1500 Watt Emergency power outlet?

In a low-demand situation, wouldn't the catalytic converter cool off to the extent of being ineffective much of the time the engine is running?

 

The control laws do not let that happen that I have observed. In contrast, diesels have such low exhaust temperatures at low power that they can cool the NOx/SCR too much.

One obscure fact is a three-way catalytic convert actually generates heat. Oscillation between rich and lean means there is an exothemic set of reactions going on. This is the last bit of waste heat that needs to be captured.

Bob Wilson

 

Or a Firebrid

 

Thanks, Bob! 44 hours of runtime at 1000 watts for the Prius, according to your chart. That's hard to beat.

But I wouldn't think the catalytic converter would reduce the carbon monoxide. I'd never run the Prius inside a closed garage. Instead, I'd back it out, if I need emergency power for the house. I'd like to find a short hose which I can hook to the exhaust pipe (which seems to run very cool compared with most cars, because the ICE is cycling on only when needed). But looking on Amazon or eBay, those flexible hoses are EXPENSIVE! Anyone have suggestions on what I might use instead?

 

This will fit perfectly since they lowered the floor!

 

We're in Japan and have got the standard Toyota 1500W outlet in our Alphard hybrid.

It's a handy thing to have, but I don't think it puts out the full 1500W for very long. I've got a small electric chainsaw with that rating and there was a noticeable drop in power compared to a normal outlet.

We have experienced an earthquake and having a generator was very useful in setting up lighting in the house and running a vacuum to clear up broken glass. Our power was out for two days in total.

 

This is perfectly reasonable as our resident submariner, @ETC(SS) can confirm:

We have a car port open on two sides so there is no practical accumulation of exhaust and the car is typically 5-10 yards away from the kitchen door. We do have a carbon monoxide detector and for the safety it provides (assuming it still works after 10 years!) a small electrical load well worth the piece of mind. However, I notice newer combined smoke and CO detectors with battery backup which makes a lot of sense. I replaced our smoke detectors earlier this year and found they claim to have a permanent, 10 year old battery.

As for cheap exhaust tubing, I suspect a dryer, aluminum flexible duct material would work. Given it would be only needed during a power-outage, it would be a cheap fix. Making a port in a wall or the garage door would be the bigger expense. But you've got me wondering:

• What is the temperature of Prius exhaust?
• Is there enough heat to boil water and cook food?

Bob Wilson

 

Concur.

LOL

Excellent questions!

 

Ok, so now you're building a microCHP.

You would probably want some sort of exhaust-to-liquid heat exchanger. Oh wait, Gen 3 already has one, right?

-Chap

 

With the on off engine cycling, I don't think the heat supply would be steady enough for cooking. Now, if you were using a non-hybrid for power, that won't be a problem.

With the hybrid, I'd look into solar ovens. Won't boil water, but will get hot enough to pasteurize it.

 

For non-hybrids, someone actually wrote a cookbook (with the awesome name "Manifold Destiny")!

 

There are also 'pots' sold that attach to the muffler or manifold of snow mobiles and other small vehicles for cooking.

 

Hi Bob, if you have a port with two open sides, then you are essentially outside! We have an enclosed two-car garage. So I either need to move the Prius out, if the motor is running, or figure out some way to port the exhaust.

Just having the garage door open - I discovered - is not enough! My wife warmed up a car in the garage during winter with the garage door fully open, and after she left, the CO detectors started singing, starting with the basement one. That woke me up - I had gone back to bed because I was feeling a bit ill and had a headache! Symptoms of CO poisoning! I didn't realize it at the time. But when I woke up to the sound of the CO monitors blaring, and called the gas company, the first question they asked me was whether a car had been idling in the garage. It seems with the cold outside air, the CO did not disperse from the warmer garage, but got sucked into the house, starting with the basement. (This was during winter.)

My CO monitors say to replace them after ten years - new batteries aren't enough - they stop detecting CO after so many years. Be safe.

I have a hand-held laser thermometer and measured the exhaust pipe of the Prius for a short time while sitting. I don't remember the numbers now, but it was relatively cool, due to the cycling on and off of the engine. I can measure it again to give everyone some numbers.

merged

When I was in China, I stayed with a poor family which used a fair sized concave mirror aimed at a large teapot. That mirror brought the water to a full boil in about 15 minutes!

 

Something reduces it, though I don't know enough to separate the catalytic converter from better engine management. CO has been a listed test item on local emissions tests, and my household's cars have usually passed with very wide margins.

This CO reduction has been substantial enough that this method of suicide, running a car in a closed garage, has become unreliable. With newer cars, many people have survived such attempts unharmed.

Though as your next post illustrates, that general improvement hasn't been enough to make it safe. Garages should have some natural ventilation to the outside. Dwelling units still should be air sealed and protected against garage fumes, not just from vehicle CO emissions, but also from fumes and evaporation from the common hazardous substances that many people (im)properly store in their garages.