Its 3 years and 95K miles on my 2012 Plug in.Here are couple of observations - We live in AZ where summer temperatures are 100 plus and winter is relatively mild. - 85% of driving is highway miles with close to 120 mile commute 3 to 4 times a week ( this include dropping kids to school. Work commute for me and my wife etc). - Highway commute is almost all on cruise control as traffic is very less. Use up EV miles before gets to highway speeds. - Plug in the car twice daily. Sometimes 3 times on week ends. Nowadays I get 9 to 11 EV miles depending on summer/winter, AC, driving speed etc. - Changed the OEM bridgestones to Michelins at 60K. Very happy with Michelins. - Still on the OEM 12v battery. Another surprise considering AZ weather - Just regular oil changes every 10K miles. - Dealer says brake pads are good. May be for another 100k miles. - Worst Mileage : 37 MPG. Non stop 320 mile fast trip
I went with Michelins Premier A/S. Very impressed with them ... Typically I get close to 450 to 500 Miles between fill ups depending on number of plug ins, short trips I make etc. Close to 12 % to 18% are EV miles. Earlier my Ev miles% was higher due to work being closer. I would assume 20K EV miles all together in 3 years. Wanted to ask about anything else I should think of changing or checking? Saw the thread on ATF change. What is the final verdict?
Toyota says it's good for "life". You can change it yourself in an hour or two, for about $40. The sooner the better?
I hope the procedures for changing ATF for plug ins are the same as for regular prius? Will search for a DIY topic on this
I'll give really long odds there's no difference. It's dead easy. A few things not explained in the above attachement: 1. Both fill and drain bolts are socket head cap screw, with a 10mm hexagonal recess. You need something like this: 2. Remove the fill bolt first, just in case you have problems. A 3" or 6" extension helps, and a decent length "breaker bar" style wrench is good to have. Also a torque wrench. 3. Up to you, but access is a lot easier, and the drain will be less messy, if you take the engine underpanel off completely. Just stay organized with the fasteners: there are two a the "oil change" flap that are a little bigger. On our car they have light grey coloured caps. Rinse the grit out of all the fasteners before reinstalling. 4. When putting in the new fluid, it'll take somewhere around 3.5 quarts or liters, so just go slow beyond the 3 quart mark. The simplest, most bullet-proof fill technique is a funnel and hose from above. To get the level right, just ensure the car is level before filling, and when fluid starts coming out through the fill hole, you've got it right. 5. There's an instruction in the attachment to run the car a bit and then recheck the level. This seems onerous and pointless, especially for DIY without a fullblown lift. I did recheck the first time I did ours, there was no change.
