, you'll never get anywhere near EPA estimates. You need to drive it like a docile mode of transportation the vast majority of the time.
Okay, I have no idea what "lcv, throttle body/maf cleaning, injectors and etc" are...can you elaborate on exactly what I would need to do? I want to make sure I am getting her serviced and updated to keep her running strong and maintaining a high resale value. I have driven it like a hybrid on a whole tank, Steve...like I said, I have had it six months already...the highest MPG I've gotten on a full tank so far was around 42-43. thanks for the other tips. ummm...is that a good thing? LOL
it is if you're trying to increase your mpg's. reduced a/c = reduced battery usage = reduced engine usage = reduced gasoline usage. reduced heat = reduced engine usage = reduced gasoline usasorry pcv not lcv. these items are just some things to look into, if you feel you've done everything you can to increase your mpg's. if you decide to look into them, there are plenty of threads here with diy and pics explaining everything. they do not need to be done as regular maintenance in most cases, although, i think at 150k, some people here will recommend some of them and possibly others as well as a matter of overall maintenance.