Replacing low-beam bulb

Just curious, did you actually have to disconnect a coolant line, ie: spill a little coolant, introduce air into the system? Or just disconnect an intermediate holder of some sort, shift it over?

 

Yeah you're right. Took a look at the pdf: it's the tube running into the top of the engine reservoir, so looks to be above the fluid level. Crazy though, poor design.

 

No need to disconnect the coolant line. Pull the 2, 10mm bolts holding the coolant bottle, unclip the hose from the air intake tube and swing the coolant bottle up out of the way. The air intake never bothers me once the bottle is out of the way, but if you think that will help it's just the 3, 10 mm bolts that are in plain site, release the ground wire clip and it pulls right off.

Mendel, maybe someday you'll have enough hours on that thing to blow a headlight!

 

I hope not, they're the LED's. When they blow, you might as well throw it away.

 

Sweet, how do like them?

I'm on my third set of the marginal H11's. Think I'm gonna try the H9 mod having been swayed by Xliderider's positive review.

 

They're pretty good. Cool-white light with a fairly obvious cut-off. Good range I think.

 

I disconnect the hose myself, it's fast and easy along with the three 10mm bolts that hold the air intake snorkel.

As far as the passenger low beam bulb, use a small flashlight so you can see the surface of the opening, I believe it's at a slight angle. Then put the bulb assembly in so that the cable connector will end up down after rotating clockwise 90 degrees. This means the bulb's connector will start out at "3 o'clock" and rotate down to "6 o'clock" as viewed from the back.

It might be easier to install without the cable as I believe the cable is barely long enough. Then plug in the cable after the bulb assembly is rotated in.

Finally, if you need to, take the easier driver's side out to verify the bulb assembly orientation needed to start it and the direction to rotate. And do both low beam sides at the same time or you will be back at it in a month or so, perhaps after a police warning or ticket. Also wear disposable nitrate or vinyl gloves to avoid touching the glass on the bulb itself. Skin oil will cause early failures.

By the way, the earlier Gen 2 design is much harder on some of the bulbs where it is recommended to take out the whole headlight assembly.

 

Whatever you do, after you mount the bulb, always verify that the bulb is not mounted crooked. Housings have melted from improperly mounted bulbs.

 

The bulbs go in the same way on both sides, base pointing toward 3 o'clock, then turn clockwise to 6 o'clock.

 

As an aside, stay away from the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra H11 low-beams.

My OEMs lasted for nearly 15mos after I purchased my (used) 2012 v Three. When they expired, I replaced them with the Silverstar Ultras. For the next year (as long as O'Reilly was replacing them free under warranty), the Ultras went out every 30 days like clockwork.

The Ultra warranty went out in October, and I went back to Toyota OEMs. Still going strong after about 7 weeks, so fingers crossed.

 

New I hope not, they're the LED's. When they blow, you might as well throw it away.